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I found a couple CFM calculators online. This one is from Summit's page. Looks like I'm in the ballpark.
Maximum Engine RPM : 5500
Engine Size in Cubic Inches : 461
Street Carb CFM : 623.6
Racing Carb CFM : 807.02
That calculator is designed more for BBC airflows and power. The BBO heads flows more like an LT1 small block. But that good for low rpm torque and mileage. I have seen a wheel standing 350 olds destroy a street/strip Camaro with a 454, with all the goodies by 20+ car lengths. The 350 had the 650cfm holley 2bbl, which was less than 400cfms rated by 4bbl standards. The Camaro an 85o double pumper. Yep you have plenty of carb CFMs Now, if you can get the air fuel right and any other little details you will see.
Yeah, the TV cable is set up correctly, and I'm going to have to do it all over again. I'm getting pretty good at it by now, lol. It's just getting the gauge threaded in to the trans that's getting old. I'm ready for a permanent, in cab, gauge but then I won't be able to read it from the engine bay.
As for my carbs being set up for my engine combo, I'm sure they're not. I hear tell that Ruggles' book has a table for just such a scenario.
And yeah man, I love the rare-earth magnets. I use a lot of them for my sculpture. I was actually thinking of making some window screen and magnet grill covers for the Cutlass. Seems we always get stuck driving at night between two corn fields!
Okay, so I don't think I have to weld on the carb. I found my old (but freshly rebuilt) 4MV I was running before the 200-4r. If I'm looking at it correctly, I think I can add a pan-head machine screw to the linkage, using a couple nuts and maybe locktite blue, to hold the TV cable. I loved this carb with the TH350. It ran very smooth. And according to many online CFM calculators, 750 CFM should be more than enough. If I can get the TV geometry correct, I'll open it up, clean it (gaskets are still nice and pliable) and see how I do with it's idle circuit.
The idle circuit will probably be a lot closer on the earlier carb. If you can get the proper TV pull, go for it. Wow, you have one of the few front inlet M4M carbs that are only 750 cfm. Yes, a member on the G body forum did the idle circuit mods on a 305 Qjet, from no idle to near perfect on his cammed 350, following Cliff's book. I had the same issue, I chickened out and sent mine to Everyday Performance, man what a difference.
Thanks, 307, I appreciate the input. I had to drill a couple holes and do some light grinding but I got the linkage where I need it. I do think I have short spring syndrome in the 200-4r but I have good pressure that responds as soon as I give it a little gas.
I'll have a look on G-body for the thread. With the older carb and a little more timing it's pulling haaarrdd and shifting well but the idle still isn't good. I have to keep it at 1000 rpm to keep it running. It drops too much when in drive and the brakes on. I checked for vacuum leaks and resealed the brake booster fitting (manifold) but no change. It idles the same no matter the changes I make so I'm assuming it's the idle circuit. I know I'll need a good set of numbered drill bits, #50 to maybe #70, but I really don't like the idea of pulling out those tubes. Can I just drill them out bigger?
I emailed an eBay seller I like to use for Q-jet parts, QuadrajetPower, and these are his recommendations;
Thanks, 307, I appreciate the input. I had to drill a couple holes and do some light grinding but I got the linkage where I need it. I do think I have short spring syndrome in the 200-4r but I have good pressure that responds as soon as I give it a little gas.
I'll have a look on G-body for the thread. With the older carb and a little more timing it's pulling haaarrdd and shifting well but the idle still isn't good. I have to keep it at 1000 rpm to keep it running. It drops too much when in drive and the brakes on. I checked for vacuum leaks and resealed the brake booster fitting (manifold) but no change. It idles the same no matter the changes I make so I'm assuming it's the idle circuit. I know I'll need a good set of numbered drill bits, #50 to maybe #70, but I really don't like the idea of pulling out those tubes. Can I just drill them out bigger?
I emailed an eBay seller I like to use for Q-jet parts, QuadrajetPower, and these are his recommendations;
My Crane Fireball I used first for years idled about like that, with about a 234@.050 on the intake.with a 113 LSA with a Holley. A smaller cam or a looser converter are usually the solutions I would think. I am using a .Crane 222 @.050 now on 110.
That calculator is designed more for BBC airflows and power. The BBO heads flows more like an LT1 small block. But that good for low rpm torque and mileage. I have seen a wheel standing 350 olds destroy a street/strip Camaro with a 454, with all the goodies by 20+ car lengths. The 350 had the 650cfm holley 2bbl, which was less than 400cfms rated by 4bbl standards. The Camaro an 85o double pumper. Yep you have plenty of carb CFMs Now, if you can get the air fuel right and any other little details you will see.
Sorry, missed this post. But that's impressive and not something I would have guessed. I suppose it's really about having the right combination, yeah?
Originally Posted by Firewalker
My Crane Fireball I used first for years idled about like that, with about a 234@.050 on the intake.with a 113 LSA with a Holley. A smaller cam or a looser converter are usually the solutions I would think. I am using a .Crane 222 @.050 now on 110.
I have a superficial understanding of all the cam numbers and what they mean but what exactly gives it the lope? This is my cam card. I'll see if I can get a video of the idle at 800 or 900 rpm and link to it.
Sorry, missed this post. But that's impressive and not something I would have guessed. I suppose it's really about having the right combination, yeah?
I have a superficial understanding of all the cam numbers and what they mean but what exactly gives it the lope? This is my cam card. I'll see if I can get a video of the idle at 800 or 900 rpm and link to it.
Yes and no on the combo, as one part can effect the other. For example DW's 455 runs about 12 flats and get great gas mileage and vacuum, with a small .214@ 050 intake cam. But he home ported his iron heads and built his own headers. He also uses a 700r4 and not a lot more, and put all together with some Mickey's and ballast in the trunk he really smokes most street Olds with about 12 flats. Thats also much faster than the W30s from the factory with a much smaller cam then they used. Smooth idle. By increasing the air flow in and out he needed less cam to run that fast and got benefits. Idle at 750 and 18 inches of vacuum.
The rumble or lope is a combination of things and has a lot to do with overlap. My Crane Fireball, which was close to the W30 specs had a lot of lope and overlap, while the slightly smaller Crane I use now has about half that much overlap with 12 degrees less intake. Vacuum increased 3-4 inches.Timing and idle speed can also has effect it some.
Last edited by Firewalker; June 20th, 2018 at 04:25 PM.
Reason: typing error
High duration, which will play into over lap and a tighter LSA cause a loopier idle, but I am no expert. My 214/214 cam 110 LSA is definitely loopier than the 204/214 cam 114 LSA it replaced. It does sound pretty rowdy but in a good way. I way also worried about removing the idle tubes without wrecking them, I think they pretty much have to be removed. I think heating them with a propane torch helps loosen them.
Lol, thanks Randy. I've been playing a little. I bumped up the timing and it smokes both tires without trying very hard. I was surprised how much the exhaust tone changed, I suppose both by the motor upgrade and the fact that I had to remove the H-pipe to accommodate the long tube headers.
I guess my big concern is the idle when I get the AC hooked back up. I think a while back I read something here from [other] Eric about a solenoid that would kick up the idle when the air is kicked on.
That cam in my small block liked about 800 rpm idle with a 650 double pumper and it was pretty smooth . Same engine with a little more cam kiked 850 to 900 rpm and it was running 12.2's but that was a small block . I say that cam in my engine because thats my old cam lol. But apples to oranges between the 2
That cam in my small block liked about 800 rpm idle with a 650 double pumper and it was pretty smooth . Same engine with a little more cam kiked 850 to 900 rpm and it was running 12.2's but that was a small block . I say that cam in my engine because thats my old cam lol. But apples to oranges between the 2
But you weren't running an emissions era Qjet, it makes a big difference.
The 455s main torque seems to die off past 4000 on most engines, though for a drag only car might run best shifting about 5000, though the short stroked 425 and 400s can run a lot higher for drag only. Custom built race engines using modified or non stock parts are different animals with different power curves and parts to survive longer at higher rpms.
Are you kidding me? There are 2 things in play here Tq. & Hp. and a stock 455 will easily pull to 5,000 rpm. As for the rest of what you said, I spent $650 on a rebuild and I'm running a mostly stock engine other than ARP rod bolts, Torker intake, Engle's biggest hydraulic cam (EP-28/29HYD), modified Holley 800 dp, HV-HP oil pump, anti-pump-up lifters, and headers. The bottom end is all stock except the ARP rod bolts, HV-HP oil pump, and oil restricters, used cast high compression pistons from a 1970 block, and a 'N' crank. I have about 7,500 miles and about 200 1/4 miles pass on it, and I shift at 6,500 rpm (did 6,000 rpm with stock intake) and it hasn't gone kaboom. In fact a friend of mine built the exact same motor for his boat, then he built one the same except for TRW forged pistons for his drag only 74 GTO. We both shift at 6,500 rpm, he ran a best of 10.41 with a 125 Hp nitrous kit which he could only activate after he got into 2nd gear otherwise he spun the **** out of the tires (32x14x15 GY slicks). He ran the car for 4 years with no problems, yearly tear downs showed no problems. He then up the nitrous to 250 Hp and was only able to use it in 3rd gear, he made 6 passes before the motor finally came apart. I do know that he never made it into the 9's because of tire spin. 455's are a lot tougher than people think and these were not custom built race engines. But well thought out builds. Cast pistons because of their light weight place a lot less stress on the rods & crank, but they can't handle knock or high cylinder pressures like forged.
Originally Posted by Firewalker
Lower rpm power is a gift in many ways on the streets. But a curse in a drag only car where deep gearing is a factor and every tenth counts. Those use to 7000 rpm 4 cylinders, small blocks, or high rpm bikes often think something is wrong when they get the 455s and expect higher rpms power there too. Most of them go kaboom rather quickly.
Are you talking about a bbo or a sbo? must be sbo. 455's have way too much torque for street launches, a sbo would be a lot better. The only way I can get half descent launches on the street is with my slicks on. "a curse in a drag only car" say what? Most races are won in the first 60ft. The quicker I can get my car off the line the better and that means bottom end torque. You select your rear gears for the top end rpm at the finish line and not the launch. For the launch it's in the tranny and engine. In the old days I hit 7,000 rpm a couple of times, once with a 800 cfm Q-Jet and once with the Holley and only hurt the valves and push-rods, once again stock bottom end, no kabooms.
Originally Posted by Firewalker
I have actually tested different shift rpms in the quarter and gain virtually nothing shifting above 4000, with stock C heads, intake, cast iron exhausts with short 2 1/2 in exhaust and high flow mufflers, and a 234@.050 Fireball cam. A very different engine say compared to the 375hp 396 I had or the 406 or SBC.
IMO that there is something wrong with your setup, I ran a Sig Erson cam TQ30H very similar to today's TQ40H and it shifted best at 5,500 with a stock intake, a 800 CFM Q-Jet, 9.2:1 compression, 1-3/4 headers, 2.500 convertor which gave me a best of 13.10 1/4 mile. The cam has 220-in/228-ex @ 0.050" and 0.504" lift, quite a bit smaller than your Fireball. This setup could out pull (1.98 60ft.) and out 1/4 mile my buddies 75 Nova with an LS5 setup.
I don't want to sound like I'm beating you up but, stock 455's if rebuilt properly with things like an align hone, micro-polished 'N' crank, ARP rod bolts, cast pistons, HV-HP oil pump, and oil restricters to the cam, they can make god awful torque, descent Hp, and last for quite along time like mine. There are people on this forum that have custom built race engines turning 7,000 to 7,500 rpm and doing quite well but, you don't need one of these engines to spin up to 6,000 - 6,500 rpm.
Thanks for the link, 307. That should work just fine since I drilled the intake for the original [linkage damper?] plunger thing that kept the carb from closing too quickly with the air on.
As far as my build goes; I may have gone a little overboard but after digging into this engine, I started questioning everything about it. After seeing a completely lateral hone job (no cross hatching), a 1/4" ring gap (yes, one quarter inch), and a partially melted piston, I replaced everything. I couldn't even be sure the oil pump was original to the motor. Definitely not a budget build but I didn't want to end up with a 600 pound paperweight. But the wife supported all the decisions so I'm not sleeping on the couch. Now, had it exploded during break-in, the outcome might have been different, lol.
I ordered Ruggles' book today. I figured why build an engine like this and not match the carb internals?
Lastly, I bought the Wiseco forged pistons because there was some discussion about cast pistons coming up a little short, lowering the compression. I've been meaning to do a compression test but I really don't want to remove the AC box to get to that back passenger cylinder.
That cam in my small block liked about 800 rpm idle with a 650 double pumper and it was pretty smooth . Same engine with a little more cam kiked 850 to 900 rpm and it was running 12.2's but that was a small block . I say that cam in my engine because thats my old cam lol. But apples to oranges between the 2
Maybe I dialed it in wrong but I checked it three times, lol. But it's kicking the crap outta' my old small block so I'm not going to borrow trouble.
Are you kidding me? There are 2 things in play here Tq. & Hp. and a stock 455 will easily pull to 5,000 rpm. As for the rest of what you said, I spent $650 on a rebuild and I'm running a mostly stock engine other than ARP rod bolts, Torker intake, Engle's biggest hydraulic cam (EP-28/29HYD), modified Holley 800 dp, HV-HP oil pump, anti-pump-up lifters, and headers. The bottom end is all stock except the ARP rod bolts, HV-HP oil pump, and oil restricters, used cast high compression pistons from a 1970 block, and a 'N' crank. I have about 7,500 miles and about 200 1/4 miles pass on it, and I shift at 6,500 rpm (did 6,000 rpm with stock intake) and it hasn't gone kaboom. In fact a friend of mine built the exact same motor for his boat, then he built one the same except for TRW forged pistons for his drag only 74 GTO. We both shift at 6,500 rpm, he ran a best of 10.41 with a 125 Hp nitrous kit which he could only activate after he got into 2nd gear otherwise he spun the **** out of the tires (32x14x15 GY slicks). He ran the car for 4 years with no problems, yearly tear downs showed no problems. He then up the nitrous to 250 Hp and was only able to use it in 3rd gear, he made 6 passes before the motor finally came apart. I do know that he never made it into the 9's because of tire spin. 455's are a lot tougher than people think and these were not custom built race engines. But well thought out builds. Cast pistons because of their light weight place a lot less stress on the rods & crank, but they can't handle knock or high cylinder pressures like forged.
Are you talking about a bbo or a sbo? must be sbo. 455's have way too much torque for street launches, a sbo would be a lot better. The only way I can get half descent launches on the street is with my slicks on. "a curse in a drag only car" say what? Most races are won in the first 60ft. The quicker I can get my car off the line the better and that means bottom end torque. You select your rear gears for the top end rpm at the finish line and not the launch. For the launch it's in the tranny and engine. In the old days I hit 7,000 rpm a couple of times, once with a 800 cfm Q-Jet and once with the Holley and only hurt the valves and push-rods, once again stock bottom end, no kabooms.
IMO that there is something wrong with your setup, I ran a Sig Erson cam TQ30H very similar to today's TQ40H and it shifted best at 5,500 with a stock intake, a 800 CFM Q-Jet, 9.2:1 compression, 1-3/4 headers, 2.500 convertor which gave me a best of 13.10 1/4 mile. The cam has 220-in/228-ex @ 0.050" and 0.504" lift, quite a bit smaller than your Fireball. This setup could out pull (1.98 60ft.) and out 1/4 mile my buddies 75 Nova with an LS5 setup.
I don't want to sound like I'm beating you up but, stock 455's if rebuilt properly with things like an align hone, micro-polished 'N' crank, ARP rod bolts, cast pistons, HV-HP oil pump, and oil restricters to the cam, they can make god awful torque, descent Hp, and last for quite along time like mine. There are people on this forum that have custom built race engines turning 7,000 to 7,500 rpm and doing quite well but, you don't need one of these engines to spin up to 6,000 - 6,500 rpm.
Ray
Now let the **** fly......
Don't worry about beating me up you never laid a glove on me
Sorry suspensions are the cause the lack of bite and spinning the tires, unless you are talking about spinning, while on the back bumper, which you are not. Tires are for initial bite, or if still spinning with all the weight on the rear wheels. I run 1990s 295/50/15 Cooper Cobras, and can pull the front wheels on the street . Rotate. My short block has been running for over 30+ years, and driven daily for most of those years. Changed the heads and cam and intake and more almost 13 years ago. Its cranking pressure is now 210 psi and burns no oil. My first AHRA National Record I got was in an Oldsmobile, at the age of 17 53 years ago. I also have a great sense of hour thats gotten even better with age....
Last edited by Firewalker; June 20th, 2018 at 11:08 PM.
Reason: Spelling
Don't worry about beating me up you never laid a glove on me
Sorry suspensions are the cause the lack of bite and spinning the tires, unless you are talking about spinning, while on the back bumper, which you are not. Tires are for initial bite, or if still spinning with all the weight on the rear wheels. I run 1990s 295/50/15 Cooper Cobras, and can pull the front wheels on the street . Rotate. My short block has been running for over 30+ years, and driven daily for most of those years. Changed the heads and cam and intake and more almost 13 years ago. Its cranking pressure is now 210 psi and burns no oil. My first AHRA National Record I got was in an Oldsmobile, at the age of 17 53 years ago. I also have a great sense of hour thats gotten even better with age....
Don't worry about beating me up you never laid a glove on me
Good
Originally Posted by Firewalker
Sorry suspensions are the cause the lack of bite and spinning the tires, unless you are talking about spinning, while on the back bumper, which you are not. Tires are for initial bite, or if still spinning with all the weight on the rear wheels. I run 1990s 295/50/15 Cooper Cobras, and can pull the front wheels on the street . Rotate. My short block has been running for over 30+ years, and driven daily for most of those years. Changed the heads and cam and intake and more almost 13 years ago. Its cranking pressure is now 210 psi and burns no oil. My first AHRA National Record I got was in an Oldsmobile, at the age of 17 53 years ago. I also have a great sense of hour thats gotten even better with age....
You forgot too mention weight transfer and you need some sort of traction to get it all started. With the old slapper bars I had they were useless but, I made myself a set of Assassins and Wow what a difference. I haven't tried them on the street with street tires but, it is like night and day at the track and a bit of fooling around in the back-lane. I find my reaction times are better with age, a lot better than 30 years ago.
You forgot too mention weight transfer and you need some sort of traction to get it all started. With the old slapper bars I had they were useless but, I made myself a set of Assassins and Wow what a difference. I haven't tried them on the street with street tires but, it is like night and day at the track and a bit of fooling around in the back-lane. I find my reaction times are better with age, a lot better than 30 years ago.
Ray
Most people have little clue how to set slapper bars to get them to work, but yes you also need initial bite to get them to work and "come on". I worked on this, with the regular hard old street tires that were not great, for hours rather than buying tires. Getting my 0-30 and 0-60 down lower and lower first, then the quarter miles times down, by adjusting them and shifting different amounts of ballast over my rear. No positraction, nor soft or big tires, and only 800lbs over the rear axle naturally. This was with full length Lakewood bars (not exactly slappers), that weight about 10 pounds each.
Adding ballast, to get the hard tires to get better initial bite improved 0-30 and maybe 0-60, but there was a balancing point on that, and slowing it all down, in the quarter, with more weight than needed, even if the 0-30 times improved.
Now many do not know bigger tires slow a car down, so that is not done unless all else fails, and will results in a better ET in the quarter. I want ultimate traction with the smallest tire where it all transfers even on loose gravel
I have been in places where there was almost zero bite racing in my earlier days. Carlsbad NM has a concrete dragstrip in the middle of sand fields, and didn't clean the sand off the big pore concrete. I had a 215 63 Cutlass automatic like it came from th factory with air and power steering, and it could not bite at all in first, and not much in second gear. I was feathering it like it was on ice. No where else, but on ice did I see this. Racing on tiny sand marbles.
About 4 years later and a L78 hot 4 speed Camaro I ran into the situation again. This time, with tons more power and a country farm to market asphalt highway, on a hot summers day when the oil bleeds out of the asphalt.
I learned this from a whole lot of experience and some loses and many wins. I also had some good very fast friends that were older than me, and I observed a lot as well, on what worked and what didn't. I also spent years hanging out in a racers machine shop. He went undefeated in class racing in the first tri power 442 4 speeds for 18 straight months. Mostly BBC Chevelles in that class and a few BBF.of that era. Solid Black, with a huge white Rocket on the sides, and Ride a Rocket over it. Dealers car...he built and drove and more after that. Then changed to owning a NAPA store and a machine shop.
I took off the big bars, and put on the smaller chrome thin bars available today. Nope not happy with the ride nor traction. What I am wanting to do is build and try some Caltracs type setup for leaf springs. Hoping for a smooth ride as long as the power is not being applied.
If you can lift the tires off on the street you should have people knocking on your door and known world wide because guys running slicks on a prepped street have issues with cars that are designed to hook. You must tell the street racers they have been doing it all wrong.
If you can lift the tires off on the street you should have people knocking on your door and known world wide because guys running slicks on a prepped street have issues with cars that are designed to hook. You must tell the street racers they have been doing it all wrong.
Physics
A wheelie is imminent when the acceleration is sufficient to reduce the load borne by the front axle to zero.[19] The conditions for this can be calculated with the so-called "weight transfer equation":
Δ W e i g h t f r o n t = a h w m {\displaystyle \Delta Weight_{front}=a{\frac {h}{w}}m} where Δ W e i g h t f r o n t {\displaystyle \Delta Weight_{front}} is the change in load borne by the front wheels, a {\displaystyle a} is the longitudinal acceleration, h {\displaystyle h} is the center of mass height, w {\displaystyle w} is the wheelbase, and m {\displaystyle m} is the total vehicle mass.[20][21]
An equivalent expression, which does not require knowing the load borne by the front wheels nor the total vehicle mass, is for the minimum longitudinal acceleration required for a wheelie:
a m i n = g b h {\displaystyle a_{min}=g{\frac {b}{h}}} where g {\displaystyle g} is the acceleration due to gravity, b {\displaystyle b} is the horizontal distance from the rear axle to the center of mass, and h {\displaystyle h} is the vertical distance from the ground to the center of mass.[22] Thus the minimum acceleration required is directly proportional to how far forward the center of mass is located and inversely proportional to how high it is located.
Since mechanical power can be defined as force times velocity, in one dimension, and force is equivalent to mass times acceleration, then the minimum power required for a wheelie can be expressed as the product of mass, velocity, and the minimum acceleration required for a wheelie:
P m i n = m v a m i n {\displaystyle P_{min}=mva_{min}} Thus the minimum power required is directly proportional to the mass of the vehicle and to its velocity. The slower a vehicle is moving, the less power is required to perform a wheelie, and that is without even considering the power required to overcome air drag, which increases with the cube of velocity. Therefore, the least amount of power required is when the vehicle begins accelerating from rest.
In the case of tractor and truck pulling, the force to the pull the load is applied above the ground, and so it also acts to lift the front wheels and thus reduces the forward acceleration necessary to lift the front wheels.
My old k5 blazer would pop wheelies but it was nothing to brag about. Of you gotta add ballast then you aint doing it right. I found the limits of the all stock rear suspension in my 72 weighing 3300 lbs. Light light and mostly all steel
Sorry fellas, busy with the holiday.
The pencil torch is to assist in removing the idle tubes. I've got a set of wire gauge drill bits from #1 to #80. At least I think I do. That #80 is a little hard to see, lol. I've just started measuring and making modifications to the idle circuit. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
And I was under the impression that carburetors self-caramelize. Or maybe it's just today's fuels
Sorry fellas, busy with the holiday.
The pencil torch is to assist in removing the idle tubes. I've got a set of wire gauge drill bits from #1 to #80. At least I think I do. That #80 is a little hard to see, lol. I've just started measuring and making modifications to the idle circuit. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
And I was under the impression that carburetors self-caramelize. Or maybe it's just today's fuels
All sounds good with the bits and the pencil torch, but however it may look like caramelization, but the taste test would probably confirm the lack of sweetness of sugar. Still you are on the right track and doing good. While you are doing that I am wasting my time with blending C60 into some McEvoy's Virgin olive oil.
June 17th, 2018, 10:25 PM
Now, if you can get the air fuel right and any other little details you will see.
where Δ W e i g h t f r o n t {\displaystyle \Delta Weight_{front}} 
is the change in load borne by the front wheels, a {\displaystyle a} 
is the longitudinal acceleration, h {\displaystyle h} 
is the center of mass height, w {\displaystyle w} 
is the wheelbase, and m {\displaystyle m} 
is the total vehicle mass.[20][21]
where g {\displaystyle g} 
is the acceleration due to gravity, b {\displaystyle b} 
is the horizontal distance from the rear axle to the center of mass, and h {\displaystyle h} 
Thus the minimum power required is directly proportional to the mass of the vehicle and to its velocity. The slower a vehicle is moving, the less power is required to perform a wheelie, and that is without even considering the power required to overcome air drag, which increases with the cube of velocity. Therefore, the least amount of power required is when the vehicle begins accelerating from rest.
