Internal vs external balance
Internal vs external balance
What are the pros and cons for internal and external balance? What is the typical cost difference? Is it worth the cost for a street motor(432 stock rod and stroke)? Starting from scratch no flywheel(stick shift) or balancer. Thank you!
I have BOTH in BBc's. Internals like to rev more and theoretically easier on crank/main bearings. Look at it this was, 396 and 427 Chevs were internal, 454 were external balanced when these come from GM.
I much prefer internal over external, but if it's more then $200 or $300 on a stock motor, I WOULD NOT DO IT. My alum block 515 BBc is external and should be around 840Hp and my 522 is external and should make 780Hp. In those it wasn't worth the cost/effort to swap to internal balanced. Now for me, that means I HAVE to stock internal AND external flex places and balancers seeing as I have multiple engine.
I much prefer internal over external, but if it's more then $200 or $300 on a stock motor, I WOULD NOT DO IT. My alum block 515 BBc is external and should be around 840Hp and my 522 is external and should make 780Hp. In those it wasn't worth the cost/effort to swap to internal balanced. Now for me, that means I HAVE to stock internal AND external flex places and balancers seeing as I have multiple engine.
I did, and I like it. I was originally going 496, but the Eagle crank needed too much Mallory for internal balancing. Given the controversy over crank flex, I like having the counterweight closer to the centerline.
I got a neutral balance flywheel in an early (64-67) pattern from Science Friction. I think they are/were affiliated with American Powertrain.
I got a neutral balance flywheel in an early (64-67) pattern from Science Friction. I think they are/were affiliated with American Powertrain.
Internal makes it easier to swap balancers etc.
And even though they’re bringing it INTO balance, it never seemed logical to me to hang the weights out at the ends.
And if your dealing with less than stout parts, like virtually ALL Olds blocks, potentially less flex can only be a good thing. I do more and more internal stuff.
And even though they’re bringing it INTO balance, it never seemed logical to me to hang the weights out at the ends.
And if your dealing with less than stout parts, like virtually ALL Olds blocks, potentially less flex can only be a good thing. I do more and more internal stuff.
Last edited by cutlassefi; Aug 18, 2022 at 03:12 PM.
If you don't have a damper and flywheel the price of those will be the same either way, or pretty close. I have never done an Olds internal but if it takes 4 slugs of heavy metal you would be looking at about $790 for the balance job if I did it. That's $350 for the basic balance job and an additional $440 for the heavy metal and installing it.
Is it worth it for a street engine with an occasional romp ? Not sure. There are literally millions of 454 Chevy engines running around that are external balance. All of the Mercruiser Big Blocks are external balance and they run at 4500 rpm under full load for hours at a time ?
The only unknown for me is how the Olds cranks hold up under crazy stress because I have not built enough of them that are really getting beat on. I am betting that there are plenty of them driving around and down the drag strip that it really is not a problem
Is it worth it for a street engine with an occasional romp ? Not sure. There are literally millions of 454 Chevy engines running around that are external balance. All of the Mercruiser Big Blocks are external balance and they run at 4500 rpm under full load for hours at a time ?
The only unknown for me is how the Olds cranks hold up under crazy stress because I have not built enough of them that are really getting beat on. I am betting that there are plenty of them driving around and down the drag strip that it really is not a problem
I believe $1500 CAD😱! I should have heaved the old 330 crank in the scrap metal pile and bought the billet 4" stroke crank from Mark. I have another 330 crank already offset ground. It sounds like it will need similar Mallory for internal balancing 🤔.
@ that much, these MILD low rpm Olds engine fo NOT need internal baanced cranks. Since I'm actuually going to be building a Olds, my thoughts are IF YOUR NOT reving over 6500 or not making 650Hp, you don't need internal balance.
You might get a bit extra life but really not like your only getting 20000 mile on external and 320000 with internal.
Is internal better, YES for sure. Just the cost outweighs the benefits in a street motor of these tyoes.
You might get a bit extra life but really not like your only getting 20000 mile on external and 320000 with internal.
Is internal better, YES for sure. Just the cost outweighs the benefits in a street motor of these tyoes.
So you’re going to use a solid roller in it, which is waaaay more beneficial at higher rpms, but you’re not going to internally balance it, because that’s for higher rpm engines. Hmmmm, interesting.
Just sayin, that’s all.
Just sayin, that’s all.
@ that much, these MILD low rpm Olds engine fo NOT need internal baanced cranks. Since I'm actuually going to be building a Olds, my thoughts are IF YOUR NOT reving over 6500 or not making 650Hp, you don't need internal balance.
You might get a bit extra life but really not like your only getting 20000 mile on external and 320000 with internal.
Is internal better, YES for sure. Just the cost outweighs the benefits in a street motor of these tyoes.
You might get a bit extra life but really not like your only getting 20000 mile on external and 320000 with internal.
Is internal better, YES for sure. Just the cost outweighs the benefits in a street motor of these tyoes.
But $1500 as mntioned above, and no difference in performance doesn't equate well to me. I also run conical springs on all my stuff as we ave seen a performance advantage there as well.
Last edited by New2oldsw30; Aug 19, 2022 at 10:23 AM.
40 yrs in this "hobby" and being involved with many many different types of cars, you get to learn a thing or two. Having 6 cars and 10 engines, you learn where you can cut corners and where you shouldn't.
I gave the OP and idea when he should look at going internal with an Olds. What perameters do you have to justify spending the extra to go internal?
i would say about 100% of the Olds’ out there running low 12’s or 11.80’s are external balanced…it’s not an issue at that power and RPM potential . Your stock rods could be though
what piston are you using?
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; Aug 19, 2022 at 10:45 AM.
Is Mark's stroker crank internal balanced?
then forget about the internal balance. Put your money into aftermarket rods or a light piston with the stock rods.
i would say about 100% of the Olds’ out there running low 12’s or 11.80’s are external balanced…it’s not an issue at that power and RPM potential . Your stock rods could be though
what piston are you using?
i would say about 100% of the Olds’ out there running low 12’s or 11.80’s are external balanced…it’s not an issue at that power and RPM potential . Your stock rods could be though
what piston are you using?
Last edited by wr1970; Aug 23, 2022 at 07:04 AM.
Another reason to run one of your stroker cranks.
Do you offer a big block crank with stock stroke and journal size that is internally balanced?
The funny part is you just PROVED what Dale stated! YOUR very own engine run 11.20 and is external. You have such a warped view on things you as straight as a dogs hind leg!!!!
You have made it to the ignore list....... So say whatever you choose to.
Last edited by New2oldsw30; Aug 23, 2022 at 10:29 AM.
Man your an ignorant person! I can see why people have PM'ed me to get away from this site................... WOW 11.20's way to go there Big Daddy!!! John Force better watch out????
The funny part is you just PROVED what Dale stated! YOUR very own engine run 11.20 and is external. You have such a warped view on things you as straight as a dogs hind leg!!!!
You have made it to the ignore list....... So say whatever you choose to.
The funny part is you just PROVED what Dale stated! YOUR very own engine run 11.20 and is external. You have such a warped view on things you as straight as a dogs hind leg!!!!
You have made it to the ignore list....... So say whatever you choose to.
Last edited by wr1970; Aug 23, 2022 at 01:05 PM.
I would tend to agree. Hell even BBc usually use SB 2.100 journals to get away from the 2.200 standard BBc stuff. I would think going from standard OLDS 2.500" down to standard BBc 2.200" would be a good thing and even open up to more BBC off-the-shelf parts like rods and pistons. I know Wiseco told me I could move the pin height on any standard piston for $100/set 3 yrs ago???? Now going to the SB 2.100" stuff would get to be some oddball custom rods I would think.
Yes all of us know that the 2.200 rod journal is better. I'm talking from a strictly sales perspective. Most guys just want to be able to buy "shelf" parts from Summit listed for that particular engine family.
Last edited by cutlassefi; Aug 24, 2022 at 07:59 AM.
Agree on the 2.2 pin being a perceived barrier. Really, all Scat had to do was have someone produce a "shelf" piston for that combo, since 6.8 or 7.1 Chevy rods are common. And all that shelf piston would be is a pin height/diameter change from what exists now.
Oh, and I get everything internally balanced. Anytime the counterweight is closer to the weight its offsetting, it's a good thing. The only downside is cost.
Oh, and I get everything internally balanced. Anytime the counterweight is closer to the weight its offsetting, it's a good thing. The only downside is cost.
Thank you, you hit the nail on the head Chad!! Some moron on Facebook actually asked why I didn’t suggest changing the port locations on the new Edelbrock heads. I pointed out that then Edelbrock would have to re-cast all of their intakes, AND all of their other intakes would be useless. People don’t get it, 80% of the people on here and other sites just want to do what you mentioned, just bolt on and go. The reverse is true on my small block Stroker crank. That’s the reason why I made the rod journals small block Chevy, and common dimensions for Pistons as well. The counter weight and piston configuration would’ve had to be totally different had I utilized the stock small block Oldsmobile rod. Again Chad, thank you for seeing the bigger picture.
there isn’t enough market for tow of them.
Agree on the 2.2 pin being a perceived barrier. Really, all Scat had to do was have someone produce a "shelf" piston for that combo, since 6.8 or 7.1 Chevy rods are common. And all that shelf piston would be is a pin height/diameter change from what exists now.
Oh, and I get everything internally balanced. Anytime the counterweight is closer to the weight its offsetting, it's a good thing. The only downside is cost.
Oh, and I get everything internally balanced. Anytime the counterweight is closer to the weight its offsetting, it's a good thing. The only downside is cost.


