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Is he using a different cart than than the std 902 one?
I dyno’d 50 engines at my previous guys place with no issues. He had a SF902 as well. I used the same cheap 1 3/4 Flowtech headers I’m using now.
Got any pics of his dyno cart?
No pics yet of the cart. I'll see if I can look at it shortly. He did say 26" was he needed for clearance, and like I stated above, he uses sprint headers for clearance. Thanks for the quick reply!
You use your regular headers..it’s downstream of the collectors that needs to be wider. I use a couple of offset mandrel bent pipes to get around that.
I use the long 3” ones most of the time. The bigger 3 1/2” ones are for bigger cube high horse stuff. You can get them in 1/2” increments.Got everything at a local truck exhaust shop.
You can use the big flexible stuff but that’s really pricey.
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; May 31, 2024 at 07:32 AM.
It’s not complicated..you use offsets because your dyno guy doesn’t use flexible or offset hookups to get around the absorber frame for factory style chassis headers which are approx 18” to 20” c to c
heres the 902 measurements..you can see it’s about 25” wide… if he was regularly doing chassis style headers set ups, he would have the offset or flexible hookups already set up to clear the absorber mount/frame…he doesn’t. so it’s up to you to do the offsets.
Thanks CanadianOlds, I asked him about setting up offsets early on and he pushed back by saying there is a semi circular clearance in the frame where he said the offset pipes would interfere, but I need to see his setup before I comment further.
I think the op said his dyno guy regularly does sprint car set ups…they have a very wide exhaust set up.
it sounds like his set up isn’t so accommodating to the narrower chassis style headers on street cars. . he gave a measurement of what’s needed. I’ve had to use offsets many times myself because of that reason..a rigid or non flexible dyno ex set up is pretty common. It’s up to the guy bringing his engine to make it work with the dyno, not the other way around…. it’s not laziness on the operators part.
some of the basics to know before showing up with your engine to only find out you’re going to waste most of the day setting it up are…obviously the exhaust set up.,, it’s up to you to make it fit. it’s your money , their time
does the dyno have its own starter..many of them don’t. does the input hookup need to centre itself in the crank? older ones need a manual trans drilled crank for the input shaft.
don’t install the T stat.. ask what the fuel line hookup is..have your own fuel rated hose anyway.
have your water pump/ belt set up ready to go.. make sure your ignition system is complete which will only need a 12v supply..ask what style connectors they are using. have your carb tuning set up for easy changes..know what’s needed to go rich or lean as a percent.
and, beg them , twist their arm to pull it from a low rpm. This is how to properly set up the carb..it’s usually a flat rate for the day. You pay the same wether you barely get a couple pulls in while screwing around with setting it up or you get a bunch of them.
it’s a good time to start a new thread on how to prepare for a day on the dyno to get the most for your money
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; Jun 2, 2024 at 09:15 AM.
As a dyno owner/operator myself, I do everything I can to accommodate my customer. Leaving it all on them is just stupid, and often a waste of everybody’s time.
Last edited by cutlassefi; Jun 2, 2024 at 01:13 PM.
As a dyno owner/operator myself, I do everything I can to accommodate my customer. Leaving it all on them is just stupid, and often a waste of everybody’s time.
then you should find out who this guy is..go on his social media site and give him a piece of your mind about how he should have his dyno ex system set up and he should figure it out….you’re good at that.
would you rather have someone show up ready to go, or you do everything and waste your time setting everything up? the answer is obvious..unless you want to be the hero
would you rather have someone show up ready to go, or you do everything and waste your time setting everything up? the answer is obvious..unless you want to be the hero
Of course we discuss what they need to have/do beforehand, just like you and others do as well I’m sure.
But I try to go the extra mile to see what I can do to supply any potential missing pieces. They’re paying for a service that most haven’t ever done before. I try to accommodate.
I think the op said his dyno guy regularly does sprint car set ups…they have a very wide exhaust set up.
it sounds like his set up isn’t so accommodating to the narrower chassis style headers on street cars. . he gave a measurement of what’s needed. I’ve had to use offsets many times myself because of that reason..a rigid or non flexible dyno ex set up is pretty common. It’s up to the guy bringing his engine to make it work with the dyno, not the other way around…. it’s not laziness on the operators part.
some of the basics to know before showing up with your engine to only find out you’re going to waste most of the day setting it up are…obviously the exhaust set up.,, it’s up to you to make it fit. it’s your money , their time
does the dyno have its own starter..many of them don’t. does the input hookup need to centre itself in the crank? older ones need a manual trans drilled crank for the input shaft.
don’t install the T stat.. ask what the fuel line hookup is..have your own fuel rated hose anyway.
have your water pump/ belt set up ready to go.. make sure your ignition system is complete which will only need a 12v supply..ask what style connectors they are using. have your carb tuning set up for easy changes..know what’s needed to go rich or lean as a percent.
and, beg them , twist their arm to pull it from a low rpm. This is how to properly set up the carb..it’s usually a flat rate for the day. You pay the same wether you barely get a couple pulls in while screwing around with setting it up or you get a bunch of them.
it’s a good time to start a new thread on how to prepare for a day on the dyno to get the most for your money
I wish I’d read this before I took my 400 to the dyno. Didn’t bring any jets and I stupidly assumed the dyno guy would have Rochester jets. He didn’t so all the pulls were done with the afr at 10.5. So rich that the results were practically meaningless.
I wish I’d read this before I took my 400 to the dyno. Didn’t bring any jets and I stupidly assumed the dyno guy would have Rochester jets. He didn’t so all the pulls were done with the afr at 10.5. So rich that the results were practically meaningless.
Agreed. But he also should’ve been proactive and told you didn’t have parts for that.
I’ve been on both sides, walked in as a customer, and now as an owner. Obviously, someone has to take the initiative there. And as an owner of a business, I feel it relies on the business owner to know and to educate his customer. Again, most times it’s a first for that person walking into a Dyno shop.
Just my opinion.