394 tear down
#1
394 tear down
Well I finally got to stripping this Starfire,now to the engine.
She been punched 20, mains and journals down 10. Its locked up and the heads have a fair amount of rust. I think the heads are good for a boat anchor.
What do you guys think?
She been punched 20, mains and journals down 10. Its locked up and the heads have a fair amount of rust. I think the heads are good for a boat anchor.
What do you guys think?
#4
I think after hot -tanking , bead blasting , surfacing , new valves , and guides .
They will be just fine , as long as they aren't cracked .
Don't write them off .
I need a few small items , I will PM you .
#8
#13
Ready to split trans.
So didnt have a engine crane, so made a Ukrainian engine crane.
394 on the stand
Sludge in the pan
Inside looks clean
So figured before I pull apart, give her a wash.
So didnt have a engine crane, so made a Ukrainian engine crane.
394 on the stand
Sludge in the pan
Inside looks clean
So figured before I pull apart, give her a wash.
#16
Well started cleaning one of the heads today with electrolysis. Turned out well I think, head looks a lot better
Old rubbber maid container. Hot water and 2 cups of washing soda. Some old chicken wire laying around, wrapped along the outside.
Negative hooked to the head, positive to the chicken wire, making sure not touching the head.
With in an hour with this process.
Pulled head out, washed it. Big difference.
The corrosion collecting on the chicken wire.
This is hour 2.
Working really well
2 hours total so far
Looks alot better.
About 7 hours total. Head compared to one not cleaned yet.
Looks like can be reused.
Negative hooked to the head, positive to the chicken wire, making sure not touching the head.
With in an hour with this process.
Pulled head out, washed it. Big difference.
The corrosion collecting on the chicken wire.
This is hour 2.
Working really well
2 hours total so far
Looks alot better.
About 7 hours total. Head compared to one not cleaned yet.
Looks like can be reused.
#19
So, 'splain a few things to me. What is "washing soda" ? The chicken wire is around the sides and not contacting the head ? Did you use a battery charger ? If a battery charger, what volts and amps ?
#20
Is 2 types of baking soda. The stuff you cook with, and the stuff you wash with.
Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, washing soda is sodium carbonate. You can turn baking soda into washing soda very easy. Place on a cookie sheet, cook in oven for half hour@400. Then you have washing soda.
Yes the chicken wire seems to be working very well. I tried just rebar, didn't work as well.
So now I wrapper the chicken wire around the rebar. Was using 1 charger, a 10 amp. Have another and figured try 2. The second 1 is a 6 amp.
Every so often, unplug and wash the anode off. It gets corroded and amps drop.
The positive charge on the anode pulls the rust. Need a space between the anode and part you are removing rust from.DO NOT put positive on the part you want clean, will turn into a rust block.
Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, washing soda is sodium carbonate. You can turn baking soda into washing soda very easy. Place on a cookie sheet, cook in oven for half hour@400. Then you have washing soda.
Yes the chicken wire seems to be working very well. I tried just rebar, didn't work as well.
So now I wrapper the chicken wire around the rebar. Was using 1 charger, a 10 amp. Have another and figured try 2. The second 1 is a 6 amp.
Every so often, unplug and wash the anode off. It gets corroded and amps drop.
The positive charge on the anode pulls the rust. Need a space between the anode and part you are removing rust from.DO NOT put positive on the part you want clean, will turn into a rust block.
#22
This is about an hour from this am. Still had rust in the ports from yesterday.
Placed both heads this time on 2 pieces of wood facing down so rust will be pulled out of ports.
2 anodes, one on each side placed in opposite corners.
Battery charger on each one. DO NOT touch any of the anode or water while the chargers are plugged in. Hate to see what would happen.
Placed both heads this time on 2 pieces of wood facing down so rust will be pulled out of ports.
2 anodes, one on each side placed in opposite corners.
Battery charger on each one. DO NOT touch any of the anode or water while the chargers are plugged in. Hate to see what would happen.
#24
If you are not in a hurry to remove rust from an object, and most of us have this stuff laying around. So far I only had to buy a box of baking soda, cost me 3 dollars.
Very cheap!!!!
Very cheap!!!!
#28
Youre welcome. YouTube has alot of info on this as well. The 394 I have is locked up, I will dip the top half in and try this method to free the cylinders.
I will build a bigger tank, using a 500 gallon water tank and use heavy fence panel as an anode. I can treat fenders a rear panels. Nice thing with this, will get to the rust where you normally cannot. Oil treat or prime right away, rust free.
I will build a bigger tank, using a 500 gallon water tank and use heavy fence panel as an anode. I can treat fenders a rear panels. Nice thing with this, will get to the rust where you normally cannot. Oil treat or prime right away, rust free.
#29
Youre welcome. YouTube has alot of info on this as well. The 394 I have is locked up, I will dip the top half in and try this method to free the cylinders.
I will build a bigger tank, using a 500 gallon water tank and use heavy fence panel as an anode. I can treat fenders a rear panels. Nice thing with this, will get to the rust where you normally cannot. Oil treat or prime right away, rust free.
I will build a bigger tank, using a 500 gallon water tank and use heavy fence panel as an anode. I can treat fenders a rear panels. Nice thing with this, will get to the rust where you normally cannot. Oil treat or prime right away, rust free.
You might want to make the bigger tank from a NON metallic material, otherwise the whole tank would be an anode. Think safety. Sheets of 3/8" PVC would be my suggestion to construct a tank. Most of the "plating shop" tanks I have seen were NOT metallic.
Perhaps think about submersing the front half of the engine. then the rear half. You'll remove rust above and below the piston rings. Then you can pop all the pistons out and have clean cylinder walls to evaluate.
...just my two cents worth
#30
You might want to make the bigger tank from a NON metallic material, otherwise the whole tank would be an anode. Think safety. Sheets of 3/8" PVC would be my suggestion to construct a tank. Most of the "plating shop" tanks I have seen were NOT metallic.
Perhaps think about submersing the front half of the engine. then the rear half. You'll remove rust above and below the piston rings. Then you can pop all the pistons out and have clean cylinder walls to evaluate.
...just my two cents worth
Perhaps think about submersing the front half of the engine. then the rear half. You'll remove rust above and below the piston rings. Then you can pop all the pistons out and have clean cylinder walls to evaluate.
...just my two cents worth
I dont want so submerge the crank side of the block yet.
#31
AH, the ones they use for sprayers and transporting. I was visualizing the steel "stock tanks" for watering livestock. Makes sense to me now.
Have you experimented with Dawn dish soap in the washing soda/water solution ?
I was thinking that submersing one end of the engine would avoid air pockets in the cylinders, as compared to setting it on the intake surface (top).
#33
How about using the square totes that company's use for liquid product transport, see them for sale around here for 100 bucks and less with the outer steel frame. I'd cut the top off and try that.
Steve
Steve
#37
#38
Mate with a 5 speed and drop in a late 30's olds.
As for the 77, have a shell down in Wisconsin waiting to get picked up. Cant get down there to get it, been trying to hire some 1 to pick it but no go yet