I have a 67 CS with 330 HO. It comes with a stock Q-jet. My choke has been giving me all kinds of headaches so I swapped carbs with an electric choke setup.

I have a carburetor from a cadillac #7045230 that my friend is looking at for me. The concern is the jets are 62s and rods are 34 and he feels this will make the carb run rich as the book calls for jets to be 59 and rods to be 36

Should I not worry about the jets and rods, maybe it'll run good?

Should I go with an aftermarket solution (edelbrock apparently has a sale right now).

Any help would be much appreciated,

Cheers,

 

That should be from a 1975, which was probably a big inch engine. You could rebuild it with a good quality kit and change the jets and rods which will get it to idle and run correctly for your engine.

Or, you could fix the choke on your original 67 Q-jet and rebuild it. I am not famuiliar with the 67. Does it use a spring choke stove on the manifold or the hot air tubes like later years? Is the electric choke on the Caddy carb or on your original?

 

Hi Joah - welcome to the site. You may have some work to do on the carb anyway to get the right linkage, and changing the primary jets and rods, and the secondary rods and hanger is easy. The "book" probably will not give you the exact numbers for that carb anyway since it is not a standard application.
Some 75 carbs had a funky primary power setup that is not highly recommend - not sure about the 7045230.
I would go to Cliff Ruggles site and ask him - there is a section for questions, and he would be better able to advise you.
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/

 

What kinds of headaches? Seems like fixing the choke would be a lot easier than reconfiguring a whole carburetor.

- Eric

 

Thanks for your responses gentlemen,

The original choke setup is a hanger coming out of the intake.

I havn't noticed any responses towards Edelbrock, maybe I want to stay away?

The biggest contention I have is the throttle linkage. As mine has a throttle lever that hooks into the carb, the cadillac has an eyelet that hangs onto the linkage. Anyhow, we were thinking of swapping out the bottom shaft.

At any rate, thanks again,

 

Are you saying that the original choke rod has been replaced by a coat hanger, or that you have a "divorced choke" with the bimetallic coil in a pocket in the intake manifold, and the rod from that coil sort of "hangs" there when disconnected from the carburetor?

And what about it, exactly, is giving you a headache?

We want to help, but can't do so without information.

- Eric

 

Concerning Edelbrock....I recently ordered a 1406 (600 with electronic choke) to replace a holley that was giving me fits. Bolted on straight out of box , adjusted idle, and havent touched since.

 

Concerning a q-jet....I recently rebuilt a 7042250 with a new electronic choke to replace a holley that was giving me fits. Bolted on straight out of box , adjusted idle, and havent touched since.



to each his own

 

Now that I think about it I have to second Eric's questions. Putting a new carb on there can be done, but is more work than fixing a choke.
You said you have already swapped carbs, putting one on with an electric choke. Is that carb not working correctly?
If you get a new(refurbished or new) carb whatever you buy is going to need tuning to match your engine.

 

The Edlebrock AVS carbs are nice. They have great tech support and the carb is very tune able with their spring/rod kit. Just get the right CFM carb if you do go that route. Of course nothing beats a well tuned Q-Jet and you wouldn't have to mess with the throttle cable choke set up etc...

 

How about an NOS QJet for your car?

pm me if interested

If the choke is the only trouble, maybe just fix that?
Worst case, a new choke coil is under $100 I believe

 

A properly rebuilt Q-jet or a properly calibrated new carb should both work reasonably well. If either PROPERLY (right application, jet/rods, no vacuum leaks etc.), rebuilt or new don't work, it usually means something else is the problem. Carbs frequently are the first parts blamed.

A new after market is a lot more expensive than properly fixing the original.

 

I rebuilt a 77 Qjet with a kit from Cliff Ruggles (who is not a fan of the Edelbrock "one size fits none" carbs) and got 21 MPG highway on an otherwise stockish 72 Cutlass 350/350, 2.56 rear. Both early and later carbs have adjustable part throttle screws that can be accessed with minor modifications and used to make life easier.

 

i wouldn't waste my time dinking around trying to get that caddy carb. to work. the calibration is totally different and you'll waste a ton of time and $$, and probably still not be able to get it to run as it should. rods, jets, bleeds, restrictions, power piston spring, throttle linkage...

just fix the choke on the one you have-you'll be miles ahead.


bill

 

Sorry...he asked about edelbrock in a post...just gave an opinion that answered his actual question.

 

Ok guys, I am so pleased with everyones enthusiastic responses. I really wish I could provide you with more information. I have a friend who is going to rebuild my carb. We are not going to mess with the caddy carb. Rather we are going to rebuild a q-jet that is off a 307, it has the proper linkages, and the choke works. It just needs a float adjust.

Now the only other concern is the vacuum advance is not ported on the carb but rather on the manifold. I have an electronic distributor on the ol girl now, maybe just hook her up on the manifold (just behind the carb).

Cheers,

 

One other thing to remember, you have an ST300 Switch Pitch trans, the switch is attached to the bell crank on the throttle linkage. The adjustment is kinda finicky, so make sure your linkage is adjusted properly.

 

k thanks,

 

So your choke has been giving you all kinds of headaches, but you can't provide us with more information.

If you can't give any information at all about the "choke" problem, then how do you know that the problem was even the choke?
Maybe the problem had nothing to do with the choke.

I fond threads where the poster brings up a question about a specific problem, then refuses to give even basic information about that problem to be more than frustrating.

- Eric

 

Why can't you?

Just make sure that 307 carb isn't a CCC carb, because if it is you can't use it.

Not sure what that's supposed to mean. If you want to run ported vacuum to your distributor, then just hook it to the ported port on the carb ( almost all carbs have one ). If you want to run manifold vacuum, hook it to a manifold vacuum port on the carb or intake. Easy.

 

My intention is not to frustrate you. I am being as sincere as possible. It's a choke problem because the choke sticks, I have to bang it down with a hammer (ok maybe not that bad heh heh). Then I changed it with an electric choke and it worked ok but I was getting improper fuel mixture (blue exhaust). Then I felt like banging with the hammer, but I controlled myself and removed the carb again.

I'm going to make an effort to keep you posted with my progress. I'll be picking up the 307 carb this evening and installing tomorrow.

Cheers,

 

A can of GumOut is usually more effective on a sticking choke than a hammer.
Did it stick open or closed? (I know it should be "closed," but around here we never ASSume).

Blue smoke is usually considered to indicate burning oil; black smoke is from running too rich.

Why not just spend $12 and install a manual choke if the original is totally screwed up?

- Eric

 

Joah, I think you are overthinking everything. If you're getting 'improper fuel readings' when you installed the electric choke, then just rotate it! It should be set so when the engine is fully warmed, the choke flap on top of the carb is fully opened.

 

The fault is not that I am over-thinking, rather that I am not properly thinking. I wish I could spend a sufficient amount of time savouring my hobby, yet I am constantly rushing doing 1000 things in my day. This is the problem which I understand and I hope you can understand as well.

My carb did need a rebuild, I want to understand what's happening. This is why I chose not to go with the bolt on edelbrock. I want to have a moment of reverie in my day where I can see what is happening inside my carburetor.

Also, I wish to share my vision with my peers,

Cheers,

 

Excellent!

I would recommend spending $30 at NAPA on a rebuild kit and a float, reading over the appropriate chapter in your Chassis Service Manual a couple of times, and rebuilding your original carb.

It's not hard, and it'll probably make a world of difference.
If you screw it up, then you can use the 307 carb as a Plan B.

- Eric

 

307 carb. as in chebby 307?


bill

 

robinson-analyticals-307-ci-olds-made-434-hp-on-the-cheap_zps2a775fa6.jpg

 

That's quite a 330.

- Eric

 

so THAT'S what is behind curtain number 1!


bill

 

Here is the write-up on it. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...e/viewall.html

Cheers,

 

So it's a picture of a 307 that was built by a car magazine, not a picture of the 330 you are asking us questions about.

Please forgive my confusion.

- Eric

 

I was replying (with a thousand words) as per the 307 chevy.

Yeah, my 330, it idles and revs nice but on the highway it stutters for a milisecond. I'm gonna hook up a fuel meter to it and see if it's getting enough pressure at the carb.

Cheers,

 

So just a bit of threadomancy,

I brought my car to a garage and after a compression test, informed me that the entire left bank of my engine was dead (with 55 psi in #3 and about 75 psi in #1,5,7).

Rather than pull the heads off while the motor was in the car, I bought a mystery engine from someone online. They dropped it off with a promise that it turned, and it was a strong runner. I gave them $250.

I was going to install it but it was seized at a quarter-turn. I had it set in the car so I hoisted it back out (opting not to try and turn it with the starter.) I put it on my stand and squirted the cylinders and let it sit for a couple hours.

http://s209.photobucket.com/user/Joa...1660a.mp4.html

My son and I checked all the bearings by removing and torquing all the caps.

I then proceeded to place the engine in my car. When we started it, there was the loudest hammers of Hell coming from the engine BANG BANG BANG and my heart sank once again. It wasn't until later when I youtubed some crank noise videos that I realized the guys had to place their phones close to their motors to hear the noise. You could hear my knocking from across the street, and then I thought maybe, just maybe the pan was dented.

The next morning I looked and sure enough, there was a goose egg dent at the very front of the pan. No problem, just crawl under the car and take the pan off. No fn way dude. Slowly and painfully I had to remove all the assembly and hoist that motor clear up to remove the pan. Bash out the dent and start it over again.

This time there wasn't any noise and it purred really nice. Until I got the bright idea to adjust the valve train with a dowel. It didn't take me long to figure out that the rockers on an oldsmobile are torqued tight and that's that. All along, there was Hells blue smoke pouring out of the engine, making my heart sink once again with the fear of shot rings.

I torqued all the valves, sealed the covers and left it for a day. Then when I finally, got a new rad (broke the last one fixing the pan), I started it and lo and behold it ran really nice.

6-weeks of Hell, and I've drove it around town a couple days (babying it, havn't pressed the accelerator once from my mechanical trauma ...

I gots problems with the rochester evaporating the gas after a couple days of sitting.

My transmission shift cable popped out and I lost the u-clip, i had to settle for a retaining ring that seems to be holding ... my bracket only has one eyeled ...

Edmonton-20130828-00195_zps4119ddac.jpg

Probably broken, and my flashers conveniently stopped working.

Cheers,

 

The Qjet could be leaking through the well plugs, you could try JB Weld on them. What filter are you using? If it is the factory style, the check valve should be stopping drain back. What engine did you go with, an Olds 350? I have found the non CCC Canadian 307 carbs to be calibrated lean. Check your plugs after driving a few miles, white means lean, tan or brown good.

 

Oh those are very good tips. I learned a lot about the 350 oldsmobile engine whiles I slaved in the metallic mines for the past 6-weeks. For one they are all the same with a variation of the deck height.

Yeah the oldsmobile engine is getting to be a rarity up here in Edmonton Alberta Canada. There were only two on kijiji (craiglist). The one was a heirloom that had been sitting with some 85000 km, but it was for $650 and he believed it would still be a good thing to overhaul it. When I saw the add for $250 and the young kid was convinced that it was good to go, I took a chance and went with it.

We jetted the ports one size bigger and the well plugs (under the carb at the front) have been epoxied.

The fuel filter is inside the carb (as recommended by my carb mech).

Thanks for the reply,

Cheers,

 

As mentioned the core plugs are usually the culprit in the older Q-Jets. Another problem is excessive heat soak. If the carb gets hot enough after shut down the gas will boil out. Especially with today's excuse for gas. Install an insulator under the carb and or install heat riser crossover block offs in that system. It will be cold blooded but that's the trade off for a cooler running engine.
Lastly as mentioned is the siphon-back effect from the air horn to the pump if there is a leak or missing components. Personally I pull the plug out of the in-carb filters. It causes fuel starvation in my engine. I dont mind the extra cranking time after it sits because it gives the oiling system ample time to get at the entire block IMO

 

Ok thanks for the info, now if only there was an easy fix for my flashers not working ;P

 

You need to follow your wiring schematic for your signal lights, and do a logical troubleshooting analysis.

Do the brake lights work?
Do the 4-way flashers work?
Do the parking lights / taillights work?
Are all your light bulbs good, sockets good, properly inserted into the sockets, and grounds good?
Is your 4-way flasher button pulled all the way out?
Have you checked both the 4-way flasher and the signal light flasher (plugged into the pigtail up on the left side of the dashboard)?

- Eric

 

Ok thanks for the troubleshoot guide. Wouldn't the flasher light on my dash stay on if the bulb was dead? Nothing. Is you 4way flasher pulled all the way out? i think so, do other lights work yep.

Will the 4way flasher affect the regular flashers? hmmm, lots of theory, better get to practice ...

Cheers,

 

If the 4-way switch is pulled part-way out, all sorts of things may not work right - it needs to be all the way in or all the way out.

If you have a bad signal flasher, the 4-ways should still work fine and vice-versa.

Yes, the lights should just stay on and not blink if a bulb is bad, but there are no guarantees.

If all the lights (including brake lights) work properly, that eliminates a few things.

- Eric