WTB power door lock actuator
#1
WTB power door lock actuator
Looking for a pair of power door lock actuator for my 1975 cutlass supreme. I've gone to all the local junkyard and no luck, also been looking online and everyone seems to have the 80s cutlass one which is smaller and isn't able to work with my car. The last owner didnt take very good care of the car and they ended up rusted closed. Dont most of the 70's a bodies share the same actuator?
Pic of it on my photobucket.
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x281/Asquirt4u/
Pic of it on my photobucket.
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x281/Asquirt4u/
#2
I think '75 and earlier are the same? The 4 doors have two screw tabs on the actuator, careful of that when getting one, also left and right. I see them on evilbay sometimes, couple listed for a GTO on there right now, complete set for a Chebelle/A body with harness, boots and switches. They're kind of rare to begin with and scarce with guys adding the option or needing replacements. Maybe somebody here has one, post for parts wanted on the other GM sites if you have no luck. I like Team Chevelle, Performance Years Poncho forum, ROP, the V8Buick site is really nice.
#3
I have two that I pulled from a '75 4 door so i will dig them out later and compare them to your pictures. I think they are different but the bracket could be modified (another 'I think') Can you send be the dimensions between the bolt holes on yours?
If yours are just rusted solid, they CAN be disassembled and restored - i have done that. Given the cost and rarity of these, it is well worth the time. I may have pictures of when i did that - I will look when I get home from the yard today...
The ones I have were rusted and now they work fine.
The only big thing is that the top rubber boots are broken up, which caused them to fill with water. Baby bottle tops might serve as temporary boots..
If yours are just rusted solid, they CAN be disassembled and restored - i have done that. Given the cost and rarity of these, it is well worth the time. I may have pictures of when i did that - I will look when I get home from the yard today...
The ones I have were rusted and now they work fine.
The only big thing is that the top rubber boots are broken up, which caused them to fill with water. Baby bottle tops might serve as temporary boots..
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; May 2nd, 2009 at 05:43 AM.
#4
Backup plan
I hope Rob's suggestion will work out for you. The guy knows what he's doing. If you would still need the actuators I do have a set (L&R) out of a 73' Grand Prix SJ. I'll snap some pics if needed. They were tested when I got them (about 2 years ago) and worked great. Hope all works out...Gery.
#5
Baby botle tops? you mean rubber baby bottle nipples? Another job for the Rubber-Maid.
Those things come apart? Thought they were welded, my bad.
I have a a few for 4 doors/wagons but they have that 2 hole bracket, can the guts interchange?
Guys used to use them to release the door latches when they shaved the handles, had to have a cool secret place on the outside of the car for the button. It was a secret until you watched them open the door once.
Those things come apart? Thought they were welded, my bad.
I have a a few for 4 doors/wagons but they have that 2 hole bracket, can the guts interchange?
Guys used to use them to release the door latches when they shaved the handles, had to have a cool secret place on the outside of the car for the button. It was a secret until you watched them open the door once.
#6
EVERYTHING comes apart - some are just harder than others!
Actually, the lock solenoids come apart fairly easily, a little more difficult if rusted, but still possible.
The first picture shows the 1975 4-door type. Note the bracket difference for added clearance... It would work with a 2-door with some mods, but I would recommend 2-door styles though to make your life easier.
I did not have pictures of the internals but the second picture shows three out of the four casing tabs (under the boots) that have to be bent back to release the internals.
Take your time disassembling and make notes how it all comes apart; it is pretty straightforward. Do one at a time in case you need to use the other one to figure out how to reassemble the other...
Baby bottle nipples could work, but silicone is best. Latex would work, but would deteriorate quickly if oil or grease got on them.
If someone has a better idea for boots, I would love to hear. I wish they were repro'ed...
Actually, the lock solenoids come apart fairly easily, a little more difficult if rusted, but still possible.
The first picture shows the 1975 4-door type. Note the bracket difference for added clearance... It would work with a 2-door with some mods, but I would recommend 2-door styles though to make your life easier.
I did not have pictures of the internals but the second picture shows three out of the four casing tabs (under the boots) that have to be bent back to release the internals.
Take your time disassembling and make notes how it all comes apart; it is pretty straightforward. Do one at a time in case you need to use the other one to figure out how to reassemble the other...
Baby bottle nipples could work, but silicone is best. Latex would work, but would deteriorate quickly if oil or grease got on them.
If someone has a better idea for boots, I would love to hear. I wish they were repro'ed...
#7
Sorry about the late response, just got my computer back after moving and remembered this thread.
Rob those pics looks very close to the ones that i have, only difference is the brackets as you mentioned above. Any chance you would have 2 laying around which you would part with?
Rob those pics looks very close to the ones that i have, only difference is the brackets as you mentioned above. Any chance you would have 2 laying around which you would part with?
#8
Maybe not OEM for 1975 but these from A1 Electric come highly recommended.
http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm > scroll all the way down for the options.
I'm putting them in my 78 Camaro as well with a remote door unlock.
http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm > scroll all the way down for the options.
I'm putting them in my 78 Camaro as well with a remote door unlock.
Last edited by Aceshigh; October 6th, 2010 at 02:21 AM.
#9
Thanks for the fast response, aceshigh. Not too sure if those would work, tried something similar a few years back and it wasn't strong enough to unlock the door. Any idea if those would work on say a 60 lb or more door?
#10
75supreme, I have some from 1974 and 1975 Olds 98's. The actuators would work but you'd probably have to drill the mounting brackets to fit your door. If you don't have cores you'll also need to fabricate rods to go from the actuator to the lock. Let me know if your interested and I'll get some pictures for you. John
#11
Still looking for a pair of these, if anyone has or comes across something similar to pics below, please let me know, one of the last parts Im looking for!
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x281/Asquirt4u/
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x281/Asquirt4u/
Last edited by 75supreme; July 25th, 2011 at 11:44 PM.
#13
Here's a pair from a 1975 Olds 98. If you think they could be modified to work on your car I'd take $40 for the pair plus shipping. I'm thinking the brackets and the rod on top would be different.
Another option may be to pull the guts out of these and install them in your housings. Rob, do you think that would work? John
P1010318.jpg
P1010319.jpg
P1010321.jpg
P1010322.jpg
P1010320.jpg
Another option may be to pull the guts out of these and install them in your housings. Rob, do you think that would work? John
P1010318.jpg
P1010319.jpg
P1010321.jpg
P1010322.jpg
P1010320.jpg
#14
2blue442, those look very similar to the rusted ones i have. Even the wiring connections are the same! Only difference seems to be the mounting holes, but i can just drill new ones if need be. Thanks for taking the time to find and post pictures of those! How good do they work? My next day off i'll send you my paypal info. How's oregon?
#15
I tested them and yes they both work. Whenever you have time, send the paypal information through a PM or email, I'll get them boxed up.
Southern Oregon is having a very mild summer this year. Maybe 6 weeks since the last rain, but mostly high 80's into low 90's with humidities in the 20-30% range. Not the typical 90's with some triple digit days. It's been great weather to be outdoors both at work and playing with the cars at home! John
Southern Oregon is having a very mild summer this year. Maybe 6 weeks since the last rain, but mostly high 80's into low 90's with humidities in the 20-30% range. Not the typical 90's with some triple digit days. It's been great weather to be outdoors both at work and playing with the cars at home! John
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