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Redi strip co. Does industrial cleaning metal dipping. Not the product. My father was the Forman of the franchise headquarters in roselle il. For 35 years. I grew up there. Non acid dipping. If he is looking for just cleaning that's the place. They have many locations. Don't know how many still do dipping but the one in roselle il. Still does. They did many many cars for high end resto shops.
Acid dipping is not the way to go it can cause multiple problems after the paint is on.
I'm pretty sure there is also a place in the Detroit area.
Check for places in your area on the interweb.
Redistrip looks interesting. I went to the website. I put in a request for estimate on a frame after reading this thread. By the way I've heard bad things about acid dip not completely neutralizing and causing rust problems but sounds like this company uses something other than acid.
Last edited by Gary M; June 19th, 2016 at 05:52 PM.
I was lucky and got to do all my cleaning for free there. But all my engines where cleaned there before machining and no machine shop could touch how clean my blocks where inside and out. When i dropped stuff off they always asked who cleaned em as i have used various machine shops. I actually restored my car there and had shop privileges up until my dad retired.
Restoration specialist looks good too. Hope your friend gets what he needs. The people on This site sure help. I'm looking into all these suggestions for my project.
I've used them for the W-31 resto and some pieces on the GT-37. when the GT-37 gets it's frame off, I'll use them again.
RSI e-coated the items I dropped off. $1000 to do a frame. It gets inside the frame rails.
I've used them for the W-31 resto and some pieces on the GT-37. when the GT-37 gets it's frame off, I'll use them again.
RSI e-coated the items I dropped off. $1000 to do a frame. It gets inside the frame rails.
What is E coating? Is that like the coating you get on parts shipped from overseas or is it a finished top coating that is durable?
Only one place does it in the midwest and they are in the Detroit area. Restoration Specialist sends everything from here to them.
If you have the frame dipped have it e-coated the have a rustproofing place coat the inside of the frame before you topcoat.
In the auto body industry we use " factory pack " E coatings. To duplicate the factory e coats in trunks and underhood areas. Typical ecoats that come on aftermarket panels is cheap and very very thin. A good e coat will last a long time on a daily driver car on a restored car i would assume much much longer as exposure to daily elements is minimal. Just my observation.
I have used Redi-Strip since the 80's for industrial paint stripping on screw machines and car parts galore. About 10 years ago, they did my whole 1969 Camaro z/28. They use an Alkaline Solution which doesn't attack the metal but will eat away all of your rust, body filler, and seam sealer. when you get your parts back from them, there is a light coat of rust preventative but it won't last too long. I use Metal Prep to clean it off and prepare the metal for painting. The only issue to be aware of if you do the entire car is trapped chemical in some of the seams. This can leak out into the paint if you paint it right away so it is better to wait a while so all of the trapped chemical can dry up. Most seams are in out of the way places anyways (like in your trunk) so it not as big of an issue as some guys say it is, just beware. You will be adding seam sealer to these areas anyhow before you paint. Your old car will look like fresh stamped metal!
I dont recommend acid dipping any parts with spot welded seams unless you ecoat them. I have used acid dipping since the 80s.We have done this and cut apart the pieces ,everywhere the pieces overlapped there was surface rust between. I have seen acid dipped bodys leach rust from between the overlaped sheetmetal a year after it was dipped. When Ecoated it goes in a 11 step dipping process each process being differt rust preventive chemicals w,hich gets between all the overlapped sheetmetal and completely eliminates ALL the rust. The last step being Ecoat which completely gets between and in side all the panels. The company in Detroit does OEM ecoating for the Major car manufacturers.
Greg
its actually EDP as in electronically deposited primer.. and they just abbreviate it to E-coat..
think powder coat but no powder..they hook a ground to the parts on the belt and positively charge the gun..and shoot as a liquid..it goes around corners and into cavities and is baked to cure..all computer driven now
at least thats what they explained to me 20+ years ago..when i painted cars for a living...that was forever ago...i admit
powder coaters can reprodouce e-coat..its close but not exactly the same..but pretty close with todays product..
acid dipping is a big problem..ive done it,will never do it again.ever..it weeps put of cavities for a decade...theres no way to stop it...i dont care how good you try to neutralize it, its like rust..it never sleeps...
i ruined 2 doors and a decklid for my 66 NOVA i paid 500 each panel for, from texas...absolutely rust free stuff..shipped it in..dipped it..and 4 years later...it ate thru the corners...just no way to get in and stop it...it got between the inner structure and door/trunk skins and just ate its way thru...at one time, i thought i was a pretty competent body man..i made a good living doing wreck and resto work...done with dipping..forever
Last edited by marxjunk; June 26th, 2016 at 03:45 PM.
I agree with Greg and Mark on this. I've used a metal stripping company for just certain projects, but never anything with spot welded seams and difficult to get to pockets inside a panel or body structure. ~BOB
June 19th, 2016, 05:18 PM
