The New List..
#1
The New List..
of parts for my 442 this winter.
ATI SFI flexplate
BMR antiroll bar
M/T SR Radial fronts
Moros trick front springs 250 in lbs
Braille Lightweight battery 22lbs compared to my 43 lb Optima redtop
New header and collector gaskets
Possible parts are an x-pipe and better torque converter.
See what Santa brings me, been good all year...
ATI SFI flexplate
BMR antiroll bar
M/T SR Radial fronts
Moros trick front springs 250 in lbs
Braille Lightweight battery 22lbs compared to my 43 lb Optima redtop
New header and collector gaskets
Possible parts are an x-pipe and better torque converter.
See what Santa brings me, been good all year...
Last edited by jims2000lt; November 9th, 2012 at 01:58 PM.
#5
When you put the Moroso trick front springs in, give them time to settle or break in, if the frontend is sitting a little higher than it is now or what you would like because they will sag after awhile. I watch people cut them to get the ride height right but after awhile they wished they didn't. That's why you shouldn't buy used springs off chinabay.
I hope you done your home work when it comes to selecting spring rates, you have to take into consideration if a fiberglass hood is being used, if battery is in trunk, which I see isn't by your purchase list, if you have fiberglass front bumper etc.
If this is a street car, I would advise against Moroso springs, they'll wear out on the street and you don't want to jump on the throttle in the slightest of turns.
For a street/strip car, I would replace the springs if you really think it's necessary with some stock replacement springs for a A body with small block or 6 cylinder. I don't recommend 90/10 shocks for street/strip either, 70/30's are a better choice.
But these are just my opinion and we all know, everyone has one.
I hope you done your home work when it comes to selecting spring rates, you have to take into consideration if a fiberglass hood is being used, if battery is in trunk, which I see isn't by your purchase list, if you have fiberglass front bumper etc.
If this is a street car, I would advise against Moroso springs, they'll wear out on the street and you don't want to jump on the throttle in the slightest of turns.
For a street/strip car, I would replace the springs if you really think it's necessary with some stock replacement springs for a A body with small block or 6 cylinder. I don't recommend 90/10 shocks for street/strip either, 70/30's are a better choice.
But these are just my opinion and we all know, everyone has one.
#8
Why dont you just take your current converter out and send it out to be re worked when I looked into it for mine midwest converter said to re work the 10 in. unit i had would run 150 roughly.
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
A ten inch converter will not get it done, and weight would be one of the problems.
#10
Sorry Copper but I disagree. I used cheap converters for years and got by. Finally went with name brand and what a difference! I eventually went with Coan and I'm totally satisfied. There are plenty of companies out there that are good and give good advice as long as you are honest with them. Be prepaired to spend some healthy bucks but it is worth it.
#11
I was sending my 10 in. Out vortect. I didn't say he needs a 10 in. Converter. 380 I agree the 10 in. Converter I had was wayyy too loose. Which is why I called around to see who would take it apart and re work the internals. It was either atd or midwest converters both where resonablly priced.either way I'm screwed but I know companies like tci,hughesn,acc, all will re stall their brand name converters at a resonable price. I talked to a rep from acc at the preformance and race expo and he said any acc product could be re worked for 60 bucks regardless of how old as long as it carried their part number.
Last edited by coppercutlass; November 10th, 2012 at 05:32 AM.
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
I need to know your gear change RPM, and RPM @ the stripe. Do you plan to go through the trans? Theres some things there you can do that are inexpensive.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; November 10th, 2012 at 05:55 AM.
#14
Shift at 5600 and 5300 at the stripe. Really dont want to change the rear gear but I'm planning on getting a trailer in the spring so the car can become alittle more strip than street.
Never rally gained or noticed anything when I installed this converter over the old TCI 11". Sixty foot were 1.60 with old 2400-2600 rated converter.
Never rally gained or noticed anything when I installed this converter over the old TCI 11". Sixty foot were 1.60 with old 2400-2600 rated converter.
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Shift at 5600 and 5300 at the stripe. Really dont want to change the rear gear but I'm planning on getting a trailer in the spring so the car can become alittle more strip than street.
Never rally gained or noticed anything when I installed this converter over the old TCI 11". Sixty foot were 1.60 with old 2400-2600 rated converter.
Never rally gained or noticed anything when I installed this converter over the old TCI 11". Sixty foot were 1.60 with old 2400-2600 rated converter.
#16
Sorry, had to sleep a bit, midnites this weekend YaY! The last time I raced my ?Olds I honestly never watched the tach at the starting line during launch.
I know this doesnt help but I didnt want to make up a number.
The old TCI 11" would flash to 3100rpm and was a good converter all around but its long been sold.
Let me know if theres anymore info I (do) have that will help.
Thanks, Jim
I know this doesnt help but I didnt want to make up a number.
The old TCI 11" would flash to 3100rpm and was a good converter all around but its long been sold.
Let me know if theres anymore info I (do) have that will help.
Thanks, Jim
#17
I have a set of Moroso 47140 springs, used a short while. I went with a stiffer/longer spring and would like to get them off my shelf. I also have misc. other springs to get rid of. I've tried darn near everything in my 1966, except a good driver lol.
#18
Cool. I'll pm you after this weekend and we'll work out a deal. Thanks
#19
Spring rates
Hi Jim, I installed Moroso trick springs with 242lbs spring rate part no 47160 on my 72 Cutlass and it rides and sits great. This was taking into account ally heads and intake, and glass hood and front bumper. I use a 10in BnM Holeshot 3000 converter but did blow it to bits once and had to have it rebuilt but seems ok now, though you may feel you trade off a bit of torque so 2400 may be ok depending what cam you running. I use 3.73 gears in the rear, perfect for street and strip, good luck, Paul, U.K. 11.83 on motor 10.73 with gas.DPP07DA0501140E36[2].jpg
#21
Sorry Copper but I disagree. I used cheap converters for years and got by. Finally went with name brand and what a difference! I eventually went with Coan and I'm totally satisfied. There are plenty of companies out there that are good and give good advice as long as you are honest with them. Be prepaired to spend some healthy bucks but it is worth it.
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