Ok so I've got a junk 307 roller motor that I striped and saved all the useable parts, oil filler tube, lifter forks, fork hold down, cam retainer etc. Say I wanted to convert my 68 cutlass (350 4bbl) to a roller job, could i buy a cam and lifters and just use all the 307 hardware? The block already has the bosses drilled in the valley to bolt in the fork hold down. I'm not in a hurry but it was just a theory I had when stripping the 307. Thanks guys.

 

The late 307 roller lifters and hardware doesnt work in the oldsr blocks, you'll need a retro fit camshaft and lifters that use a tie-bar between lifter pairs

 

I offer roller cam kits. Let me know if I can be of help.

 

If you don't want to worry about using a zinc additive or special high zink oil and drive it a decent amount it's worth it. I"m not sure you can buy lifter "gloves" like used on sbc but if you can you can remove the cam without removing the intake if your a cam swap kinda guy. We used to do that on our dyno mule's back when I worked in that field

 

As noted the 307 roller lifters are 0.921" diameter vs. the 0.842" bores in your 350 block. The only part of the 307 roller system that would be useful is the spider and tie bars. The Buick 3800 Series II motors use 0.842" roller lifters that should work with the 307 tie bars and spider, but I have not compared them with Olds lifters to see if the grooves and oil holes are in the right places. Of course you'd need a roller cam for them. By the time you do all of this, you're probably better off with a kit from Mark.

 

How do you remove a cam with the lifters in place?

 

With 16 pen magnets through the pushrod holes to hold the lifters up off of the cam.

 

Hmmmm, well ok then...

 

Lol the cam job with magnets was pretty cool. Ok thanks a bunch and thanks for the lifter info on the buick motor. Who is mark? Btw.

 

Mark is cutlassefi

 

When you have roller lifters and they have a plastic glove, as does LS series of small blocks you remove the valve covers, loosen all rockers and remove pushrods. Turn the engine over by hand at least 2 full revolutions and the lifters lock up in the plastic gloves, rollers not on the lobes. Remove timing cover and t-chain, remove cam. We used a 2 piece timing cover so it was even quicker

 

LOL, the magnet's could work on a non roller engine but at that rate, I'd just pull the intake

 

I've never worked on or seen the inside of an LS engine, so I'm assuming these are what your talking about. Pretty cool.

 

they are indeed. When your doing cam swaps on these too it's best if you have a 2 piece t-cover cuz it's a whole process installing the cover due to the oil pump mounted behind the cam gear. I should have mentioned in the post as well. If you need to change lifters on the LS engine or Chrysler Hemi you need to remove the heads to do so so there's advantages and disadvantages or there design