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Oval honing rods was discovered quite a while ago by my very good friend Kip Martin. Kip raced a 352 Ford Galaxie in super stock, but he had a problem, it would spin the the rod bearings, and factory rods were mandatory back in those days in Super Stock, so you had to make factory parts work, basically you couldn't be a bubble packer, you had to think. Well Kip and his two boys came up with a idea, they would oval hone the spindly factory Ford rods, this fixed the rod bearing problem. Kip went on to set the SS/O record and win Indy, all because they oval honed the rods. BTW-one of Kips two sons IS Darin Morgan. A picture of a beloved friend of my family Kip Martin-
Bernhard wrote:
Kip Martin is featured in SA Design Engine Blueprinting first published in 1985 Oval honing rods.
Thanks Mark for posting very cool piece of history.
Didn't know that. In his 70s Kip set the SS/L record and was quite a caracter, he would come from his home in AZ and stay with us for weeks at a time, he always wanted to get his hands on my shop, he worked out of my old partners shop in Phoenix, he would hang around and talk tech, we always discussed engine our engine changes in depth, everybody really liked having him around the shop, and boy would he like to go on a core hunt with me in Denver! He liked to ice skate? and was a pianist, love techie things, and wrode a modified scooter around, he had a simple common sense approach to problem solving. After dinner my wife and son would take him for ice cream. We miss him!
Now back to information you can use:
Kips 220 HP 289 SS/L
469 HP on my dyno
10.29 @ 127 @ 2950
@67oai so you are saying the lifter feed restrictors be .060 minimum. . but what about the restrictors in the mains ?. I don't know how easy it would be to remove them maybe drill them ( open them up) ?.
Also at this point. I haven't heard back from the machine shop to drop my stuff off. At this point I'm considering new Pistons maybe even new rods and just starting fresh with a different block. Since the mains where not align hone it can't be much more to mill the caps on whatever block I'm gonna use then align hone and not have to deal with the restrictors .
The "Mondello" cam bearing oil restrictors are aluminum and knurled on the outside to be driven up into the cam bearing oil feed. If they don't fall out, just leave them in place as they won't hurt anything. Yes, i'ld recommend you make the lifter feed restrictors in the .050" to .060" range if street driven.
The "Mondello" cam bearing oil restrictors are aluminum and knurled on the outside to be driven up into the cam bearing oil feed. If they don't fall out, just leave them in place as they won't hurt anything. Yes, i'ld recommend you make the lifter feed restrictors in the .050" to .060" range if street driven.
How do you properly clean the block with the oil restrictors still in the block?
You still have plugs on the ends of the oil galleries . I actually have a tool for this to spray from the inside out. When my dad still worked he did industrial de rusting and cleaning. So I got to use their stuff for my stuff lol.
So the restrictors at the lifter feed holes came out. Pretty easy actually. Clearly they have been drilled and tapped. Can they be left out or will this create oil psi issues ? Or should I just buy new ones @ .060 . I have drill bits for the job but man it's tedious. I have done .040 holes for the distributor spit hole.
Can you not reuse the restrictors? What size hole is in them? It is easier to redrill existing holes to a larger size than to drill new ones; use a small V-block to hold the restrictor in your drill press. Without being able to compare the existing lifter feed holes in your block with one that has not been drilled for restrictors, we cannot comment on leaving the restrictors out. In many cases when screw in restrictors are installed, the installer will only tap deep enough to set the restrictor safely in place leaving the factory drilled hole below it. If it were my build, I would reuse the restrictors; drill them out to .050 or .060 if too small.
