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The mini one I bought appears to be mainly for computer connections like 22 AWG. I could have sworn I saw a review or Q/A that stated it was good to use on Packard 56's. Guess not. Too many choices and things to look at.
I have the Sargent Crimper tool and they are very versatile. They cover 5 sizes and are simple to use. They may not be as impressive looking as the other ones, but they will work. I have crimped thousands of connectors with mine and they are still in great condition. These are mine after 25 years, one of the stereo shops I worked at required every stereo to be installed with Molex style connectors so at least 19 connectors each vehicle. Quite a few more most of the time.
I have just been crimping the Packards and weatherpac with whatever I can make work and then soldering. There are so many crimpers and didn't want to invest in ones that won't work.
The correct Packard 56 crimper will crimp both the wire tabs and the insulation tabs at the same time. I've bought about a half dozen different crimping tools, with limited success. I finally got one of the expensive tools with interchangeable jaws and bought the Packard 56 jaws. MSD sells a version of this, available at Summit, Jegs, etc.
Wanted to buy today, so i decided to try this dirt cheap unit that appears to do both Ins Grip and wire at the same time, and goes to 16 AWG, probably the largest I would use anyhow.
One thing I have noticed with using the ratchet type crimpers, of all types, is that once they are crimped, that is it. They will not get any tighter. I have seen too many factory connectors that were loose. With the Sargent style you can simply grip it tighter or move to the next size smaller and re-crimp to get it tight. I have done this even to the factory P-56 connectors. Like I said, they are not as impressive looking but they have never failed me. LIke Joe, I have used many different types and sizes of crimpers from electric and hydraulic to hand held and sometimes the simple tool works best.
Originally Posted by cjsdad
I have the Sargent Crimper tool and they are very versatile. They cover 5 sizes and are simple to use. They may not be as impressive looking as the other ones, but they will work. I have crimped thousands of connectors with mine and they are still in great condition. These are mine after 25 years, one of the stereo shops I worked at required every stereo to be installed with Molex style connectors so at least 19 connectors each vehicle. Quite a few more most of the time.
I bought a racheting crimping tool and separate jaws so I could crimp spark plug wires and electrical connections. It was less than $75 for everything and it works just as good as the fancy name brand one I use at work.
One thing I have noticed with using the ratchet type crimpers, of all types, is that once they are crimped, that is it. They will not get any tighter.
That's intentional. There is a specified crimp shape that has been engineered and tested. Overcrimping can be as bad as inadequate crimp force, as it can distort the metal and result in an inadequate joint. Improperly crimped factory terminals either didn't squeeze all the way down. or used the wrong size jaws. Also keep in mind that the jaws are designed for factory-thickness terminals. Aftermarket terminals with thinner metal won't crimp correctly.
anyone know what they are for? It says Harleys and such. I have never seen the mating terminal or such a terminal used anywhere.
The Packard 56 Die Set at Summit is a mere 32.59 free shipping today!
Actually more at Amazon, $40 delivered.
I guess I should get that in case joe is right. If Joe is wrong, I get $10 back anyhow! Let's see, the last time that happened...
I went ahead and ordered the $33 die set.
Let's see, because I am a stickler for detail and like to have the correct tool, so far this one tach wire has cost
$20 for 100 ft of the right color wire
$23 for the wrong crimper, sending it back
$-15 if the take it back
$20 for another crimp tool
$33 for proper dies
$20 in gas to run out to the car and back three times so far...
That's the thing about electrical connectors, there is a different crimper for everything and they aren't cheap. See if there is an aircraft surplus supply in your area, you'll be surprised at what you might find. Also just as in the video there is a pin extractor for all the different connectors also.
These are the three I have, and crimp up to #10. They came out of Delphi here when they closed - A local guy had them for sale on ebay. They still turn up regularly on ebay and seem inexpensive. Watch for cracked heads. I use them mostly for Molex style pins which have the same crimp and strain relief, as well as GM stuff. The large T&B while not exactly correct works great for large lugs on the horn relay stud, starter lug or as in my vintage, the hydraulic motor supply wiring.
Huh, well, the B-die crimper arrived today, not one chance it will crimp the terminals I have nor will its puny girly frame accomodate the proper jaws on order from Summit. Pics below.
However, I did find among my tools at the work site a crimper that does look manly enough to take the Summit die set. Almost there. Sheesh what a huge PITA. I almost wouldn't mind spending over $100 for a proper set IF the seller could assure that they actually work on the proper terminals.
The Summit proper? Dies arrived today, here shown next to the girly tool sold as a crimper by others. If these dies do not fit my manly crimper then the quest is not over. We shall see.
I've found that to crimp the thick-wall terminals, I often need to "start" the wings in the right direction before using the crimping tool. Coldwar shows the real Packard crimp tools, which carry K-M J-numbers. Those are the gold standard, but I have yet to find one for under $150 or so.
Of course, I've probably spent more than that buying cheap crimpers...
Packard 56 is the type of terminal, however the one you chose is not for that awg size.
I could not figure out what you guys were talking about.
Now I see... the above link is to a Packard 56 terminal for -12- AWG wire.
The purpose of the link was to show the general shape and type of the Packard 56 to those, like me, who are not aware that is the name of that type terminal. As opposed to Weather-pack, Metri-pack, etc.
I did not actually procure THAT exact product, I have some LIKE that product which I would like to properly crimp.
So, now I have to carefully track the size range of the terminals too.
Is there any way to discern from looking at a loose terminal as shown above what its AWG compatible wire is?
Evidently the only way out is to just order the $500 kit that has a tool and lots of all sorts of terminals and housings.
So, anybody need a 70-72 W30 intake? Not sure which exact type it is.
:-)
"Of course, I've probably spent more than that buying cheap crimpers... "
FAST approaching that
Crimper at the buy n sell store 10
ratchet crimper maybe 10 long ago
SUMMIT dies $32
too-small unit $7 or so after I get a refund
other too-small unit $20
These type of terminals have a mil-spec as most were developed for the aircraft or military applications. There are specific dimensions and crimp tolerances for each wire size. These can be found on the manufacturers or venders web site. The ratcheting crimpers are designed that way through thorough testing to enable the best crimp for that particular devices application. In the aircraft industry, crimpers have to go through periodic inspection and testing to ensure they are still in spec. Using a manual single crimper for double crimp terminals is ok for the hobbyist, but I assure you they are not crimped within the spec for the application of that terminal. Will it fail? Who knows, I would not want to bet my life at 30000 ft on one.
Here is a vender (I have never used them) that lists the terminal and if you click on the description will list the crimper and handling tools. It also lists them by awg size. Again these type of crimpers are not cheap. http://crimpsupply.com/packard-delphi/packard-56
These type of terminals have a mil-spec as most were developed for the aircraft or military applications. There are specific dimensions and crimp tolerances for each wire size. These can be found on the manufacturers or venders web site. The ratcheting crimpers are designed that way through thorough testing to enable the best crimp for that particular devices application. In the aircraft industry, crimpers have to go through periodic inspection and testing to ensure they are still in spec. Using a manual single crimper for double crimp terminals is ok for the hobbyist, but I assure you they are not crimped within the spec for the application of that terminal. Will it fail? Who knows, I would not want to bet my life at 30000 ft on one.
Here is a vender (I have never used them) that lists the terminal and if you click on the description will list the crimper and handling tools. It also lists them by awg size. Again these type of crimpers are not cheap. http://crimpsupply.com/packard-delphi/packard-56
Which goes up to 10 AWG wire/terminals.
$60 is not all that expensive.
I am there already in tools that range from not quite correct to very incorrect.
Thanks for that link!
I am somewhat familiar with proper crimps, attaining the proper crimp, and testing by inspection and pull force. FxSCO motors /Gxxnie had a garage door motor burn a house down due to a poor crimp. They got picky after that. I did some pull tester development there.
That looks like it will work for you. This thread reminded me I need to replenish my stock of PIDG terminals. Now I need to find an inexpensive source.
That should work, but the jaws I bought have openings for three different size terminals, not two. And of course, the fact that the title of the ad says "NOS" doesn't mean that this is a GM or Kent-Moore crimper. It's a Chinesium frame just like the one I got. It will work fine, but don't be mislead by the words.
I joined this forum just to say that this thread has been extremely helpful to me. I'm restoring a 1968 Camaro and am doing an LS1/t56 swap but trying to integrate factory type connectors where I can. Lots of good info here!!
I joined this forum just to say that this thread has been extremely helpful to me. I'm restoring a 1968 Camaro and am doing an LS1/t56 swap but trying to integrate factory type connectors where I can. Lots of good info here!!
Depends on what you want. I tried one of those before I got the MSD jaws that I use now. Not as good as the correct jaws. This crimper only does one of the two crimps at a time as opposed to the correct ones that simultaneously crimp the conductor and insulation tabs. You pays your money and you takes your choice...
Depends on what you want. I tried one of those before I got the MSD jaws that I use now. Not as good as the correct jaws. This crimper only does one of the two crimps at a time as opposed to the correct ones that simultaneously crimp the conductor and insulation tabs. You pays your money and you takes your choice...
Just a blue-handled version of the ones I have been using for over 25 years and thousands of connectors. They are not as purty or as sophisticated as many of the proprietary crimpers I have but they are dead reliable.
Originally Posted by cjsdad
I have the Sargent Crimper tool and they are very versatile. They cover 5 sizes and are simple to use. They may not be as impressive looking as the other ones, but they will work. I have crimped thousands of connectors with mine and they are still in great condition. These are mine after 25 years, one of the stereo shops I worked at required every stereo to be installed with Molex style connectors so at least 19 connectors each vehicle. Quite a few more most of the time.
Just a blue-handled version of the ones I have been using for over 25 years and thousands of connectors. They are not as purty or as sophisticated as many of the proprietary crimpers I have but they are dead reliable.
I can't tell if your crimpers have the stepped crimp feature or not. The onese on ebay do not - the jaws are not thick enough. The MSD jaws that I have are much thicker and if you look at the photo closely, you will see that each of the crimp openings has two levels - to simultaneously crimp both the conductor and insulator tabs. These are two different diameters due to the thickness of the insulation. Yes, you can make two separate crimps to get the same result. It's more work, more time, and less precise.
Joe, Will the msd 35051 spark plug wire crimp jaws work on smaller spark plug wires than 8.5? I have 8 mm wires on most stuff and would think it would still be fine. I have 7 mm stuff on my tractors and wondering if it would still work?
That is like trying to use a 7/16 wrench on a 10mm nut. It will turn it but won't tighten it properly. The 8mm crimper will crimp the terminal on the 7mm wire but it won't be tight enough. If you ever need to pull the plug wire off it may simply pull the wire out of the end connector.
I understand that but not seeing where they make jaws for the smaller wires. I did not know if they made the others in a way to do both. I would assume not but thought I would ask.
