High RPM 455
#1
High RPM 455
Just trying to learn these BBo. I know BBc and y OLDS buddy just says "take all you know about BBc and throw it out!".
So on an aggressive street 455, what is comsidered safe RPMlimit and what would be HIGH RPMs?
Now my BBc 498 shifts @9800 with a ingle 4500, and 10,400 or so with 2 x 4500 on the tunnelram.
Now thinking the 455 should RPM 6500 to 7000?
What do you guys think? I know what supporting RPMs can require as far as induction, cam and timing etc. Just wondering about bottom end mechanicals.
Thanks John
So on an aggressive street 455, what is comsidered safe RPMlimit and what would be HIGH RPMs?
Now my BBc 498 shifts @9800 with a ingle 4500, and 10,400 or so with 2 x 4500 on the tunnelram.
Now thinking the 455 should RPM 6500 to 7000?
What do you guys think? I know what supporting RPMs can require as far as induction, cam and timing etc. Just wondering about bottom end mechanicals.
Thanks John
#2
All the basics apply:
Light rotating assembly
Good machine work
Good balancing
There are a few girdles out there that tie the mains to the pan rails.
I think the rpms are more limited by head flow more than anything.
I have mine limited at 6300 presently, just for longevity mainly. That's with an offset ground 425 crank, BME rods, short CP Bullets, a medium cam, and 1st gen Edelbrock heads that have bigger valves,and port work. It might be out of breath, but won't know for sure without strapping it to rollers.
Light rotating assembly
Good machine work
Good balancing
There are a few girdles out there that tie the mains to the pan rails.
I think the rpms are more limited by head flow more than anything.
I have mine limited at 6300 presently, just for longevity mainly. That's with an offset ground 425 crank, BME rods, short CP Bullets, a medium cam, and 1st gen Edelbrock heads that have bigger valves,and port work. It might be out of breath, but won't know for sure without strapping it to rollers.
#3
The 455 can spin to 6k easy. I slapped together a totally clapper 455 with ported J heads and with no testing and only one time out we managed an 11.64 lol. Trans was dying and we are almost positive we spun the #3 and ,4 rod bearings on the second pass when the rev limiter wasnt set. Pretty sure it saw 7k rpm. That engine has stock rods , stock crank , studs and main straps. Although it was a hunk of questions. The rod ends where actually still within size when I measured them and it saw nitrous before I dug into it in a previous life.
Now my 350 olds stock rods , stock crank , light pistons and it spins to 7k
The big block can spin but I think this is where most guys would opt for the 425 crank since it's forged and has a much better stroke imo for racing purposes . People have done all kinds of stuff and many have had success and many have had failure.
Now my 350 olds stock rods , stock crank , light pistons and it spins to 7k
The big block can spin but I think this is where most guys would opt for the 425 crank since it's forged and has a much better stroke imo for racing purposes . People have done all kinds of stuff and many have had success and many have had failure.
#5
Ok will do, I think buddy has the small camera. Just better to know what the fall disassembly might run into. Really just like to ring and bearing the bottom end, maybe straps and ARP hardware if it's not there. Hoping to just do a top end and cam change.
Was originally hoping to break the 600Hp mark, but being more realistc as I learn the OLDS engines. 500 to 550 is more realistic now. And IF it does infact have aftermarket forged crank and rods, might just look at a nitrous set up for track days.
But I am impressed with the ETs some of your stuff did to!
Was originally hoping to break the 600Hp mark, but being more realistc as I learn the OLDS engines. 500 to 550 is more realistic now. And IF it does infact have aftermarket forged crank and rods, might just look at a nitrous set up for track days.
But I am impressed with the ETs some of your stuff did to!
Last edited by New2oldsw30; July 9th, 2022 at 03:05 PM.
#7
I’m not a professional engine builder, or machinist. But from what I have been told (and my own experience) a 455 will live a long live at 5500-5800. The more RPM, the life typically goes down. Use lighter pistons and rods, the safe limit goes up. I don’t think you will find a olds engine builder who thinks very highly of stock rods. That’s not to say they are junk, they just have limits.
#9
Yep this info seems to going against what we have found to be the normal with various Fords and Chevys. We are getting away from light weight rotating assemblies for a stronger moe durable properly weighted assemblies. Heck even NHRA 500 ProStock has goone away from Aluminum rods for steel.
Now saying a better designed piston that is lighter is good and better then an old heavy TRW/SPEEDPRO. But usually lightweight cranks and rods actually have cost us ET and longevity.
Now saying a better designed piston that is lighter is good and better then an old heavy TRW/SPEEDPRO. But usually lightweight cranks and rods actually have cost us ET and longevity.
#10
I’m not a professional engine builder, or machinist. But from what I have been told (and my own experience) a 455 will live a long live at 5500-5800. The more RPM, the life typically goes down. Use lighter pistons and rods, the safe limit goes up. I don’t think you will find a olds engine builder who thinks very highly of stock rods. That’s not to say they are junk, they just have limits.
Thats a pretty accurate statement.
Yep this info seems to going against what we have found to be the normal with various Fords and Chevys. We are getting away from light weight rotating assemblies for a stronger moe durable properly weighted assemblies. Heck even NHRA 500 ProStock has goone away from Aluminum rods for steel.
Now saying a better designed piston that is lighter is good and better then an old heavy TRW/SPEEDPRO. But usually lightweight cranks and rods actually have cost us ET and longevity.
Now saying a better designed piston that is lighter is good and better then an old heavy TRW/SPEEDPRO. But usually lightweight cranks and rods actually have cost us ET and longevity.
#11
Yep this info seems to going against what we have found to be the normal with various Fords and Chevys. We are getting away from light weight rotating assemblies for a stronger moe durable properly weighted assemblies. Heck even NHRA 500 ProStock has goone away from Aluminum rods for steel.
Now saying a better designed piston that is lighter is good and better then an old heavy TRW/SPEEDPRO. But usually lightweight cranks and rods actually have cost us ET and longevity.
Now saying a better designed piston that is lighter is good and better then an old heavy TRW/SPEEDPRO. But usually lightweight cranks and rods actually have cost us ET and longevity.
#12
Yep this info seems to going against what we have found to be the normal with various Fords and Chevys. We are getting away from light weight rotating assemblies for a stronger moe durable properly weighted assemblies. Heck even NHRA 500 ProStock has goone away from Aluminum rods for steel.
Now saying a better designed piston that is lighter is good and better then an old heavy TRW/SPEEDPRO. But usually lightweight cranks and rods actually have cost us ET and longevity.
Now saying a better designed piston that is lighter is good and better then an old heavy TRW/SPEEDPRO. But usually lightweight cranks and rods actually have cost us ET and longevity.
#13
I haven't discussed anything with anyone other then whats posted here really. Just doing research and going from there. That way when engine comes out and apart, I will know what direction I want to go.
But yes Dale is fairily close to me. I have researched some of his biulds.
But yes Dale is fairily close to me. I have researched some of his biulds.
#14
Just trying to learn these BBo. I know BBc and y OLDS buddy just says "take all you know about BBc and throw it out!".
So on an aggressive street 455, what is comsidered safe RPMlimit and what would be HIGH RPMs?
Now my BBc 498 shifts @9800 with a ingle 4500, and 10,400 or so with 2 x 4500 on the tunnelram.
Now thinking the 455 should RPM 6500 to 7000?
What do you guys think? I know what supporting RPMs can require as far as induction, cam and timing etc. Just wondering about bottom end mechanicals.
Thanks John
So on an aggressive street 455, what is comsidered safe RPMlimit and what would be HIGH RPMs?
Now my BBc 498 shifts @9800 with a ingle 4500, and 10,400 or so with 2 x 4500 on the tunnelram.
Now thinking the 455 should RPM 6500 to 7000?
What do you guys think? I know what supporting RPMs can require as far as induction, cam and timing etc. Just wondering about bottom end mechanicals.
Thanks John
I good running production based 455 Olds will shift out of first @ 5300-5600 RPM them 5800 out of second to third, and go through about 6000 RPM in high gear, this gets you a high 10 sec pass with 4.10 gears and a 30X9 tire. The only time you would run a 455 Olds above 6000 RPM is to get it over the finish line, your surely not going to see peak power made over 6000 RPM.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; July 11th, 2022 at 07:33 PM.
#15
#17
#22
#23
John
I good running production based 455 Olds will shift out of first @ 5300-5600 RPM them 5800 out of second to third, and go through about 6000 RPM in high gear, this gets you a high 10 sec pass with 4.10 gears and a 30X9 tire. The only time you would run a 455 Olds above 6000 RPM is to get it over the finish line, your surely not going to see peak power made over 6000 RPM.
I good running production based 455 Olds will shift out of first @ 5300-5600 RPM them 5800 out of second to third, and go through about 6000 RPM in high gear, this gets you a high 10 sec pass with 4.10 gears and a 30X9 tire. The only time you would run a 455 Olds above 6000 RPM is to get it over the finish line, your surely not going to see peak power made over 6000 RPM.
This car I bought WILL see plenty of 3 hr highway trips. So bushing solid roller are probably going to make it into the program. Already bought the Torker intake, intake and header gaskets and Sniper that will support 650+Hp. Also not sure, but since this 455 of mine was supposedly built with nitrous in mind, and as a "stock" deal has run 11.90 with a 100hit, would like to keep that door open.
THIS IS ALL RESEARCH AND LERNING TILL ABOUT OCTOBER WHEN ENGINE COMES OUT FOR FRESHENING! If I don't break it before hand.....
#25
Looking forward to see what your 507 runs out of the box good luck.
#26
Well got 4 passes in at Cedar Creek Iowa. Nitto555R2 can not hook with the new engine. Put the slicks on and ran a 1.5 60 foot time but car was heading right into the other lane backed out but the 60 foot was on the back tires. Traction and some improvements in the chassis will be required. It's a whole new learning experience with the 507. Improvements coming.
#27
Well got 4 passes in at Cedar Creek Iowa. Nitto555R2 can not hook with the new engine. Put the slicks on and ran a 1.5 60 foot time but car was heading right into the other lane backed out but the 60 foot was on the back tires. Traction and some improvements in the chassis will be required. It's a whole new learning experience with the 507. Improvements coming.
#28
Well got 4 passes in at Cedar Creek Iowa. Nitto555R2 can not hook with the new engine. Put the slicks on and ran a 1.5 60 foot time but car was heading right into the other lane backed out but the 60 foot was on the back tires. Traction and some improvements in the chassis will be required. It's a whole new learning experience with the 507. Improvements coming.
#29
Well got 4 passes in at Cedar Creek Iowa. Nitto555R2 can not hook with the new engine. Put the slicks on and ran a 1.5 60 foot time but car was heading right into the other lane backed out but the 60 foot was on the back tires. Traction and some improvements in the chassis will be required. It's a whole new learning experience with the 507. Improvements coming.
#34
Strange??? I personally seen a few friends with 555 run low 10. From what we have found, there not ET Streets/slick, but better then most any other street tire. On a real streetcar they last a lot longer then ET Streets. Hook better then Cooper Cobras or Radial TAs.
#36
#37
#38
Your just used to seeing people run 11s with Cooper Cobras with stock worn out suspension and 2.56 gears with 1.8 60s driving it out of the hole LOL
#39
So now making notes on what I want/fixes/issues and will start taking it apart in November. BUT reading on here as also got me thinking about chassis work/suspension needs. "LEANING" towards more of the stock converter, mild tire 3.08 gear style stuff.
Last edited by New2oldsw30; July 18th, 2022 at 04:17 AM.
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