Vin number on body question
#1
Vin number on body question
Is there anywhere on the frame or body that Oldsmobile punched in the vin number of car besides the dash vin plate? This is for a 1970 Cutlass 2 door.
Thanks
Thanks
#4
No, it's on top of the frame such that you pretty much have to remove the body from the frame to see it. There are derivatives of the VIN stamped into the engine block and the transmission, though, if those two items are still original to your car. On the block, the VIN derivative is stamped into a pad just below the #1 cylinder (forward most, driver side). If your block is original to the car, the first number on the VIN derivative will be a 3 (which means Oldsmobile), and the last 8 figures will be the same as the last 8 figures of your VIN. This pad is covered by a power steering bracket, however, and will be hard to see is there is an oily dirt build-up. It can be seen, though, if cleaned and observed by strategically placing a mirror and a flashlight.
That same VIN derivative will be stamped into the transmission casing on the driver side if your transmission is original to the car. It can be seen from underneath the car. As well, if there is an oily dirt build-up, it will have to be cleaned off to see the VIN derivative.
Randy C.
That same VIN derivative will be stamped into the transmission casing on the driver side if your transmission is original to the car. It can be seen from underneath the car. As well, if there is an oily dirt build-up, it will have to be cleaned off to see the VIN derivative.
Randy C.
#6
This question comes up a lot. Once again, there is only ONE complete VIN on the car - the VIN tag at the base of the windshield. Later model years will have the typed stick-on tag on the door jamb. The VIN derivative stamps on the block, trans, and frame are only nine of the 13 characters of the VIN. If you are asking because some DMV is telling you that you need two VINs to title or register the car, that is not possible. Cars that old do not have more than one complete VIN.
#9
California DMV wanted the sticker on the door for my 70 Cutlass because it was an out of state transfer. Since it was missing they made me go to the highway patrol to have it verified. The cop who inspected it looked at the cowl tag, I guess since the body style matched he passed it. If I had to do it again I would just get a repro sticker before trying, I bet the DMV would pass it then.
#10
It's a very frustrating thing. When my parents moved to Washington State in early 1971 and they relicensed their (now my) '68 4-4-2, the state made a mistake on the model year number in the VIN and called it a "B" instead of an "8". When I went to license it in 2007 after it was restored, I noted the problem with them (that they created the problem clear back in 1971) but I still had to go to a Washington State Patrol vehicle inspection depot some 20 miles away to get the car "inspected". It was supposed to take 6 weeks to get an appointment but I forced the issue and got an appointment the very next day. I got an old man inspector that was out for my throat and was headed towards not passing my 4-4-2 because it only had one VIN location that was visible. Fortunately for me, there was a younger WSP inspector in the building (who owned a '70 4-4-2!) that straightened out the situation and I was able to get it corrected. It just seems like there is always some trouble if you have to get an older vehicle inspected.
I agree with you that, if you would have attached a replacement door jamb sticker, they would have readily passed your car. I don't believe a lot of the inspectors know the difference.
Randy C.
I agree with you that, if you would have attached a replacement door jamb sticker, they would have readily passed your car. I don't believe a lot of the inspectors know the difference.
Randy C.
Last edited by rcorrigan5; March 22nd, 2018 at 06:05 PM. Reason: door jamb sticker comments added
#11
Well, I'm not sure the reason your needing to locate the vin derivative on the frame. But here's an old thread with photos of the frame stampings. John
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ped-frame.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ped-frame.html
#12
By 1970, GM was stamping the engine blocks with the VIN, and they also had hidden stamping usually somewhere else, that was not disclosed to anyone other than law enforcement. I know this for a fact.
Below is a link on YouTube that proves this point.
http://www.vintageautomotive.net/?tag=hidden-vin
Now, for obvious reasons, I am not going to disclose exactly where to look, but if you are doing a complete restoration, you will come across it with some diligent inspection. There are also books the L.E. use to tell the inspector where to look. Starting in 1981, the NHTSA required all cars to have a 17 digit VIN. There are also books that decipher the 17 digit VIN number giving greater detail about the vehicle.
Below is a link on YouTube that proves this point.
Hidden or Confidential VIN
VINs have been stamped into frames of vehicles for many years, however the process became more uniform starting approximately during the 1968 model year. The VIN was stamped into various metal objects on the vehicle, including the frame, the body, the engine, transmission and other places. The VIN on the frame or the body became known as the Hidden VIN, the Confidential VIN or the Federal VIN. This number is usually not a full, complete VIN but a derivative thereof. The sequential production number of the hidden VIN should match the sequential production number (the last five or six digits) of the Public VIN and if the vehicle was produced after August 31, 1969, the FMVSS certification sticker. The VIN on the engine and transmission would have also been a derivative of the VIN and it too should match the Public VIN provided that the engine and/or transmission is original.
VINs have been stamped into frames of vehicles for many years, however the process became more uniform starting approximately during the 1968 model year. The VIN was stamped into various metal objects on the vehicle, including the frame, the body, the engine, transmission and other places. The VIN on the frame or the body became known as the Hidden VIN, the Confidential VIN or the Federal VIN. This number is usually not a full, complete VIN but a derivative thereof. The sequential production number of the hidden VIN should match the sequential production number (the last five or six digits) of the Public VIN and if the vehicle was produced after August 31, 1969, the FMVSS certification sticker. The VIN on the engine and transmission would have also been a derivative of the VIN and it too should match the Public VIN provided that the engine and/or transmission is original.
Now, for obvious reasons, I am not going to disclose exactly where to look, but if you are doing a complete restoration, you will come across it with some diligent inspection. There are also books the L.E. use to tell the inspector where to look. Starting in 1981, the NHTSA required all cars to have a 17 digit VIN. There are also books that decipher the 17 digit VIN number giving greater detail about the vehicle.
#13
That's still not the VIN, it's a nine character VIN derivative, as described in prior posts. Count the number of characters in your you tube photo. There's no big secret about this. There is only one complete metal stamped 13 character VIN on a 1970 (the sticker on the door is neither metal nor permanent).
#14
This a good read even though it says Chevevlle it also covers the other divisions. Concealed vin# for frames are covered towards the end. This info has been hit and miss across model lines:
http://chevellestuff.net/qd/partial_vin.htm
http://chevellestuff.net/qd/partial_vin.htm
#15
This a good read even though it says Chevevlle it also covers the other divisions. Concealed vin# for frames are covered towards the end:
http://chevellestuff.net/qd/partial_vin.htm
http://chevellestuff.net/qd/partial_vin.htm
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