I installed the ARH headers today. Right side goes in really easy no clearence issues, I have factory A/C it clears with no problems, I also have a Quicktme bellhousing for T56 clears that as well. Once the oil filter adaptor was off the header went in without jacking engine. Left side had a few issues #3 header tube needed to be flattened a little nothing major I called ARH before I did that. One tube comes close to the lower control arm mounting tab but it looks good. I ordered a Powermaster starter 9510 hopefully that works out. The top of the collector has a 2 1/4 clearence to the floor they don't hang low at all. One other issue is the left sid tube is close to the motor mount I might want to weld a nut to the mount due to clearence issues,other then that they look good.I have other pics but I'm not sure how to upload them.

 

Good to hear, I am about to place my order for my 65!

 

My ARH headers fit without any mods, this is on my 71Oldsmobile 442.

 

what size tubes do you have ?

 

My drivers side just hit the upper rear corner of the motor mount. I just ground the rubber on the mount to make it clear. Mine were 1 7/8" tubes on a 350.

 

I had a slight issue with the tube on the left with the engine mount also. I just clearanced the mount.

 

That's exactly what i did too.

 

BTW, the 9510 starter will fit perfectly.

 

Thanks for the update. Mine are arriving tomorrow. I went with 1 7/8 and 3 1/2 collector.

 

I thought they only came in 1-7/8"x3" or 2"x3-1/2". I've never heard of them in 1-7/8"x3-1/2". Mine are the 1-7/8"x3".

 

Honestly, for as much money as they charge they need to improve their customer service. In my last conversation with Steve, he said they are 1 7/8 with 3 1/2 collector. The whole ordering experience sucked at best.

 

Really? Nick went above and beyond to help me out. A vendor on here pretty much screwed me over for the cost of a set of headers by sending me BB ones instead of SB ones, and then pretty much said sorry about my luck. I gave Nick a call, and even though it had nothing to do with him, he shipped me out a set of the right ones, and even paid for all the shipping! Seems like great customer service to me!

 

I called and talked to Steve, gave him my dyno numbers and asked what size does he recommend. He said either 2" or 1 7/8", the only 2 sizes they offer so nothing I didn't know already. However he said he will talk to Nick and get back to me. I gave him my email address, so he replied in email "we can ship 1 7/8 or 2 inch". I replied with "how much to have the collector flanges welded", no answer. Next email I got was "order has been placed, what number I can reach you at". I was like WTF?????? After a brief conversation I was than told that either 1 7/8 or 2" would be ok for my car.
I figured whatever, so I asked for 1 7/8. He said order is placed and I would get a confirmation email. No email for a few days so I called him and asked about the order and about welding the flanges. No answer about flanges. Sent him a email asking about flanges getting welded, got an answer that he will email Phil and ask about the addition. Never heard back.
Finally I get a phone call that headers are done and payment is due.
I asked for a tracking number since this is not a $10 item and I really want to make sure I am there when they arrive. No answer.

For as much money as they charge Steve can afford some customer service classes.

 

Maybe that's where the difference is. As soon as I said who I bought them from someone, I thought his name was Dave, handed the phone over to Nick, and I delt directly with him.

 

The 9510 starter did fit nice, I was happy with that. I agree the ordering process could be much better. I wanted to get flange welded, but never herd back from them, I am glad now that I have no flange on mine, it seems much cleaner up front without the bulky flange, but I'm still undecided about that. It would have been nice to see different options on the website to make these decisions easier, I did have them weld in 02 sensor bungs for a future fuel injection conversion. As far as the tube size I should have went with 1 7/8 tube, I'm not really happy about modifying the one tube, but for a big tube header the fit is really nice, that's when you'll feel great satisfaction about the product.

 

Can you guys recommend a good header gasket, and header bolts to use. Thanks

 

I used FelPro gaskets and ARP ss 10 point bolts, but hex head might be a better choice.

 

has anybody tried the ARP header studs??

 

Finally got mine today.

 

They look nice, are you installing them soon? I was looking at the stage 8 bolts but there expensive. I was wondering if anyone has used them, and if they work.

 

Thanks. I am gonna try to install them this weekend. I decided to give header studs a shot and Flatout gaskets gaskets.

Doug's headers set me back 5 weeks, I was planning on shopping for a set of new rear tires by now.

 

[QUOTE=geoff442;762484]I installed the ARH headers today. Right side goes in really easy no clearence issues, I have factory A/C it clears with no problems, I also have a Quicktme bellhousing for T56 clears that as well. Once the oil filter adaptor was off the header went in without jacking engine. Left side had a few issues #3 header tube needed to be flattened a little nothing major I called ARH before I did that. One tube comes close to the lower control arm mounting tab but it looks good. I ordered a Powermaster starter 9510 hopefully that works out. The top of the collector has a 2 1/4 clearence to the floor they don't hang low at all. One other issue is the left sid tube is close to the motor mount I might want to weld a nut to the mount due to clearence issues,other then that they look good.I have other pics but I'm not sure how to upload them.[/QUOTE

Would you and the others who have made comments please advise year,model and engine the ARH headers were installed in. I've just heard about headers from ARH being made for 60's Abodies with SB engines and the comments would be more relevant if those details were known.Thanks

 

What does "clearanced the mount" mean? That's a new word for me.

 

I am disappointed that in the photos of the headers you received that there are welded/ joined tubes visible.How many welded/joined tubes are there?
Are you happy with that? The images that are on ARH's website do not have any joined and welded tubes which was one of the main reasons I liked them.

 

"Clearanced the mount" means I took a bit off the mount to clear the tube. In post #6 you can see what I removed in the pics.

 

These are hands down some of the best headers made and you are disappointed!! Maybe it is because you don't know a good header from a bad. I installed my 2" x3 1/2 into my 1970 442 Zero problems.

 

Thanks for all the detailed information in this thread. I've learned a lot. I'm considering ordering a set and had a couple of questions that you guys may be able to answer. My car is a '69 442 with the 400G and TH400 trans (currently has stock W/Z manifolds and a REALLY crappy Walker 2" exhaust system dating back to the '80's). I'd most definitely be going with the 1 7/8" tube diam.
1. I have a stock Delco starter. Will it be necessary to change over to a high torque mini starter for clearance or will the ARH headers clear the stock starter?
2. I read the comment about removing the oil filter adaptor on the passenger side. With the TH400, I also have 2 coolant lines that pass close to the filter (feed and return for the trans to the radiator). Anybody have experience installing these on an AT car? Should I expect interference with the coolant lines?

Thanks in advance. I could ask the vendor but I'm sure I'd be told that everything will be great and no problems whatsoever. I'd have a lot more confidence hearing from you guys.

 

You WILL NEED A POWERMASTER 9510 mini starter. You may have to reroute tranny lines. Yes you will need to remove oil filter adapter. My car has tranny lines like your talking about and turbo 400 tranny.I hope this helps.

 

Finally I got some to put the cutlass back together. I am really unhappy with ARH, driver side #3 tube needs to be massaged quite a bit, passenger side hits the transmission, neither side will clear the transmission crossmember. For the money they charged I was expecting a lot less problems.

 

That sucks man, it's weird that they won't clear your crossmember. Mine fits perfectly at the crossmember. What trans do you have? Where is the #3 tube hitting?

 

What motor mounts are you using? I didn't massage a thing or hit the tranny cross member. Man that just sucks if you are having problems.

 

I'm glad I bought 17/8" the headers fit perfectly, didn't have to ding the tubes at all.

 

How about posting up pictures showing the problems! That way it will be easier for others and myself to access problem areas. Did you notify ARH that you had a issue? Again i am sorry that you had problems.

 

X2 on pictures.

 

I assume the headers were installed in that beaut '70? 455BB 442? Hope you figure out how to load more photos.

 

What Old's model and engine did the headers get fitted to? It would be good to see an image of the area you modified after the headers were fitted to illustrate why it was necessary to mod the mount.Cheers

 

Now now behave.They are likely one of the best headers around especially as they are stainless steel and it looks like they make them for 60's A bodies with SB engines. That's the 2 main things that I was excited about.
I am sure you would know that every time you have a join in a tube the flow is altered however small that restriction may be.Never mind the fact that a bunch of extra welds just doesn't look as good a smooth,even,continuous tubing as ARH demonstrate.
What I was concerned about was that in the images I have seen on the ARH website no welded tubes were shown so either the ones in the photos were a specially made one off just for "promotional purposes" or the images were deliberately altered. Most likely the latter but either way less than honest.However I am still keen on these headers for the reasons explained but I want to read some feedback from owners of similar cars to mine.
Enough said.

 

ARH and who else makes a 2"x3 1/2 header stainless steel for bbo that fits between the frame rails besides kooks if they still make them?

 

Here is a comparison between out of the box from ARH and my modification that was needed needed to fit the headers. I know it doesn't look the greatest but it was like building a house and starting with a roof. But it's not visible and it fits like a glove.

Why is the #3 so far out is beyond me, obviously there is plenty of room between 1 and 5. I would like to know what car they used for mock up. Seems like I am not the only one with a problem with #3 tube, and for ARH to instruct a customer to flatten the tube on a $1100 set is absurd.
I partly agree with Sarum on the looks, if Chinese can get their header smooth and shiny for less than $200 you would think for $1100 these would look a little better.




Before


After

 

I'm doing the same type of repair on my header tube, when it's done I'll post a picture. I'm disappointed that I have to waist so much time screwing around with this.