David DeCan

Looking for a 455 N crank. Standard/Standard. Factory cut for a 4 speed pilot bearing with snap ring. Call/Text David at 406-531-6939.

AzMotorhead

David I dont think I'vre ever seen a pilot bearing retained by a snap ring.
You can always get a crank from a automatic car and have the machine shop bore the end of the crank to accept the pilot bearing.
The blueprinting book from mondello has the dimensions needed for boring.

wr1970

I agree with AZmotorhead. Buy a auto crank and have a machine shop bore it to make it a four speed crank.

Octania

that's a tight tolerance on the 1.377...
Plus a half, minus zero.

Also, the drill tip shows a 90 degree angle rather than 118.

Maybe I should do a Solid Works 3D model of the Olds Crank!

joe_padavano

Now you have. The snap rings were used from the 1970 model year onward.

AzMotorhead

Thanks Joe.
My 70 probably had one originally, but that was 4 motors ago

marxjunk

My 70 motor has the snap ring too

Octania

Huh, my 442 does not even have a pilot bearing

marxjunk

Is it a 4 speed? It helps if it's a 4 speed...lol

scrappie

Is there a blueprint for converting to a pilot bearing with the snap ring groove?
Is the pilot bearing the same part for all 455 4 spd cars?

64Rocket

I have one. The snap ring is broke and rust is holding now. I have been letting soak, hope it will come out.
Let me know
Gene

citcapp

A little of subject but in the bearing is stuck fill the void behind the bearing with grease. find a wood dowel approx the same size as the hole about two feet long. Stick it in the hole and smack with a hammer. The bearing will pop out

64Rocket

Pat,
It is the snap ring that is stuck, also the ears are broke on the snap ring, because of the rust. I have it soaking, should able dig it out.

David, let me know if you want any pic's.

Gene

Gary M

Do you have to have the snap ring if you have the auto crank drilled?

64Rocket

I don't know why there is a snap ring. It's not like the brg/bushing will fall out. They never had snap ring for all the years before '70

Gene

2blu442

I've been told the pre-1970 were "peened". It looks like the factory took a punch and hit the crank right next to the bearing. Attached is a photo of a 1965 crank. Note the mark near the 6:00 O'clock position. I have used a pilot bushing that fit tightly and didn't do anything to make it stay in place.
John

DSCN1798.jpg

citcapp

Didn't note that the snap ring ears were broke off. Always something fun to do in this car game we play

David DeCan

Thanks for all the input.

I am not confident in the machine shop on this. They have never done it before.

I have an auto "N" crank and previously did all the research on the oilite busing. Because I am not finding an N crank from a manual transmission, I am going to let the machine shop give it a go.

I am converting from a TH 350 Auto to manual. Engine is out for rebuild.

Let's say I have the crank drilled for the bushing/pilot bearing, assembly engine and install in car. Then I hold off on doing the 4 speed conversion and put the TH350 Auto back in the car.

??Should I leave the pilot bushing/bearing out and install it when I do the 4 speed conversion??

I know this seems elementary--but my manual trans experience is zero.

Thanks everyone.

joe_padavano

I have to say that if a machine shop can't bore a concentric hole in the end of the crank for the pilot bearing, I'd be skeptical of their ability to machine the rest of the crank.

The pilot bearing will have no, er, bearing on the fitment of the torque converter, so you can leave it in or take it out.

joe_padavano

It actually tells you to do exactly that in the CSM for those years.

64Rocket

I have a couple of stick cranks. One has the snap ring set up, the other two do not. Why do you need one with a snap ring?
It's not going to fall out.
Gene