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I'm trying to figure out what's going on there with the rocker arms. They are obviously offset but what I don't get is why they aren't symmetrical from one end to the other? I have a set and they are a mirror image from one end to the other.
Okay fill me in. Are those the 2nd generation heads? Why don't you PM me if you don't mind for other questions.
Yes those are Gen II’s.
Chadman I think Bill moves the pushrod tubes “out of the way a bit” which isn’t the same on every port. You can see amount of epoxy on the top. That tells me a lot has been changed there.
Jmo.
The set I have are for moved pushrods as well. I'm just trying to figure out why they wouldn't be moved the same from one end to the other. I could see the inner ports possibly being different from the outer ports but I don't see why they wouldn't be a mirror image from end to end.
I think it may be because of the spacers that have to be between the rockers on the shaft and the way they line up with the push rods.
But I’m not 100% on that.
I do know that Bill starts out with raw castings and machines everything in the position he wants.
Blank canvas.
These are my T&Ds for a set of Edelbrocks I have with moved pushrods for comparison. I'm not saying yours are wrong I'm just trying to figure out the reasoning behind it.
I think it may be because of the spacers that have to be between the rockers on the shaft and the way they line up with the push rods.
But I’m not 100% on that.
I do know that Bill starts out with raw castings and machines everything in the position he wants.
Blank canvas.
-p
The two intake rockers on the right in this picture are what have me confused. They are offset towards the ports as opposed to away from them like the two on the left side of the head.
Those look fantastic Peter
Always nice to see what can be done in the hands of someone capable.
These should help motivate the Olds. What intake are your going with ?
Glen
I’ve been super slow getting my junk back together. Finding the ‘65 up in Tennessee slowed me down by a week.
Just trying to clean things up as I bolt it all back together. But it’s getting close. Should start it up tomorrow night.
Not fond of how tall this victor is…plus the 5400 flange has made me use a 2” adapter to a 4150 carb
Now I have to run a drop base air cleaner bottom.
-peter
Chad, the goals are about the same as I have. Not really looking for more power. 623/626 is fine by me.(with old heads)
I was just trying to get a package that will survive and be more stable than I felt the last heads were.
Plus trying to get something together to prepare for the RR block build that eventually come.
It will be interesting to see if I pick up any though.
10.75 is my best. 10.5x would be nice!
Flemming...I really do think it needs a bit more CFM...it's only 850 right now.
-but not crazy about the drivability of a dominator!
I like to cruise this thing!
ProStreet442@aol.com Frank will hook you up. He was trying to get me to get one, but I wanted EFI. Now that I got their junk sensors replaced, it actually works pretty well
Chad, the goals are about the same as I have. Not really looking for more power. 623/626 is fine by me.(with old heads)
I was just trying to get a package that will survive and be more stable than I felt the last heads were.
Plus trying to get something together to prepare for the RR block build that eventually come.
It will be interesting to see if I pick up any though.
10.75 is my best. 10.5x would be nice!
Flemming...I really do think it needs a bit more CFM...it's only 850 right now.
-but not crazy about the drivability of a dominator!
I like to cruise this thing!
-peter
So, put a 1050 2-circuit Dominator on it, and it WILL start up well cold, WILL cruise perfectly, and WILL be MUCH more throttle responsive than your 4150. I run a Quick Fuel QFX 2-circuit 1050 Dominator on my 505" big Olds, and it is THE best starting, best cruising, and MOST responsive carburetor that I've EVER ran on a street car bar none. There is SO many tuning options inside of a carb such as this today, that you can fine tune every part of each circuit to work perfectly with pretty much any engine, as long as the carb is sized correctly for it. I did have to jet the carb way up out of the box for my particular engine. I ended up with 100's in the back, and 90's in the front with a 3.5 power valve. But this thing drives like it's E.F.I. The cold starts in summer aren't bad either. Warm it up for 60 seconds with your foot on the pedal, and then she's good to go.
Most people people trouble with a Dominator in the street because their engine either isn't radical or large enough for it, or they found a "deal" on a used Dominator, and it's a 3-circuit model that has been tuned WAY off of what it was out of the box, and runs like **** for their particular combo. Stay AWAY from a 3-circuit for under a 700-750h.p. motor that you want to drive on the street. It'll be pig fat during cruise, and will load up plugs. A 2-circuit is simply a bigger brother to your 4150, and tunes exactly the same. If you're making 600+ h.p., a 2-circuit 1050 WOULD work really well on the street. I say GO for it. Yep, they're expensive, but buy a new one. I will NEVER go back to a 4150 again for an engine like mine. The 4500 is just that much better.
That’s an interesting idea for sure.
I have a 4500 flange on my intake as it is…(it was covid and it was all I could find, so I had to add that stupid conversion plate)
I was thinking of a 950 with a dominator base plate which they make.
Tell me more about your combo.
A 496 and a 510 aren’t that far apart.
That’s an interesting idea for sure.
I have a 4500 flange on my intake as it is…(it was covid and it was all I could find, so I had to add that stupid conversion plate)
I was thinking of a 950 with a dominator base plate which they make.
Tell me more about your combo.
A 496 and a 510 aren’t that far apart.
It's a Rocket block/billet crank bottom end, 13:1 compression, with some fully CNC ported Rocket heads on it. Solid roller cam with bushed roller lifters, shaft rockers, with the new Rocket 4500 intake and a 1050 Quick Fuel QFX 2 -circuit carb. Crank trigger with an MSD 6-AL2 programmable. 730+h.p., 685tq. and would make more with a 1250 carb and a larger cam. The current solid roller cam is rather tame for this engine, and is easy on the valve train. I drive this car on the street to shows and cruises during the summer. Unfortunately, I have to run race fuel because of the compression, but I knew that going into it.
That’s an interesting idea for sure.
I have a 4500 flange on my intake as it is…(it was covid and it was all I could find, so I had to add that stupid conversion plate)
I was thinking of a 950 with a dominator base plate which they make.
Tell me more about your combo.
A 496 and a 510 aren’t that far apart.
I DO have a set of 10-hole annular discharge stepped boosters for a Quick Fuel QFX 1050 here, that will turn it into a 975cfm carb if you would want them. They're easy to change. Pull the bowls, use a slide hammer to pull the hollow pins going into the booster, pull the booster out, slap the new booster in, and drive the pins back in. Simple. The 975cfm boosters I have here are red colored billet.
Wow, that’s a lot more compression than I have. Sounds like a mean motor.
Without having a rocket block, I’m right at the edge of longevity as is I think.
Ive looked at going with a bigger carb and I probably will someday. There’s definitely other benefits when you’re bracket racing to having a slightly bigger carb.
But right now it’s just a street brawler while I finish up a restoration on a 65.
