Ignition coil replacment cutlass 1974
#1
Ignition coil replacment cutlass 1974
Hello everyone,
I need help to choose my new ignition coil, my olds coi is dead i need to replace it.
Before it was a accel racing coil 140305 on it, and i found the MSD blaster 2 on internet in france.
I ve got the Sb V8 5,7 L 350 rocket.
Is it ok with this ignition coil, or i need to replace it by the SMP UC12?
Thansk for your help
See you and happy new years !
I need help to choose my new ignition coil, my olds coi is dead i need to replace it.
Before it was a accel racing coil 140305 on it, and i found the MSD blaster 2 on internet in france.
I ve got the Sb V8 5,7 L 350 rocket.
Is it ok with this ignition coil, or i need to replace it by the SMP UC12?
Thansk for your help
See you and happy new years !
#2
Has the engine been modified or is it mostly stock? Does it still have the original ignition with the points? If it is stock, you don't need either of these coils and a regular replacement coil should be fine and save you some money.
#3
i don't think the engine has been modified. i think they just change the coil once. how i can see if it's the orginial ignition with points?
that's my first olds car, so i m a beginner.
Si if i's a ignition with point a Standard motor products is fine ?
that's my first olds car, so i m a beginner.
Si if i's a ignition with point a Standard motor products is fine ?
#4
If the coil is a round coil with one small wire and the wire from the center of the car running to the distributor, then it is a points distributor. There could be a small chance somebody converted to a Pertronix or Mallory solid state. You can take the cap off and see if the points and condenser are still under the cap.
#7
From what I read online someplace, HEI started on Jan '74 and later. I am sure the knowledgeable people can set the record straight on this.
Of course, retrofits are not out of the question.
Oldcutlass, the pics should help him determine what he has, thanks.
Ralph
Of course, retrofits are not out of the question.
Oldcutlass, the pics should help him determine what he has, thanks.
Ralph
#9
Ok i will check this, thanks it's really helping me.
Last question can i use the SMP uc12 even if it's a point replacement, or i should by MSD blaster ?
i have seen ballast ? in wich case i need it? coz i ve got a resistance wire going to the ignition .
thansk and happy new years
Last question can i use the SMP uc12 even if it's a point replacement, or i should by MSD blaster ?
i have seen ballast ? in wich case i need it? coz i ve got a resistance wire going to the ignition .
thansk and happy new years
#13
The low resistance aftermarket coil need a ballast resistor. Coils like the accel points replacement supercoil have higher resistance built in.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-8140
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-8140
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 2nd, 2018 at 08:40 AM.
#16
Yes the resistor wire reduces the voltage to prevent the contacts on the point set from burning prematurely. The voltage to the coil should be full battery voltage while in the crank/starting mode and approximately 9V in the run mode.
#18
Hello,
So i replace the ignition coil by standar product, and it's still the same thing as before.
What's new is that the resitor wire when i turn the keyon start to be hot, and now i have only 6v on the positive of the coil.
I don't understand why now it 's less, coz before i change the coil it was 9v.
when i turn the key to start it's turning but looks like no spark, where could the problem come from? from the point in the distributor? spark plug?
How i can test the point ? or if i ve got spark at the spark plug ?
Thanks for your help
see you
Antoine
So i replace the ignition coil by standar product, and it's still the same thing as before.
What's new is that the resitor wire when i turn the keyon start to be hot, and now i have only 6v on the positive of the coil.
I don't understand why now it 's less, coz before i change the coil it was 9v.
when i turn the key to start it's turning but looks like no spark, where could the problem come from? from the point in the distributor? spark plug?
How i can test the point ? or if i ve got spark at the spark plug ?
Thanks for your help
see you
Antoine
#21
Inspect the points, if the contacts are burnt they need to be replaced. You need to make sure your points are opening and closing with the correct dwell of 30* or a point gap of .016. To see if you have spark, pull the center wire from the distributor and hold the end near the engine block when cranking the engine. You will see a solid spark.
This is a good read to trouble shoot the ignition system.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-ignition.html
This is a good read to trouble shoot the ignition system.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-ignition.html
#22
ok.
If the points are burned, fore replacement, i need specific one or not ?
And i change the coil, but now i m thinking if this one was dead or not, i test the primary resitance 1.4 Ohm et secondayr 15K ohm.
and one the new one i ve got something like 0.8 and 9k, do you think that is correct ?
If the points are burned, fore replacement, i need specific one or not ?
And i change the coil, but now i m thinking if this one was dead or not, i test the primary resitance 1.4 Ohm et secondayr 15K ohm.
and one the new one i ve got something like 0.8 and 9k, do you think that is correct ?
#23
You need points that fit a GM points distributor. I would also replace the condenser. Being you are in France, I don't know what your auto parts stores stock. Both coils are probably ok by your readings.
#26
ok this is with condensor?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...utlass-supreme
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...utlass-supreme
#27
Yep. That is what is referred to as a uniset. It is a lot easier to install than separate points and condenser. Your car may have separate points and condenser which this will replace. Rock Auto has the same points for about $5.00 less plus several other brands. Standard is also a good brand. Here is the link.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/o...r+points,11337
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/o...r+points,11337
#28
ok this is with condensor?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...utlass-supreme
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...utlass-supreme
#29
#31
You might as well check your spark plugs also, replace if they have been in there a while. If the inside of the cap and rotor look burnt/corroded or have a buildup of carbon, I would also replace them. Same with the spark plug wires if they are old and dry looking.
You need to set the points to .016 gap with a feeler gauge on one of the high points of the distributor cam. If you have a tach/dwell meter adjust them with the engine running to 30*. Then you need to set your ignition timing to 12* BTDC at 1100 rpm. After you have the timing set drop your curb idle speed to 650rpm in drive. Once you've done that adjust your carburetor A/F mixture screws.
You need to set the points to .016 gap with a feeler gauge on one of the high points of the distributor cam. If you have a tach/dwell meter adjust them with the engine running to 30*. Then you need to set your ignition timing to 12* BTDC at 1100 rpm. After you have the timing set drop your curb idle speed to 650rpm in drive. Once you've done that adjust your carburetor A/F mixture screws.
#32
this one will be good for my car ?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-5564
And this caps and rotor ?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-5500
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-5564
And this caps and rotor ?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-5500
#33
While those woud work, check with Rockauto
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/o...17595,ignition
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/o...17595,ignition
#36
The wire set is for an hei cap with male terminals and will not work.
These will work
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...utlass-supreme
The cap and rotor will work.
These will work
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...utlass-supreme
The cap and rotor will work.
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