Wanted a NOS 397328 camshaft. Thank you.

 

Oregon Camshaft can make you one to exact spec.

 

Comp Cams offers the 308 deg camshaft also.

 

Just wiped one of those on a break in. Just bought 16 NOS lifters so looking for an original cam.

 

Exactly why I went with an NOS cam set in my Jetfire. I am building a Jetfire engine now with aftermarket cam and lifters. At least the spring pressure is not to crazy on these. I very much worry about a cam failure every time. I lost a cam on a new build in 2002 and been freaked out about it ever since.

 

Comp Cams can nitride the cam to improve durability. I use moly cam lube paste on the lifters and lobes, set timing so it starts right away, and break in for 30 minutes varying rpm 2000-2500 with lighter valve springs (the regular W31 springs are light enough; you want 100-120 seat, 200 or so open).

 

Some say it’s the quality of the lifter and some say it’s the quality of the cam causing lobes wiped out on break in. Who knows. But what you said will give them every chance there is to succeed. Quick start, ie, timing set and ready, distributor dialed in, carbs 100% functional etc. well lubed, run 30 minutes at 2000-2200.

 

From what I have seen it is more the machining of the parts. I sent a Comp cam back a few years ago that had zero taper on a couple of the lobes. That is when I went to the NOS cam for my Jetfire. I have a friend that checked some lifters on a new build and they were perfectly flat on the bottom. Had to get them replaced. Good thing he checked them.

 

 

This is why I suggested Oregon Cams. Ken will grind your cam off of an original Oldsmobile cam. He agrees that the materials are better in the OEM cams. I've bought several with 100% success. BUT, like others have stated here; its the moly lube and procedure that matters most.
I use the Isky cam lube, Lucas break in oil, run the engine on the run stand with a known dialed distributer and carb. I set the balancer to 10 degrees and drop in a Progression HEI. That way I can monitor timing on my phone. No need to fiddle with it; if it runs leave it alone, 2000rpm for 20 minutes, then dial it in. Go another 5-10. Let it cool a little. Change the oil and do it again but varying the rpm the next time.

Has worked for me so far, but its only been like 35 years.......

 

A couple of my thoughts from watching the video and my experience.
#1. The guy is using the Rockwell "C" scale and pointed diamond indentor. This scale is generally considered accurate in theang R"C" 30 and above for full hardening steels. The reason I mention "full hardened" is because the indentor and "preload" can poke through "case hardened steels and give a false reading.

Beginning at 9:14 on the video. Notice how he starts to "pre-load", then backs off and begins to "preload" again. He continues the procedure and comes up with a reading of 51. This is wrong. The minute he started preloading, he created a partial indentation. He should have moved to a different spot to check hardness.
The R"C" reading in the 30's and 40's is too soft for a cam.

The chatter marks are not a sign of quality and workmanship.

The lifters that were hardness checked in the high R"C" 50's is fine. The lifters being flat is not right. Checking lifter hardness at the edge can give unreliable readings. The guy realized that and moved to a different spot/ Its my understanding that lifter bottoms are ground with 40" radius.

Spectroanalysis of cam materials can tell what the chemical composition is, but it won't tell what the material condition is with hardness.
........Just my two cents worth.

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I lost 2 cams in the last 2 engine builds. First a mechanical flat tappet and the last one hydraulic.
The mechanical in my L78 Chevelle I reluctantly went with a hydraulic roller and that one is good. (Just not factory) which is my preferred way.
The last motor rebuild was one of our 67 W30 400's. Comp cam replica and Johnson hylift lifters .921 of which there are not many choices.
wiped out exhaust on number 6 immediately after it came off run stand. All lifters never bled down and definitely had crown issues.
On the re-rebuild used a Melling cam with NOS HL-55 lifters all is good. Looking for a NOS cam for the other 67 W30 we have in anticipation of a rebuild.
I feel for anyone who has gone what I have during covid and post covid engine building. It's like the engine parts contracted a virus.

 

I have a Comp in my 400E with Johnson lifters and was ok. I had Ken make me a new cam 531/533 232/242 off of a stock Olds cam that I am swapping out later this year. He will literally check his Olds core stock when your on the phone to make sure he has a proper fit. Can't beat the price. I was $185ish shipped if memory serves.

 

I will be doing a start up in a month or so on a 66 400e block. Engine rebuilt and sat for some time. I plan to pull lifters first check the crown, re Molly lube them and them cam before a start up..however I am nervous as hell about it. I bought the engine from a fellow olds guy who had it professionally rebuilt by an Olds builder, so hopefully everything goes smooth.

 

I have a Comp in my 400E with Johnson lifters and was ok. I had Ken make me a new cam 531/533 232/242 off of a stock Olds cam that I am swapping out later this year. He will literally check his Olds core stock when your on the phone to make sure he has a proper fit. Can't beat the price. I was $185ish shipped if memory serves.
I do have a couple sets of NOS .921 lifters as well. Ken can't help with new lifters but he will recondition old ones if you send them.

 

Also check the pre load carefully to make sure the bottoms of the lifters below the orifice is not loaded with oil. This will cause them to act like solid lifters and put undue pressure on the cam.
Lastly if the engine has never been started since rebuilt check the spring pressure at the seat. These days a single spring 80-100 closed max. 2300 for a min of 25 mins. and Pray.

 

When you pre pump up the oil before a start up wouldn’t that automatically fill the bottom of your lifters.? Question is how to avoid that then?

 

I would recommend this procedure. Do not soak the lifters in oil in a bucket.
The oil will get past the orifice and not bleed down. This will cause you not to be able to set proper preload.
You will have to physically take each lifter apart to discard the trapped oil. Instead install lifters into their bores (using break in on lobe and lifter)
and use an oil primer to get oil into the lifters. This is what has worked best for me. I'm out about 12k on 2 failed motors so this is the only way
I do this now and going forward. Tough lesson to learn but the inferior products we are left to use today will get ya at some point. Use NOS whenever available.
Or re-use known good lifter cam set up if one in car was good before tear down.