When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That motor will be around 9 to 1 compression, even less when you put on new head gaskets, too low for that cam. It is a very aggressive grind without much lift, power brakes will be marginal with it. Cutlassefi can recommend a cam more suitable, I have a 9 to 1 Olds 350, my cam is 214/214 duration from him, it works and is well mannered. I would also run a 2000+ stall converter, the factory 1600ish stall sucks.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; August 29th, 2018 at 04:40 AM.
Thank you for that. I had been talking with Lynn at Mondello and he stated the improved ramps solved those issues, but I will make sure he understands I am not running AV Gas and 10.5:1 pistons before I buy one. I would like power brakes, and it to take off when I goose it, but I don't want any rattles or pinging or run-on. I like the rumble of the W-30 and W-31 but not enough to have it be unusable above idle. I will do more research and checking. Thanks again!
Yeah, don't use that vendor. Consider an LS drop in and have much more of everything. I am a consistent person, I don't put Chevy engines in Oldsmobiles, and I do not put Olds engines in Chevrolets.
You need to find out what differential ratio you have. Lower (higher numerical ratio) gears will make the most difference. They also affect gas mileage. You won't be happy with the W-31 cam 3.26 or higher (lower numerical number). Get a valve job done and replace springs.. How much money do you want to spend ?
A real W-31 cam is 308/308 advertised duration. It won't make enough vacuum to operate power brakes, A/C, or other vacuum operated systems. If you are building a driver (or actually plan to use your truck as, you know, a TRUCK), you do NOT want this cam. As noted talk to cutlassefi on this site for a cam recommendation, given your equipment, gears, and intended use. I assume you know you will need the correct Olds motor frame mounts. 1978-88 A/G body and 1977-1990 RWD B/C body with Olds motors are donors. Note that unlike other Olds mounts, these are RH/LH. Use Anchor 2328 motor mounts with these frame mounts. Also, your TH200 trans will not survive for long behind a 350 motor.
Thank you for that. I had been talking with Lynn at Mondello and he stated the improved ramps solved those issues, but I will make sure he understands I am not running AV Gas and 10.5:1 pistons before I buy one. I would like power brakes, and it to take off when I goose it, but I don't want any rattles or pinging or run-on. I like the rumble of the W-30 and W-31 but not enough to have it be unusable above idle. I will do more research and checking. Thanks again!
I would LOSE that source in Pasa Robles !!!!!!!! Bernard Mondello is in Corona, CA and is reputable. Cutlassefi on this site is a very good source of information.
Looks like he already has a BOP TH350, just needs more stall. It could be a TH250 if original, look for the dreaded adjustment stud near the cooler lines. I had a good high mile TH250C loose first gear, first time out behind a 403. I would bet it has more like a 2.26 gear, I believe 2.41's were common behind the 3.8. As said either the above frame pads or something like the 403 Trans Am will be needed to fit an Olds motor in. I had two Olds powered chebby trucks, way better than either original sbc 350. Same reason, I love the SB Olds V8.
One of favorite cars was an ‘82 El Camino that I dropped a Tune Port in, with a 700r4, among other mods.
First, loose Lynn’s phone #
Seriously consider an LS swap for this project, and either way you’ll want to source a v8 fan shroud, radiator, and an aftermarket trans cross member setup for dual exhaust.
Keep us updated on the swap, and good luck
Yeah, don't use that vendor. Consider an LS drop in and have much more of everything. I am a consistent person, I don't put Chevy engines in Oldsmobiles, and I do not put Olds engines in Chevrolets.
You need to find out what differential ratio you have. Lower (higher numerical ratio) gears will make the most difference. They also affect gas mileage. You won't be happy with the W-31 cam 3.26 or higher (lower numerical number). Get a valve job done and replace springs.. How much money do you want to spend ?
Seems to be the universal advice. I have an automatic with stock converter and high ratio gears. More though and a lot more research needs doing. I have limits on my budget or I wouldn't worry about dioing whatever makes it sound and go better. Thanks for the advice
Looks like he already has a BOP TH350, just needs more stall. It could be a TH250 if original, look for the dreaded adjustment stud near the cooler lines. I had a good high mile TH250C loose first gear, first time out behind a 403. I would bet it has more like a 2.26 gear, I believe 2.41's were common behind the 3.8. As said either the above frame pads or something like the 403 Trans Am will be needed to fit an Olds motor in. I had two Olds powered chebby trucks, way better than either original sbc 350. Same reason, I love the SB Olds V8.
I have checked it all out. It is NOT a Chevy V-6. I can tell the difference. It is a TH350 so if not the original, in 38 years I can imagine the weaker trans died and they upgraded...but not to a 700r4. The engine lugs along at 60 so you are probably right it is high ratio .All good information and I have some deciding to do, but the budget is limited and that will drive a lot. Olds 307/350 motor mounts from a G Body year will work fine
Looks like he already has a BOP TH350, just needs more stall. It could be a TH250 if original, look for the dreaded adjustment stud near the cooler lines. I had a good high mile TH250C loose first gear, first time out behind a 403. I would bet it has more like a 2.26 gear, I believe 2.41's were common behind the 3.8. As said either the above frame pads or something like the 403 Trans Am will be needed to fit an Olds motor in. I had two Olds powered chebby trucks, way better than either original sbc 350. Same reason, I love the SB Olds V8.
SBC are fine for 90% of so called restorations, and all hot rods, but I will NEVER put one of them in ANY car I own. The last El Camino Meet I attended had LS motors, and Crate motors galore and they almost all had the cowl hood. If nothing else mine will have the sound I like and the smoothness of the engine I like and it will be more unique than all of the exactly the same Malibus, Monte Carlos and Chevelles. Since I plan to drive it, not tow it and shine it, I want driveability as much as anything else. More horses are not better to infinity. I only need enough horses to get it around, do some occasional pulling and hauling, and sometimes floorboard it to clear out the gunk! Thanks for all the interest in my project and advice!
You came to the right place. No sbc for me in anything ever. Same goes for the LS, it is very weak down low, not my cup of tea. A Gen 5 V8 is massively better but also a much harder and many more dollars swap. Go with Cutlassefi's recommendation for a cam, also new rockers, bridges and pushrods. What carb are you planning?
Since I have to go with an Edelbrock intake I thought the 4bbl they recommend would have to do it. If I had my druthers, I would get a stock 4bbl intake and a q-jet. Love when the back barrels open and the hood dents in! I had really good success with them in the past, but they need a better mechanic than I to run right. Again since I want function more than low ETs I am open to suggestions.
Last edited by Chuck Cole; September 11th, 2018 at 11:38 AM.
Either get a custom tuned Qjet, 750 Street Demon with a tuning kit or a 750 Quickfuel Slayer carb also with tuning parts. Edelbrock carbs have had many issues. Any of those carbs I mentioned will bolt on the Edelbrock intake. The 2711/3711 Performer or RPM intake will work with your motor, the 3711 needs the thin adapter plate with square bore carbs.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; August 30th, 2018 at 08:23 PM.
I found a local source for a refurbished Qjet jetted for the W30 Auto cam for $345, a little more with the electric choke. Supercars Unlimited recommended the W-30 Cam for automatics, since most of the W-30's in 70 were AT vs MT. I have not contacted Cutlassefi as yet. I am trying to find a machine shop locally I can trust to do the work. So the Edelbrock Performer looks more my speed for intake...Not going up in RPM at all
Listen to Cutlassefi and you will be a happy camper. If I were building an engine he would be the guy I would go to. He has a great reputation on this site.
First, forget anything Lynn told you. Second, forget you ever heard of Lynn at Mondello in California you will be time, money, and sanity ahead
As for the 350, if a complete overhaul isn’t in the budget, pull the heads, have them milled. Reassemble with thin head gaskets. Replace the timing chain, install a good rebuilt AND recalibrated Q-Jet, and either replace the dreaded 200 trans with a 350, or even better a 2004r. Put some 3.42-3.73 gears in the back, and steer the front end with the steering wheel, and the rear end with your right foot. Have fun!!
It looks right to me...the 455 is so much more than a 454 besides one cubic inch! Olds should have had a Camaro/Firebird car. It briefly had Omega/Nova/Sprint/Apollo. The T/A with 403 should not have been called Pontiac!!
It is in the rework stage now, actually still in the back of the El Camino until I get a hoist to put it on the stand. I will get the heads off first for machining and install of the bigger valves and all new parts. The lower end seems good with good cylinder differentials, It spins freely. I intend to debut it in May, so it is a Winter project.
I've already had more good information here in a month than the Chevy blogs in 18 months. I must have missed the bus somewhere, because all they do is yank an engine and replace it with a crate engine, forget about the matching numbers, the need for a computer and 32 sensors to make it run. I kind of feel if I wanted the newer technology I would have bought a car in those years not go as far back as I can go with little to no smog stuff. The smogged Olds V8s are a sad foretelling of their future at GM. Personally I would have kept Olds over Pontiac and Buick, since the 70's Cutlasses were #1 in sales for most of the decade. FWD in Olds other than a T-Nado was absolutely ridiculous. People like my dad wanted Oldsmobile, not some cookie cutter GM derivative. When any division engines started showing up, he was done with Olds. His last new Olds was a 74 Delta with the highest rearend imaginable to get it to nearly 20 mpg on the highway. You could time it with a Sundial 0-60. His last GM car was a 78 Cadillac, with an Olds 425. In all he had a 64 Cutlass, 65-98, 68 442, 69-98, and 74-88, add mine; 2 x 63 Cutlass, 67 Vista Cruiser, 67 Cutlass, 67-442 Convertible, 75 Toronado, 95 Aurora and you could say we were an Olds family. So If I must drive a Chevy, it would have to be powered by Olds! I always thought GMC should have used Olds instead of Chevy. Torque is what trucks needs, not RPM hp
chebby guys may hate you, but your my hero!!! How does it run?
Just shy of 500 HP, 570 torque on the engine dyno.
It's a real fun little sleeper, it's the Berlinetta model so doesn't even have a cowl hood to give anything away. The Z28 boys can get right pissed off when a) they get beat by a "ladies Camaro" and b) even worse it's rocket power lol
Last edited by Grumbler; September 10th, 2018 at 12:08 AM.
Reason: sp
It is the little joys we all can use. Today's Chevrolet is nothing like Chevy from 1970 until Obama! Their whining is obscured by the deep rumble of a blueprinted Olds! Dr. Oldsmobile, the Rocket V-8 and the RAMROD 350 are still alive and well!
Last edited by Chuck Cole; September 10th, 2018 at 03:50 PM.
did you check rockauto I got a remanned quickratio A body one that bolts in and uses the same hoses as original about $200 they may have a g body one as well
This is not my car! At least I am
not putting on a Cutlass front clip and STILL using a SBC! On mine, I don't know what the wheels were supposed to be on but they were on it when I got it. I will probably not replace them but at some point the front tires will go a size down and the rears a size up. The Olds engine should make up for the weight lost when the previous owner savagely ripped out the A/C components. If that gives it a little rake I will not change tire sizes. It can only be a Cutlass if it has a Rocket V8, Right?
Last edited by Chuck Cole; September 13th, 2018 at 05:23 PM.
Reason: Misspelling
This is not my car! At least I am
not putting on a Cutlass front clip and STILL using a SBC! On mine, I don't know what the wheels were supposed to be on but they were on it when I got it. I will probably not replace them but at some point the front tires will go a size down and the rears a size up. The Olds engine should make up for the weight lost when the previous owner savagely ripped out the A/C components. If that gives it a little rake I will not change tire sizes. It can only be a Cutlass if it has a Rocket V8, Right?
GM of Canada didn't think so. The only Cutlass that came with Olds engine's were the Hurst/Olds, 442 and 88 Cutlass, basically US cars. All the rest except B through E? bodies had either Buick 3.8 or sbc powered. That is why I bought my 88 CSC.
My 1963 Cutlass 215 4bbl 4 speed 441?
August 29th, 2018, 04:38 AM
Good information!
It is the little joys we all can use. Today's Chevrolet is nothing like Chevy from 1970 until Obama! Their whining is obscured by the deep rumble of a blueprinted Olds! Dr. Oldsmobile, the Rocket V-8 and the RAMROD 350 are still alive and well!
.
