After 20 plus years with this oil pan, I finally did it. I caught the saddle of my floor jack on the pan, splitting a seam and spilling most of the contents on the garage floor. What a mess!!!

It isn’t easy, but the aftermarket 8 quart pans will come out with the engine in place. My question: in Bill Travato book he say not to run a crank scraper, windage tray, etc. I have had this Mondello windage tray in the engine since I put the pan on. I’m not sure what pan I had (Milodon?) but it is shaped differently than the Moroso (which I thought I had). I’m not sure if the tray will clear the oil pan.


Basically, I’m looking for opinions, expert advice, experience, etc. Am I missing some power with the tray?

 

I have a engine that has a crank scraper and it is a moroso pan. Question back why does Bill say not to use windage trays and crank scraper?

 

Bill tests and validates with the dyno and down track performance.
Unless you test and validate you will never no if there is a gain or loss in performance.
Bill likes the Moroso unidirectional screen,that said unless it is well designed and fitted with out proven testing its just a guess.
The magazine used to suggest an advantage in running the Tornado 5 quart pan. After testing it was found to hurt performance -10 hp.
I still see Tornado pans for sale today, why?
The stock and supper stock racers use trays and scrapers. The difference they are tested on the dyno and down track with many RD hours invested.

 

Matt you might want to check out this pan before you buy another. I had this pan in my hands at a trade show and was very impressed by build quality.
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...SAAEgK90fD_BwE

 

I’m a fan of the Canton pan. I used both Milodon and Moroso pans for years until a rash of leaks on both forced me to switch. Best thing I ever did.
The Canton Pan has trap doors and is made of heavier gauge steel than the others. And you won’t miss the crank scraper. Don’t sweat it.

 

Well, getting the Milodon pan out was bad enough, the Moroso was worse to reinstall. Now, as a added kick in the teeth, it seems the oil pickup is hitting the baffle in the pan. It won’t fit flush against the block.


I think I’m going to pull the engine. I can’t see what is hitting, and am really starting to lose patience. I’m nearing the end of the other projects, mangling the oil pan really pushed back progress.

 

I think I’m going to return this Moroso pan and try the canton. I’d prefer the full 7 quart capacity, but who am I to question the advice here?

 

Bernhard wrote:
You should question internet advice !! This is a long term problem with Oldsmobile engine builds to much bad advice from so called pros and Joe's.
I just said look at your options then decide, I just commented on build quality. I have looked at many aftermarket pans and the Canton pan was well built. The only knock is that it is a heavy pan because it is so well built.
Do a search on Real Olds power and facebook under fast Oldsmobile for more opinions.
Good luck

 

There are two issues with the Toro pan: 1. it has a hump to clear the front axle that should be heated and pounded flat with the rest of the pan so oil is not retained up front; 2. it has no baffles in the sump to prevent oil climbing up the back wall on accel, and the front wall on decel. The side scraper is OK, but could be closer to the crank, or better use the Ishihara Johnson scraper. The point of an 8 quart pan is not to fill it so the oil is on the crank, like with a stocker at stock fill level. Fill it to a lower level, such as 6-7 qt. I have always used either a skid plate under the pan, or a strap mount made of angle iron and tubing mounted to the bottom of the crossmember and lower than the pan.

 

I always run the 8 quart pan one quart low just for the reason you mention. Even a quart low, it still has almost double the stock pan capacity.

I learned long ago not to believe everything online. However, after reading some of the replies it isn’t hard to figure out who knows what they are talking (writing?) about.

 

I've never had good luck changing a pan with the engine still in the car. By the time you loosen everything up to get the engine jacked up, your just a few bolts and wires from pulling it. Your not the first to mess up a pan with a jack. Don't ask me how I know.

 

As I mentioned in my first comment, I have had this pan for about 20 plus years, and was always careful with the jack. This time, not careful enough. I think I will bolt a small skid plate to the engine crossmember. If nothing else, that will prevent another bonehead move.

 

Or a jack slip...

 

I've had good luck with Rocket Racing oil pan. Whatever you do, don't buy Milodon.

 

Bernhard wrote :
Nice

 

Bernhard wrote
What pan are you running?

 

Bernhard wrote:
Thanks for the reply
How much performance did you find in a well designed crank scraper?
https://www.crank-scrapers.com/Oldsmobile.html