Wanted: 68 442 Horn (Low note)
July 14th, 2018, 02:05 PM
#1
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Wanted: 68 442 Horn (Low note)
Hi folks,
Looking for a working low "A" note horn for a 1968 442. Part number 9000261. Mounting bolt would be helpful also.
I'd settle for a different note as long as its not the high "F" I already have. Bracket should match attached pic though and is my primary concern as mounts changed from year to year and I am not looking to make any new holes in core support.
Thanks in advance!
Looking for a working low "A" note horn for a 1968 442. Part number 9000261. Mounting bolt would be helpful also.
I'd settle for a different note as long as its not the high "F" I already have. Bracket should match attached pic though and is my primary concern as mounts changed from year to year and I am not looking to make any new holes in core support.
Thanks in advance!
July 14th, 2018, 02:24 PM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 231
did you try squirting/ soaking your non working horn with penetrant and shaking it? it may loosen up and start working. one year only 68 horns are hard to find in working condition. they can also be rebuilt but it is expensive.
July 14th, 2018, 02:37 PM
#3
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Location: Central Mass
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Thanks for the advice but unfortunately I've only ever had the one horn: just the high note. One of those things you put off looking for for years.
I picked up a set of pontiac horns untested for (very) cheap and was planning on using them after altering the brackets, but neither work, I'll try the penetrating lube on them.
In the mean time, still looking...
I picked up a set of pontiac horns untested for (very) cheap and was planning on using them after altering the brackets, but neither work, I'll try the penetrating lube on them.
In the mean time, still looking...
July 14th, 2018, 05:32 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rainy Washington State
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Hello
horns are weird
so many numbers and not much information
here is a pair I sold last year
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-oldsmo...item4400b61c38
many of the horns shown below are mine ... any with the manila tags on cardboard,,,
https://www.ebay.com/cln/wmf/delco-r...s/200105053018
my notes show a nother 262 264 set but the 262 is LOUD and the 264
no workee ....
I do have other loud working low note horns
with similar brackets
my notes show a 262 being the pasenger side and hangs like my ebay first picture .... correct ...?
and you need the drivers side...
Scott 2o6 465 9165
so many numbers and not much information
here is a pair I sold last year
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-oldsmo...item4400b61c38
many of the horns shown below are mine ... any with the manila tags on cardboard,,,
https://www.ebay.com/cln/wmf/delco-r...s/200105053018
my notes show a nother 262 264 set but the 262 is LOUD and the 264
no workee ....
I do have other loud working low note horns
with similar brackets
my notes show a 262 being the pasenger side and hangs like my ebay first picture .... correct ...?
and you need the drivers side...
Scott 2o6 465 9165
July 14th, 2018, 07:54 PM
#5
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Location: Central Mass
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I remember seeing that set for sale...
Correct, according to the assembly manual 261 is the part number and it mounts on the drivers side.
But it if you have a single low note with the correct bracket I’d be very interested.
Correct, according to the assembly manual 261 is the part number and it mounts on the drivers side.
But it if you have a single low note with the correct bracket I’d be very interested.
July 15th, 2018, 10:03 AM
#7
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 231
wish I had seen your 68 cutlass horns for sale on ebay I still need working horns for both my 68's . I have not been lucky enough to find any horns at all on any of the 68 parts cars I have bought over the years. Rustbucket , its as easy as spraying penetrant from a can into the horn ,but there is no guarantee it will work to free the horn contact up , it may just be too corroded. I have had some success though but had to shake and tap the horn to get it to free up and work. hope this helps
July 15th, 2018, 01:44 PM
#9
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Did not do the trick on the two pontiac horns i referenced above.
Found this but it looks tricky:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-horn-rebuild/
Found this but it looks tricky:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-horn-rebuild/
July 15th, 2018, 07:55 PM
#10
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Location: Rainy Washington State
Posts: 499
Hello
sorry just a quiet 68 drivers L
and
a LOUD passenger H
they are 75.00 to rebuild ....
I have lubed and adjusted this one 3 times according to my notes
it need to come apart....
I have a couple other loud Low horns but the horn will aim a different direction
and
a LOUD passenger H
they are 75.00 to rebuild ....
I have lubed and adjusted this one 3 times according to my notes
it need to come apart....
I have a couple other loud Low horns but the horn will aim a different direction
July 16th, 2018, 05:51 AM
#12
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: SE MI
Posts: 328
I rebuilt the horns on my 66 Corvette 25 years ago. It wasn't hard and they still work. If you can get a rebuild kit, I say go for it.
Did not do the trick on the two pontiac horns i referenced above.
Found this but it looks tricky:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-horn-rebuild/
Found this but it looks tricky:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-horn-rebuild/
July 16th, 2018, 06:43 AM
#13
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Location: Central Mass
Posts: 174
I appreciate it, again, I'll take a different low note, it beats no low note! Although i believe the big cars had their horns mounted using a different bracket.
I'm going to give it a shot on the pontiac horns I picked up and see how it goes. If I can get them making noise maybe I can sell them on to someone with a trans-am!
I'm going to give it a shot on the pontiac horns I picked up and see how it goes. If I can get them making noise maybe I can sell them on to someone with a trans-am!
July 16th, 2018, 08:06 PM
#14
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rainy Washington State
Posts: 499
68 horns
here are the pics requested ...
sorry for the delay
played hooky today from work ....
94 degrees here yesterday and today In Olympia WA .. so I went to my favorite river
the Wynoochee
found a shady spot awaay from the swimmers
and got into a couple hatchery summer steelhead
its din din time .....
scott
if you want you can put the loud working low guts from the 74 horn in the 68 body
or
this 67 cutlass L horn is really close to the same
a little modification on the bracket and .......
marked LOUD
206 465 9165
sorry for the delay
played hooky today from work ....
94 degrees here yesterday and today In Olympia WA .. so I went to my favorite river
the Wynoochee
found a shady spot awaay from the swimmers
and got into a couple hatchery summer steelhead
its din din time .....
scott
if you want you can put the loud working low guts from the 74 horn in the 68 body
or
this 67 cutlass L horn is really close to the same
a little modification on the bracket and .......
marked LOUD
206 465 9165
Last edited by 72455442RA; July 16th, 2018 at 11:10 PM.
July 17th, 2018, 05:59 AM
#15
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Central Mass
Posts: 174
here are the pics requested ...
sorry for the delay
played hooky today from work ....
94 degrees here yesterday and today In Olympia WA .. so I went to my favorite river
the Wynoochee
found a shady spot awaay from the swimmers
and got into a couple hatchery summer steelhead
its din din time .....
scott
if you want you can put the loud working low guts from the 74 horn in the 68 body
or
this 67 cutlass L horn is really close to the same
a little modification on the bracket and .......
marked LOUD
206 465 9165
sorry for the delay
played hooky today from work ....
94 degrees here yesterday and today In Olympia WA .. so I went to my favorite river
the Wynoochee
found a shady spot awaay from the swimmers
and got into a couple hatchery summer steelhead
its din din time .....
scott
if you want you can put the loud working low guts from the 74 horn in the 68 body
or
this 67 cutlass L horn is really close to the same
a little modification on the bracket and .......
marked LOUD
206 465 9165
pm sent
July 17th, 2018, 04:06 PM
#16
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rainy Washington State
Posts: 499
shipped
tracking pm'd after this
thanks
rechecked the horns and they both sound great together
my neighbor yelled over the fence and asked if all was ok even
they sounded so good had to try em a few times
thanks
rechecked the horns and they both sound great together
my neighbor yelled over the fence and asked if all was ok even
they sounded so good had to try em a few times
October 31st, 2018, 09:10 PM
#18
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Alexandria Virginia
Posts: 319
I have a slightly different issue. On my 68 442 the low horn sounds too low and the last owner of the automobile just unplugged it. I would like to fix it to original sound but i truly don't know how it should sound anyways. Can anybody tell me what kind of sound i should look for? What kind of penetrating fluid should i use or which one would be more effective?
October 31st, 2018, 09:15 PM
#19
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Location: Rainy Washington State
Posts: 499
ring me if you want to .... I can set you up with a LOUD clear horn ..... and reuse your bracket with a spot weld....
or send it to me I will see if I can wake it up ....
Scott
2zero6 465 9165
or send it to me I will see if I can wake it up ....
Scott
2zero6 465 9165
November 1st, 2018, 10:20 AM
#21
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Central Mass
Posts: 174
Did not end up rebuilding horns because I was wrong about which one I needed and ended up with a working pair from my original and the pair (one working/one not) That I picked up from Scott. Thanks again Scott!
I did take apart the two Pontiac horns I have and got them working, but I have not reassembled them yet as the rivets I tried to source myself were too short. The guts are very simple. There is basically a single moving part actuated by one electrical contact. I’d say corrosion on the contact probably accounts for most failures.
Also, I doubt the penetrating lube would work unless the horn was clogged with something. Everything you would want to lubricate would be on the other side of a metal diaphragm from where you would apply it. To repair you just grind off or drill out the heads of the rivets, tap them out with a punch, split the horn open with a thin blade, gently sand the contact, and reassemble with a new seal and rivets or machine screws with bolts.
There are a bunch of resources online for rebuilding these along with vendors for supplies. I’ll try to post links to the best ones I found later today.
The screw on one side of the horn adjusts the tone by adjusting the contact, so you might be able to get the tone where you want by fiddling with that, or even wake up a dead horn by moving the contact around. Just keep track of where you started.
I did take apart the two Pontiac horns I have and got them working, but I have not reassembled them yet as the rivets I tried to source myself were too short. The guts are very simple. There is basically a single moving part actuated by one electrical contact. I’d say corrosion on the contact probably accounts for most failures.
Also, I doubt the penetrating lube would work unless the horn was clogged with something. Everything you would want to lubricate would be on the other side of a metal diaphragm from where you would apply it. To repair you just grind off or drill out the heads of the rivets, tap them out with a punch, split the horn open with a thin blade, gently sand the contact, and reassemble with a new seal and rivets or machine screws with bolts.
There are a bunch of resources online for rebuilding these along with vendors for supplies. I’ll try to post links to the best ones I found later today.
The screw on one side of the horn adjusts the tone by adjusting the contact, so you might be able to get the tone where you want by fiddling with that, or even wake up a dead horn by moving the contact around. Just keep track of where you started.
November 1st, 2018, 06:15 PM
#22
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Location: Central Mass
Posts: 174
Link to an article that explains how to rebuild delco horns and links to a place that makes kits:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-horn-rebuild/
Link to a youtube video that explains pretty well how these horns work:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-horn-rebuild/
Link to a youtube video that explains pretty well how these horns work:
November 1st, 2018, 08:36 PM
#23
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Alexandria Virginia
Posts: 319
After watching a really good You Tube video in which a guy rebuilds a 1980 Cadillac horn i decided to trouble shoot mine. I squirted some liquid wrench on the adjusting screw and i will let it seat for a day or two but wish i new what size 12 point socket or wrench to use or is it a special socket required? Does anybody know?
November 2nd, 2018, 06:01 AM
#24
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After watching a really good You Tube video in which a guy rebuilds a 1980 Cadillac horn i decided to trouble shoot mine. I squirted some liquid wrench on the adjusting screw and i will let it seat for a day or two but wish i new what size 12 point socket or wrench to use or is it a special socket required? Does anybody know?
I carefully used a set of pliers with teeth that fit around the nubs on the bolt and didn’t do any damage. They don’t take much force to turn once they’re free.
November 2nd, 2018, 10:03 AM
#25
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Location: Alexandria Virginia
Posts: 319
The original tool used at GM dealers back in the days is BT-6426 i saw it in the manual. Good luck finding it (i wish i could) in the absence i agree a nice set of pliers will have to do.
November 2nd, 2018, 10:38 AM
#26
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I dont know if you’ve been into the steering column on your ‘68, but I needed to change my turn signal switch at one point. Apparently ‘68 is a one year design (at least on the tilt column), the cover for the top portion of the column is pressed on and has a lip on it that makes for a cleaner look, but also holds in the switch even after you take out all the screws. Your supposed to yank it off with a special tool and a slide hammer. Good luck finding one of those either!
I must have spent a week trying to get it off before I bent some steel straps into a similar shape to picture of the tool in the manual and attached them to a steering wheel puller. Had it off in 30 seconds after that!
Your supposed to to put it back on with another special tool, I did find one of those on eBay... but you can also use a 2x4 with a rag over it!
Good of luck with your horn!
November 2nd, 2018, 04:49 PM
#27
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Alexandria Virginia
Posts: 319
Not surprised on the steering column. My horns are both incorrect with incorrect brackets so i am going to look for a set of 9000261 "A" and "F" notes and rebuild them both (unless they work great already). Mine are 9000 and 9004 but i cant tell which letters correspond to the note or were they are supposed to be located. The tool for the ignition key is another tough one to find and i bought one on eBay but the walls were so tin i ship it back to the seller who claimed they were made in the USA.....China is more likely. I took an old socket and made my own and it works great.
November 4th, 2018, 05:32 PM
#29
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Location: Central Mass
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Not surprised on the steering column. My horns are both incorrect with incorrect brackets so i am going to look for a set of 9000261 "A" and "F" notes and rebuild them both (unless they work great already). Mine are 9000 and 9004 but i cant tell which letters correspond to the note or were they are supposed to be located. The tool for the ignition key is another tough one to find and i bought one on eBay but the walls were so tin i ship it back to the seller who claimed they were made in the USA.....China is more likely. I took an old socket and made my own and it works great.
You can decode your old Delco Remy part numbers here: http://www.delcoremy.com/find-a-part/
Held up a T-40 to one of my horns and it looks like a very similar size/shape to the screw head, so an E-8 should be very close.
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