I see a few aem x which one do you think I need? 30-0300, 30-0334 and more

 

I’m putting the fx mufflers on mine, do you like them?

 

30-0300.

 

The FX mufflers are OK, just slightly loud but not obnoxious. Only got a few miles on them, time will tell where they settle for sound. I am using that wideband Mark recommended, great for tuning a carb.

 

I’m trying to get away from the roaring noise inside the car. It has flowmasters I think maybe flowmaster 40. Where did you get the headers.

 

We have the 2006-2011 dodge charger mufflers on our 10th. They are longer than these below. Both are 2.5 offset.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17734?rrec=true

 

Do they give that popping(rasping?) sound like chargers and mustangs etc?

 

I bought a set of the Chinese stainless full length headers. The passenger side fit perfect but the drivers side needed massaged to clear the motor mount. On tge later style mounts, it probably would have just cleared. Around the starter was very tight. Very well made but I think are all sold out.

 

I just bought some from suncent auto Chinese. They look good but are tight, I’ve got to turn the starter a little. I got to put on while on engine run stand. I did think about putting them on but then I $600 Thornton’s setting in a box. The flanges are thick on them. They was $209

 

I also will have a new $600 set of Sanderson coated shorties sitting on a shelf, that I will keep for a suitable 4x4 to Olds power. The larger oil filter also barely touched, so I lightly clamped it to clear. For $200, a person expects some issues. Gaining clearance everywhere for some HP and TQ is the trade off.

 

You right, the ones I bought are useless as hen **** on a pump handle lol. Can not get the 4th bolt in on both sides. I drilled the hole bigger, the bolt will go in header flange but want start because head of bolt hits the tube. May try to bend tube tomorrow. I think it’ll be fine for the stand

 

Try a slightly shorter bolt. I had 3/4" long header bolt, in place of the 1" long ones with a 3/8" head, it just squeezed by on the drivers side. My headers came with Metric bolts. I thought they were 5/16" bolts till I tried using them on the Stainless headers on my Dakota. I used 10mm head, 3/8" bolts that came with my Dakota headers, which were supposed to be 5/16". They do look a touch shorter than the 1" long header bolts I have and just squeezed in on the passenger side back two. Pick up 3/8" head with 3/4" length header bolts if you want to install these in car. Others have used short studs for those bolts. Check mount and oil filter clearance along with the starter. I actually combined two mini starters, a Powermaster back block with a super compact Ebay Olds mini starter and the terminals still needed slight trimming to clear. Hopefully your set has more room for the starter.

 

I think the bolts are 3/4 length with 3/8 heads, I drilled it larger and it’ll get in the hole but the head hits the tube before you can line it up with hole in heads. I may heat it and bend a little. That’s what I did for starter to clear studs last night. I got arp stainless with 5/16 heads but they’re 1”, just of that while I was replying. I’m gonna look and see if they make 3/4.

 

Two options:

1) Use a stud and nut at that location.

or

2) Loosen all the header bolts, pull the header away from the head, start the #4 bolt and run it in by hand. Then tighten all the others.

 

hey joe the head of the bolt hits the tube before it can get aligned up. The stud may work. I’m not using these on the car because of this problem using on run stand. I did get to crank it up today.

 

^---- #2 except use a S.H.C.S. (Socket Head Cap Screw) (Allen head). Also, you might want to grind the side of a washer to clear the tube, to cover some of the O.S. hole.

Use the S.H.C.S. The hole pattern may not be correct and that could be part of the problem Buy 2 of the cap screws, you may need one on the opposite bank.

 

I have a set of cheap headers that I use on my run stand with the same problem. I had to use a stud and nut. You might also try header bolts with the small diameter head.

 

I’m fixing head to the parts store if that’s what you want to call them, nothing like when I sold parts(years ago). Check on bolts and studs.

 

I cranked the engine yesterday evening. Water pump gasket leaking, the new top hose got into the belt.
In the video you can see a little smoke when rev it up, engine is supposed to be fresh with about 800 miles on it. I’m checking it out before I pull the heads off to put the #4 on and new cam(top end upgrade).
it will not let me post video because file to big. I’ll post it olds performance on fb.

 

As Joe mentioned above, there are lots of header bolts that are smaller diameter and look like they would work. Here is what Summit has.

OLDSMOBILE - header bolts KEYWORD - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

These are from Mr. Gasket and can be tightened with a socket or the allen head wrench that attached to a 3/8 drive ratchet.

Mr. Gasket 3420G Mr. Gasket Header Bolts - 3/8-16 x 3/4 Inch Hex & Socket Head - Black Oxide (holley.com)

 

 

Yeah, do a compression test to see where it is at.

 

Thanks everyone for all the advice.
the 3/4” header bolts worked on both sides. I thought about using them on the car but I’m not. There would no way to get them 2 bolts in if motor was in car. I learned some more words yesterday evening. Lol

 

I pulled plugs they were smutty except one was a little wet. I put the carb on from classic carburetor rebuilders on last night. Haven’t cranked it with that one on will this afternoon. The carb that I put on needs work.

 

I just did a compression test.

 

Number one looks to be your issue, rest look pretty normal for a low compression 403. Maybe try some oil in the cylinder and repeat.

 

If that motor hasn't run in a while, and you haven't swapped the heads yet, I wouldn't sweat the compression test. Could be a bit of rust on a valve face or seat, or dry cylinder wall. I'd run it with the old heads still on it, and then retest. The compression on #1 may come around.

 

I did air test on the cylinders #1 had blow by in crank case, the rest did good except a little air out of the exhaust, I don’t know the depth of pistons down in cylinders. Stock pistons. Maybe someone knows how much a stock pistons set down and some estimate on horse power with this build.
trying to figure which way to go if I got to pistons and rings.

Cam OL 270/274~10H, dur @050. int 219. exh 226 LI 491 W/1.6. LE 499 W/1.6. Performer intake quadrajet built, roller tip rockers, #4 heads. 2.07/1.625 valves. Planning on milling heads to around 60cc/61cc if that’s acceptable. Using felpro head gaskets.

 

Is it normal to have adjustable valve train with regular rockers and bridges?

 

Do you mean poly locks over bridges? I've never seen it done. Why would you? The roller rockers should have a shaft.

 

I didn’t do it, it has lock nuts not poly locks.
it has studs.

 

Hey guys I’m back with the motor I bought apartment, I found the compression issue on #1 it’s the ring and valve. The top ring is at 056 gap. I checked #7 top ring in that cylinder it was 026. #1 was at 056 in the others also.

it’s been bored 030 already, I’m going to take it to the machine shop so they can gauge the cylinders if it’ll be good to rering it.

I’m not sure about boring any larger being in a trans am.

if ok to bore:
regular 040 pistons with #4 heads or on 039 kb pistons with 4A heads?
im checking on a block to see if it’s standard or bored.

 

If the block is at .030 probably at its end. .040 is possible as well as the .039 as its been done.
At this point you are in for a big bill. I do have a built 403 short block - just need to check on getting out of machine shop jail if interested or I’ll just keep it