4 post lift
#1
4 post lift
I just bought a new 4 post lift for my garage/shop. It’s to be installed 6 July.
Now Im looking for ideas on how to lift both front wheels off the ramps at the same time.
I know that I could buy a rolling bridge jack but I would like to build something that is safe
I’m sure some of you guys have come up with something you have built.
Please share your ideas
Now Im looking for ideas on how to lift both front wheels off the ramps at the same time.
I know that I could buy a rolling bridge jack but I would like to build something that is safe
I’m sure some of you guys have come up with something you have built.
Please share your ideas
#2
As an engineer, my knee-jerk reaction to this is "the rolling jacks are DESIGNED to work with the four post lift safely." Are you a mechanical engineer? Do you plan to run the structural numbers to ensure safety? Do you have the structural info on the lift where you plan to interface this new jack structure? Do you understand load concentrations and fatigue?
The reality is that I just don't get four post lifts for any service work other than oil changes for exactly the reasons you are facing.
#3
Joe I also have a 2 post lift that I have been using for a number of years.
My thoughts initially is that I will use a couple of 2x2 10 gage steel tubes spanning across the 2 ramps with hydronic jacks in proper positions to lift the vehicle.
To answer your question No I’m not an engineer of any sort. I’m just a guy that likes to do crap if I’m able. Having been an A&P mechanic with my IA endorsement, I’ve gotten along for my 70 years with out killing myself or anyone else yet
if anyone has built what I ‘m asking about l would appreciate your input p
My thoughts initially is that I will use a couple of 2x2 10 gage steel tubes spanning across the 2 ramps with hydronic jacks in proper positions to lift the vehicle.
To answer your question No I’m not an engineer of any sort. I’m just a guy that likes to do crap if I’m able. Having been an A&P mechanic with my IA endorsement, I’ve gotten along for my 70 years with out killing myself or anyone else yet
if anyone has built what I ‘m asking about l would appreciate your input p
#4
As an engineer, my knee-jerk reaction to this is "the rolling jacks are DESIGNED to work with the four post lift safely." Are you a mechanical engineer? Do you plan to run the structural numbers to ensure safety? Do you have the structural info on the lift where you plan to interface this new jack structure? Do you understand load concentrations and fatigue?
The reality is that I just don't get four post lifts for any service work other than oil changes for exactly the reasons you are facing.
The reality is that I just don't get four post lifts for any service work other than oil changes for exactly the reasons you are facing.
Four posts are good for oil changes and re-adjusting or fitting an Exhaust system... also for extra storage but not for a lot of other automotive needs!!
#6
Also as an engineer, recommend you buy the accessory from that 4 post lift vendor that will let you do that, both for your safety and maintaining their liability if something happens.
That being said, a bottle jack right behind each front wheel with a large plate under it to spread the load might work. Do not forget the plate, you could put that jack base right through the track otherwise.
That being said, a bottle jack right behind each front wheel with a large plate under it to spread the load might work. Do not forget the plate, you could put that jack base right through the track otherwise.
#7
Just yesterday I replaced a transmission seal under my 4-post. Also nice to lift a body from its frame.
That said, it's time for me to get a 2-post for the adjacent spot. Agree on their superior utility.
That said, it's time for me to get a 2-post for the adjacent spot. Agree on their superior utility.
#8
#10
Of course you always just use the CE rule of thumb where if you’re not sure you just double the size of the member
#11
Get the rolling bridge jack. I have one for my 4-post. So far I've used it only once, but it sure was the right tool for the job.
Certainly a 2-post lift is much more functional, but they need to be anchored in a nice thick slab of concrete. Not knowing how thick my garage floor was and not wanting to cut it out to pour new thicker mounting pads, I went for a 4-post lift. Its used primarily for storage (my T/A and Cutlass are ~1/2" of being the same height as each other, and my ceiling is 9'-11", leaving me ~ 1" of clearance above each car.......had to re-locate my light fixture above it too). It allows me to pack 4 cars into my 3-car garage. The 4-post lift did not hinder me from performing a transmission swap a couple of years ago, sure beats raising the car on jack-stands raised to their max height and crawling around on my back for everything.
I'd like to see how that is done. Have any pictures?
Certainly a 2-post lift is much more functional, but they need to be anchored in a nice thick slab of concrete. Not knowing how thick my garage floor was and not wanting to cut it out to pour new thicker mounting pads, I went for a 4-post lift. Its used primarily for storage (my T/A and Cutlass are ~1/2" of being the same height as each other, and my ceiling is 9'-11", leaving me ~ 1" of clearance above each car.......had to re-locate my light fixture above it too). It allows me to pack 4 cars into my 3-car garage. The 4-post lift did not hinder me from performing a transmission swap a couple of years ago, sure beats raising the car on jack-stands raised to their max height and crawling around on my back for everything.
Originally Posted by F-85 4-4-2
Also nice to lift a body from its frame.
#12
Once I receive my new lift, I will evaluate the situation of my idea of lifting the front or rear of my cars using the method that I mentioned above and if I feel it's safe enough to suit me then I will use it. If I hurt or kill myself then that is on me.
I'm sure that some methods used by automotive enthusiast such as myself in the past have been looked down on by fully accredited engineers such as Joe or Koda.
I see nothing wrong with using 2 or 3 2x2 8 gage square tubes welded together with a couple 1/4 inch 12x12 plates with jack pockets that can slide the length of the main rails to lift one end or the other. I can see no reason to lift both ends or a vehicle at the same time.
If I have a need to do that, I'll use my 2 post lift
My theory is if it works and don't kill me, then it's fine.
I haven't seen any suggestions of what others may have built, so maybe I'm a little more adventurous that others.
I'm sure that some methods used by automotive enthusiast such as myself in the past have been looked down on by fully accredited engineers such as Joe or Koda.
I see nothing wrong with using 2 or 3 2x2 8 gage square tubes welded together with a couple 1/4 inch 12x12 plates with jack pockets that can slide the length of the main rails to lift one end or the other. I can see no reason to lift both ends or a vehicle at the same time.
If I have a need to do that, I'll use my 2 post lift
My theory is if it works and don't kill me, then it's fine.
I haven't seen any suggestions of what others may have built, so maybe I'm a little more adventurous that others.
Last edited by My2nd 69 442; June 25th, 2018 at 09:42 AM.
#13
Hey I don't look down on anyone other than being 6'4". I'm cautious by nature and profession. There's a gray area in there that is "if you know what you are doing, it's safe" that is recommended against due to so many not knowing what they are doing. Think it through and be careful and you'll be fine.
#14
we use these on frame machines..it has a deck like a drive on rack..and lift cars every day...every day with them..safe and easy..mostly we use 2 bags..but three is available...ive been using them nearly daily since the 90s..never had an issue or a fear for my life moment..
http://www.selson.com/
i posted selson, because they are the best there is..but theres other options
you can buy every single part for a selson, everything ..which others dont have available..theres a lot of Rack-Jacks out in the field to..but they are too big to slide under a rocker or control arm with out a little help from someone else rocking the car a little..
many many options, and if used once or twice a month..not a big deal on a less expensive piece...
i use one around my shop all the time on the shop floor..all the time..i even made me a little handle to help push it around etc..but now theres companies that specialize in bag jack for floor use..
http://www.selson.com/
i posted selson, because they are the best there is..but theres other options
you can buy every single part for a selson, everything ..which others dont have available..theres a lot of Rack-Jacks out in the field to..but they are too big to slide under a rocker or control arm with out a little help from someone else rocking the car a little..
many many options, and if used once or twice a month..not a big deal on a less expensive piece...
i use one around my shop all the time on the shop floor..all the time..i even made me a little handle to help push it around etc..but now theres companies that specialize in bag jack for floor use..
#15
Koda and Joe
I did not mean to imply that either of you would look down on any person. I meant that fully qualified engineers may not approve(or look down on) the methods that us non engineers my come up with or try something that you may consider unsafe or "fly by night".
If my comment insinuated that either of you would "look down" on those with less education, I apologize
I did not mean to imply that either of you would look down on any person. I meant that fully qualified engineers may not approve(or look down on) the methods that us non engineers my come up with or try something that you may consider unsafe or "fly by night".
If my comment insinuated that either of you would "look down" on those with less education, I apologize
#16
Koda and Joe
I did not mean to imply that either of you would look down on any person. I meant that fully qualified engineers may not approve(or look down on) the methods that us non engineers my come up with or try something that you may consider unsafe or "fly by night".
If my comment insinuated that either of you would "look down" on those with less education, I apologize
I did not mean to imply that either of you would look down on any person. I meant that fully qualified engineers may not approve(or look down on) the methods that us non engineers my come up with or try something that you may consider unsafe or "fly by night".
If my comment insinuated that either of you would "look down" on those with less education, I apologize
I don't feel slighted either...lol .... I just love to make fun of Engineers.....Even if it's me (I'm a PE licensed Civil Engineer...). I do more seat of the pants stuff than most. You should have seen the cinder blocks and 4x4's holding up the tub of my 442 when I was restoring it....
#18
I have a 4 post & keep a variety of jacks around. As Marxjunk noted I have an old Selson jack that leaks so it is only good for initial lift & then get a stand underneath. I have a few scissors jacks salvaged from total loss cars headed to the auction/boneyard. Weld a 3/4" nut or short bolt where the drive rod would go & use impact to raise & lower. As mentioned by Koda I have 2 multi stage bottle jacks that are short enough to get under frame with a pad but will still lift car appx 18" or so. Also have a couple of "hybrid" screw jacks (shaped like a bottle jack but are wound up & down like a scissor jack) that I salvaged out of E350s decades ago. I have a sliding jack tray that I rarely use & high post that is a help for certain things.
2 post is generally better for working on cars but I like the stability of 4 post, the decreased worry over floor integrity (I have my posts leveled + a large footprint via large 1/2" steel plates-OLD concrete pitched to center drain) and I don't like watching my convertible get suplexed when lifted in the middle nor would I want to have it stay that way for months each winter.
1 (or more) of each is the best of both worlds.
2 post is generally better for working on cars but I like the stability of 4 post, the decreased worry over floor integrity (I have my posts leveled + a large footprint via large 1/2" steel plates-OLD concrete pitched to center drain) and I don't like watching my convertible get suplexed when lifted in the middle nor would I want to have it stay that way for months each winter.
1 (or more) of each is the best of both worlds.
#19
Koda and Joe
I did not mean to imply that either of you would look down on any person. I meant that fully qualified engineers may not approve(or look down on) the methods that us non engineers my come up with or try something that you may consider unsafe or "fly by night".
If my comment insinuated that either of you would "look down" on those with less education, I apologize
I did not mean to imply that either of you would look down on any person. I meant that fully qualified engineers may not approve(or look down on) the methods that us non engineers my come up with or try something that you may consider unsafe or "fly by night".
If my comment insinuated that either of you would "look down" on those with less education, I apologize
#21
Check out the December 5, 2016 posts from paulolds.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...nos-442-a.html
I also picked up a body cart from Summit Racing, when it was on sale. Not worth the time and money for this novice welder to build one.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...4vgaApIq8P8HAQ
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...nos-442-a.html
I also picked up a body cart from Summit Racing, when it was on sale. Not worth the time and money for this novice welder to build one.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...4vgaApIq8P8HAQ
#24
The guys I know aren't engineers but they have worked over a car or two on a four post. They have tall stands to use . They lift the car on the lift and set the stands, then lower the lift where the stands hold the car up and do the brakes or what ever with that end in the air. works for them.
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