72 s coupe

350 55k miles
stock cam/pistons
#4 (60cc) heads w 3 angle valve job and bigger stock sized valves
fel pro gaskets (considering steel shim type, share your .02)
performance curved HEI
Performer 350 intake
650 holley 4bbl
1" open spacer
Thorley headers
2 1/4" x pipe flowmaster 40 delta flow exhaust
th350 w shift kit and stock converter
3.42 LSD
10" wide street radial tires
mechanical fan

Guesses? How much hp gained from stock? Is your project similar? Please share!

Car was sold, sat for 15 years, returned to me undriven so were currently replacing the steering column, (someone tried/failed to steal it) freshening things, and adding the new heads (eroded valve seat on 7a heads).

cant find much, and youtube failed to find me many dragstrip passes. Car was what, 180 stock? (72 2bbl single exhaust) What may those bolt ons have done? Would love to be faster than 15 flat...

 

With some fine tuning and tweaking I think mid 14's are attainable but I think as is 15's mid 15's is realistic.

 

You might have gained to about 225 with those addons

 

Maybe more I didn't take into account the trans and gear

 

No where near close if those add ons added 225 he would be over 400 hp. Not realistic.

 

no I meant he gained to around 225 like from 180 to 225

 

225 was my guess... will steel gaskets seal on a used block if the deck isn't machined? the heads are fresh. I'm looking for a head gasket comparison chart to see what my options are as we speak too. would the 1/2 point of compression be worth it, or should I just use thick gaskets so I don't have to worry about re-torquing or sealing?

 

That's more realistic but I think the hp will be a little lower still.

 

thinking cometic coated steel at .021 compressed thickness might be a good option.... not cheap though. sounds like would seal well, but how does one determine their "roughness average" or "RA" number? a maximum RA of 50 is required for these to seal right and thats gibberish to me.

 

Smitty @ mj proformance sells steel shims. I think if you are using them on a non decked surface you have to use the spray copper spray stuff on them.

 

wait 105 is price for EACH of those gaskets, scratch that. Steel will do w coating then eh? cool. how much do they run, and is it even worth it? Sealed power gasket set is 35 bucks total. 1/2 point of compression might not be worth it.

 

I think the shims run 110 ish for the pair Well worth it if you are trying to run a mild cam. Any compression you can gain up or maintain is good. Also if you are running #4 heads like 60's #4's those chambers might be smaller cc's 64 or less. Not from my experience but a friend of mine cc'd a set and avg. was 61 cc's !!!!!! cc the heads if you can then down the road if you decide to do a cam swap you know where your compression is at.

 

heads are 60 cc heads with slightly bigger (w-31?) valves and a 3 angle valve job, no porting.

 

You will have 8.75 to 1 compression appx if your pistons are .025 in the cyl. and the pistons are the big dish 23 cc pistons. You could run a mild cam. cam and lifter set from howards runs 170 through summit racing .

 

just tryna get it back on the road baselines first, then cam+underdrives+electric fan (not necessarily in that order) (PS I know UD's are silly btw, but pulling your belts is worth ET. period!)

 

and was told w fel pros id LOSE a lil compression vs 7a's w stock gaskets

 

I always ran a hundreth faster when I threw a belt during my burn out. the difference between a 14.0 and a 13.99 was me throwing the belt or not during my burn out then putting it on on the return road not on pourpose I had belt issues . I went from running 13.99 - 14.0 to 13.86 with an x pipe. Then went 13.71 with fiberglass fenders and hood. I eventually built a different combo that went low 13's and currently am yet to get this current combo to the track which I think should scrape 12's.

 

was worth a whole .8 of a second and 4 mph in a 360 powered 72 f250 lol I was amazed.

 

Low 15's, that is what most run. Get the shim head gaskets, your pistons will be at least .025" in the hole. That awesome cam sure won't help.

 

according to this site the cam isn't much smaller than the smallest comp grinds in the catalog.... the most similar advertises a 1000-5000 powerband. ...howd u do the TBI on the olds? a 307 distributor? i tune the old camaro tbi ecus and would love to learn more about putting that system on an olds.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1178&sb=2 255 adv duration split profile

 

low 15's < gsr swap in a civic (14.4x@108-109)
low 15's < d series motor w SI tranny in a crx (14.8 @ 105)
low 15's < any turbo kit on any import

lamesauce. my 1991 355 swapped tbi rs camaro ran that fast with 2.7x gears and stock exhaust manifolds

 

I ran a comp 260h on my 9 to 1 combo. 13.86 through the mufflers .

 

on slicks right?

 

Drag radials.

 

i have a mondello jm-18-20 hydraulic cam, my dad is claiming it for a 425 project but it's mine, (see bowser59's post at http://forums.carcraft.com/70/669777...good-camshaft/ my birthday was two days later) and i think its a smaller grind than the stock 425 cam. Is that correct? IMO its too small for a big block. Is it also too big for a 350 at this compression level?

specs

http://www.mondellotwister.com/Camshafts.htm

 

To run TBI on an Olds 350 get a CCC 307 distributor and a Qjet to TBI adapter from an early TBI 454. I run this in my 94 chevy 4x4. You just need to run 10 to 20 base timing up from the stock 0 setting. I am running 21 base and it cranks a bit slow hot. My truck compares or betters LS 5.3/4L70E combo with shorter tires that I have drove extensively compared to my Olds 350/4L60E. Of course that is in the idle to 4500 rpm, above the LS really shines.

 

are there posts relating to your conversion? was highway economy improved? which ecu did u use? ive never much played with the chevy truck ecu's highway mode...

 

@coppercutlass- read on a home porting post that someone did some work to your heads? How'd that turn out? I'm not trying to do anything major, but grinding the EGR bump in the exhaust, cleaning up production flash and smoothing out the intake runners, and teardropping where the valve stem comes out seems totally doable. I'm a little more scared to remove the turbulence ridge in the combustion chamber (if my heads have that? idk) being that I'm currently doing nothing to improve quench or chamber shape, and the motor is gonna need to be happy idling around town.

would the minor head modifications be worthwhile in my quest to be in the 14's or will benefits be negligible with a stock cam and compression?

worth the effort? or waste of time

 

That build should be well in the 12's but it's not together just yet.