New VIN sticker...
#1
New VIN sticker...
So I ordered a repop VIN sticker right after I bought my Cutlass, and not realizing it was actually supposed to have the VIN printed on it, I stuck it on the door blank (doh!)
After doing some research I realized my folly. So I ordered two more blanks (just in case I trash one while trying to print the VIN).
Well, I'm happy to report that my first attempt at printing was successful, and here is the result. I am quite pleased with how it came out😀
After doing some research I realized my folly. So I ordered two more blanks (just in case I trash one while trying to print the VIN).
Well, I'm happy to report that my first attempt at printing was successful, and here is the result. I am quite pleased with how it came out😀
#3
A regular laser printer. But first I taped the sticker (with the backing still attached) to the center of regular piece of 8 x 11 1/2 paper. Then I typed the VIN and the lettering on the computer and kept printing it and holding it against the sticker, adjusting the spacing accordingly until it lined up on
the sticker. Once I got it where I wanted it, I put the piece of paper (the one with the sticker taped to it) and printed the VIN on the sticker. Mind you the ink won't dry very good on the sticker, so be careful handling it and when you apply it to your door. Once you get it stuck down, just carefully put the clear adhesive cover over the sticker that comes with it, and you're good to go😀
the sticker. Once I got it where I wanted it, I put the piece of paper (the one with the sticker taped to it) and printed the VIN on the sticker. Mind you the ink won't dry very good on the sticker, so be careful handling it and when you apply it to your door. Once you get it stuck down, just carefully put the clear adhesive cover over the sticker that comes with it, and you're good to go😀
#5
#7
Didn't you leave something out? There is no date "shown above" as the sticker says there should be. The month/year of manufacture should be in the upper right next to "Corp."
These are often called the "Nader Sticker" after Ralph Nader. Here's the one on my '78 Toronado. It was a different color by then, but it says the same thing, and there actually IS a date of manufacture "above."
Here's a sticker similar to yours but WITH the date of manufacture shown. It also has the vehicle weights. Should that be on your sticker as well? The weights are also on my car's sticker above.
These are often called the "Nader Sticker" after Ralph Nader. Here's the one on my '78 Toronado. It was a different color by then, but it says the same thing, and there actually IS a date of manufacture "above."
Here's a sticker similar to yours but WITH the date of manufacture shown. It also has the vehicle weights. Should that be on your sticker as well? The weights are also on my car's sticker above.
#9
Didn't you leave something out? There is no date "shown above" as the sticker says there should be. The month/year of manufacture should be in the upper right next to "Corp."
These are often called the "Nader Sticker" after Ralph Nader. Here's the one on my '78 Toronado. It was a different color by then, but it says the same thing, and there actually IS a date of manufacture "above."
Here's a sticker similar to yours but WITH the date of manufacture shown. It also has the vehicle weights. Should that be on your sticker as well? The weights are also on my car's sticker above.
These are often called the "Nader Sticker" after Ralph Nader. Here's the one on my '78 Toronado. It was a different color by then, but it says the same thing, and there actually IS a date of manufacture "above."
Here's a sticker similar to yours but WITH the date of manufacture shown. It also has the vehicle weights. Should that be on your sticker as well? The weights are also on my car's sticker above.
#10
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
After doing some research I realized my folly. So I ordered two more blanks (just in case I trash one while trying to print the VIN).
Well, I'm happy to report that my first attempt at printing was successful, and here is the result. I am quite pleased with how it came out😀
Well, I'm happy to report that my first attempt at printing was successful, and here is the result. I am quite pleased with how it came out😀
#11
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Your manufacture date is on the cowl tag. One of the members here (Jason) TK-65 makes these stickers and also reproduces window stickers. They look very much like the sticker that would have been on your car when it went to a showroom.
#12
Gotcha...where do I get the GVWR from?
#14
That's the beauty of it...the ink doesn't dry right away. If it's not right, you can just wipe off the ink and try again. Although I wouldnt advise doing that too much, but a couple tries won't hurt...trust me.
#15
#18
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The font is wrong and too large. Have you considered printing a test strip with a grey tone for the information you're using? I'd like to see the link to that GVWR you got, it looks too light for a 72 Cutlass.
#19
Allan, the weight info was a PDF file called an "info kit" for 1972 Oldsmobiles. I found it by searching for "1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme front rear weight". Once the results pop up, it's the 4th one down.
#20
#22
In the pictures of the originals the vin numbers are perfectly aligned each letter directly below them. Also it looks like the spacing between the two lines is too big. Maybe single space instead of double. Yours is close but not 100%.
#23
#24
#25
#26
Times New Roman is not a tyerwriter font. If you want it to look like a typewriter, what you want is "Courier." Both are "serif" fonts. The common non-serif ("sans serif") font is Arial.
#27
What year is the poster's car? 1970 only had date of manufacture and the VIN.
#29
#30
#31
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Dave,
Correct me if I'm mistaken but I believe this is the source of your research?
If that's the case, your VIN calculations on the door sticker for GVWR are not correct.
CURB weight is the car with built in standard features and maybe a gallon of fuel for delivery. That does not include extra options like AC//PDL/PS/PB/AT/L75/ FE2/ N10 (Factory RPO's - search your 72 SPECS booklet) etc which adds up in a hurry.
GVWR on the other hand includes EVERYTHING including the weight of passengers, full tank of fuel, and cargo. Assume that your average person weighs 160 lbs (likely more) and that cargo would be around another 150+ lbs. Now add the total weight and you get 3499 + 640 + 150 + (fuel) 120 + options (guesstimate 300-400 lbs) = 4809
If I take the ratio of 1964/3499 and 1535/3499 I get 56% and 44% respectively which should be the weight (axle) distribution. If you assume your car is a GVWR of 4809, that would break down as follows: Front GVWR 2693 and Read GVWR of 2116 These numbers I've posted are hypothetical based on what I remember your car has for options.
Does this help?
Correct me if I'm mistaken but I believe this is the source of your research?
If that's the case, your VIN calculations on the door sticker for GVWR are not correct.
CURB weight is the car with built in standard features and maybe a gallon of fuel for delivery. That does not include extra options like AC//PDL/PS/PB/AT/L75/ FE2/ N10 (Factory RPO's - search your 72 SPECS booklet) etc which adds up in a hurry.
GVWR on the other hand includes EVERYTHING including the weight of passengers, full tank of fuel, and cargo. Assume that your average person weighs 160 lbs (likely more) and that cargo would be around another 150+ lbs. Now add the total weight and you get 3499 + 640 + 150 + (fuel) 120 + options (guesstimate 300-400 lbs) = 4809
If I take the ratio of 1964/3499 and 1535/3499 I get 56% and 44% respectively which should be the weight (axle) distribution. If you assume your car is a GVWR of 4809, that would break down as follows: Front GVWR 2693 and Read GVWR of 2116 These numbers I've posted are hypothetical based on what I remember your car has for options.
Does this help?
#32
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#33
Dave,
Correct me if I'm mistaken but I believe this is the source of your research?
If that's the case, your VIN calculations on the door sticker for GVWR are not correct.
CURB weight is the car with built in standard features and maybe a gallon of fuel for delivery. That does not include extra options like AC//PDL/PS/PB/AT/L75/ FE2/ N10 (Factory RPO's - search your 72 SPECS booklet) etc which adds up in a hurry.
GVWR on the other hand includes EVERYTHING including the weight of passengers, full tank of fuel, and cargo. Assume that your average person weighs 160 lbs (likely more) and that cargo would be around another 150+ lbs. Now add the total weight and you get 3499 + 640 + 150 + (fuel) 120 + options (guesstimate 300-400 lbs) = 4809
If I take the ratio of 1964/3499 and 1535/3499 I get 56% and 44% respectively which should be the weight (axle) distribution. If you assume your car is a GVWR of 4809, that would break down as follows: Front GVWR 2693 and Read GVWR of 2116 These numbers I've posted are hypothetical based on what I remember your car has for options.
Does this help?
Correct me if I'm mistaken but I believe this is the source of your research?
If that's the case, your VIN calculations on the door sticker for GVWR are not correct.
CURB weight is the car with built in standard features and maybe a gallon of fuel for delivery. That does not include extra options like AC//PDL/PS/PB/AT/L75/ FE2/ N10 (Factory RPO's - search your 72 SPECS booklet) etc which adds up in a hurry.
GVWR on the other hand includes EVERYTHING including the weight of passengers, full tank of fuel, and cargo. Assume that your average person weighs 160 lbs (likely more) and that cargo would be around another 150+ lbs. Now add the total weight and you get 3499 + 640 + 150 + (fuel) 120 + options (guesstimate 300-400 lbs) = 4809
If I take the ratio of 1964/3499 and 1535/3499 I get 56% and 44% respectively which should be the weight (axle) distribution. If you assume your car is a GVWR of 4809, that would break down as follows: Front GVWR 2693 and Read GVWR of 2116 These numbers I've posted are hypothetical based on what I remember your car has for options.
Does this help?
#36
I was able to get a sticker made for my 442 convertible. Bob was not crazy about doing more because of the pain in the *** factor.DEFINITELY Not worth it.,
the font is as correct as possible to OEM
the font is as correct as possible to OEM
#37
Here's what my car is equipped with:
L75 455 engine
TH400 transmission (column shift)
Air conditioning (not comfortron)
Remote driver door mirror
Power driver seat
Tilt wheel
JL2 brakes
N10 dual exhaust
G80 anti spin differential
L75 455 engine
TH400 transmission (column shift)
Air conditioning (not comfortron)
Remote driver door mirror
Power driver seat
Tilt wheel
JL2 brakes
N10 dual exhaust
G80 anti spin differential
Power steering
How can we determine the added weight?
How can we determine the added weight?
#38
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#39
It doesn't. It just shows all the options that were available. All the various combinations that could have been ordered means that few cars weighed exactly the same amount.
But you know what? WHO CARES? Put whatever numbers you want on the sticker. Who would ever question them? Who, besides you, would ever know that they weren't exactly correct?
But you know what? WHO CARES? Put whatever numbers you want on the sticker. Who would ever question them? Who, besides you, would ever know that they weren't exactly correct?
#40