Black Dash Pad 70-72 Cutlass?
Thank you for your replies J-(Chicago) and starfire. My dash pad had gauges installed in the vent delete center of the dash pad, so that area is not original - was cut open slightly to make room for gauges in vent opening. Just dashes quoted $995 + shipping, and I don't know if they could fix the butchered dash center vent delete opening. Hoping to find something a bit more reasonable. Thanks again.
Be patient and keep looking.....there are still a lot of these dash pads out there in pretty good condition. Sure, you may have to paint/dye a good used one to "freshen" up the look, but that's A LOT less $ compared to the dash recovering places.
Don't necessarily pass up a real nice pad in another color. With some fairly basic techniques you can repaint one in black and never have a problem if you are worried about changing colors on a pad.
Don't necessarily pass up a real nice pad in another color. With some fairly basic techniques you can repaint one in black and never have a problem if you are worried about changing colors on a pad.
Dash Pad
What is your location???? I have a couple nice ones, but really don't want to ship them. obryan15@msn.com Greensburg, Pa.
Thank you for that sage advice 70Post. It's for a '70 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (#2+ condition). So, I want it to look good, but don't need an overpriced concourse quality pad. I'll keep looking. Thanks again.
What is your location???? I have a couple nice ones, but really don't want to ship them. obryan15@msn.com Greensburg, Pa.
Steve
Ah HAH!!!! They're coming out of the woodwork!!!!!
I tripped over a couple walking down the street today myself.
Here's some "things to watch for" when looking at pics, asking questions, etc:
>Horizontal area over the guages - This area can sag a bit....most pads will have some "sag" in them but it varies depending on the conditions the thing has been in over the years. On a car, out in a salvage place and exposed to the sun year after year they can get pretty "saggy".
Solution: Demand good, clear pics showing the pad from straight on (as if it were installed in the car and you were looking at it)....some full length "straight on" shots so you can get an idea of how the gauge overhang area looks compared to the rest of the pad....level-wise.
>Headlight Switch/Pull Area: The pad protrudes out around the lower perimeter of the headlight pull switch. A pad that's been stored wrong or has been "kneed" a lot may have some distortion in the pad in this protruding area.
Solution: Good pics of the area
>Long edge of pad where it meets the dash metal - Many of these pads start to "lift" in this area. When installed in the car and this edge is laying next to the nice smooth corresponding dash metal edge/ledge the variations in the pad become more apparent. The vinyl covering of the pad also can come unglued along/under the front edge of the pad which makes it easier to lift along the outside edge.
Solution: Pics again...sometimes a couple GOOD pics with the camera sighting down the length of the pad will reveal if anything is happening here.
>The channel in the pad where the "chrome" dash bead molding sits....the '70 models had this beading glued on at the factory. That glue didn't hold very well as the the plastic chrome beading shrunk up. So...you'll see many used pads with this channel globbed up with all kinds of glues as some prior owner tried to glue the bead molding back in place. Judging from the amount and types of glues I've picked out of these channels over the years when restoring dash pads I'd say most, if not all, of these attempts were an exercise in futility (the plastic "chrome" bead moldings shrink up over time and the glues can't hold that back).
The factory changed the dashbead molding attachment method by including some little nylon/plastic "spikes" to hold the bead molding in place. Still...many poor '70 pads made it out the factory doors without any help from Spike.
BUT--there were some base models of these Cutlasses that didn't get the factory "chrome" bead molding... find one of these and you'll likely have a real clean channel to start with.
That's a start for now...good luck.
I tripped over a couple walking down the street today myself.Here's some "things to watch for" when looking at pics, asking questions, etc:
>Horizontal area over the guages - This area can sag a bit....most pads will have some "sag" in them but it varies depending on the conditions the thing has been in over the years. On a car, out in a salvage place and exposed to the sun year after year they can get pretty "saggy".
Solution: Demand good, clear pics showing the pad from straight on (as if it were installed in the car and you were looking at it)....some full length "straight on" shots so you can get an idea of how the gauge overhang area looks compared to the rest of the pad....level-wise.
>Headlight Switch/Pull Area: The pad protrudes out around the lower perimeter of the headlight pull switch. A pad that's been stored wrong or has been "kneed" a lot may have some distortion in the pad in this protruding area.
Solution: Good pics of the area
>Long edge of pad where it meets the dash metal - Many of these pads start to "lift" in this area. When installed in the car and this edge is laying next to the nice smooth corresponding dash metal edge/ledge the variations in the pad become more apparent. The vinyl covering of the pad also can come unglued along/under the front edge of the pad which makes it easier to lift along the outside edge.
Solution: Pics again...sometimes a couple GOOD pics with the camera sighting down the length of the pad will reveal if anything is happening here.
>The channel in the pad where the "chrome" dash bead molding sits....the '70 models had this beading glued on at the factory. That glue didn't hold very well as the the plastic chrome beading shrunk up. So...you'll see many used pads with this channel globbed up with all kinds of glues as some prior owner tried to glue the bead molding back in place. Judging from the amount and types of glues I've picked out of these channels over the years when restoring dash pads I'd say most, if not all, of these attempts were an exercise in futility (the plastic "chrome" bead moldings shrink up over time and the glues can't hold that back).
The factory changed the dashbead molding attachment method by including some little nylon/plastic "spikes" to hold the bead molding in place. Still...many poor '70 pads made it out the factory doors without any help from Spike.
BUT--there were some base models of these Cutlasses that didn't get the factory "chrome" bead molding... find one of these and you'll likely have a real clean channel to start with.
That's a start for now...good luck.
Last edited by 70Post; Mar 8, 2013 at 10:24 PM.
Wow! Thank you for that wonderful comprehensive summary on buying a used dash pad, 70Post! I will use it as my guide. It reads like the vintage "Dash Pads" section from a Consumers Reports Buying Guide!
Also, THANK YOU to everyone who has replied and/or reached out to me with offers and assistance. You have all been very warm and helpful, and I sincerely appreciate your interest and knowledge sharing.
Tom
Also, THANK YOU to everyone who has replied and/or reached out to me with offers and assistance. You have all been very warm and helpful, and I sincerely appreciate your interest and knowledge sharing.
Tom
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