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Hallo
the rubber diaphragm inside the vacuum canister for the right-side headlight actuator , bigg and black has failed, 1966 Toronado.
I am looking for two vacuum canisters—preferably in good condition—for both the left and right headlights See the picture . The car is just so wonderful when kept in its original state, which is why I’m turning to you for help.
Many thanks in advance for your assistance, and warm regards from Germany! Wojtek
This may not be relevant, but I believe the 1965 Buick Riviera guys have a kit to convert a similar system to something completely electrical. Perhaps their solution could be adapted for you.
If you are not interested in that, start thinking about large rubber inner tubes which you might use to fix your vacuum canisters. On a much smaller scale I used similar rubber to repair vacuum power door lock switches recently. Look under my user name for my power door fix adventure.
Look around at your local hardware stores and online to see if you can get 1/32” thick (or metric equivalent) rubber sheets in sizes big enough to reproduce your failed diaphragm. If your diaphragm is has corrugated ribs (like cardboard) flat rubber sheets may not work. Or you may be required to get very creative about creating a new diaphragm that is oversized to allow it to move when vacuum is applied. Also be aware you may be able to cast (manufacture) a new corrugated rubber diaphragm if you can make a mold from the old one and get supplies to make a new one.
Warm welcome to the world of repairing 60 year old totally obsolete devices. Part of the fun is the creativity required to make them work like new….
This is a very interesting—and highly effective—system, featuring a delicate balance between spring tension and the vacuum mechanism. The sealing component must be ingeniously designed and seated with absolute precision; otherwise, it will distort, warp, and fail to function. The original system remains the best option and works flawlessly. Everything else is merely a compromise: modifications, repositioning, measuring linkages—only to find it still doesn't work—followed by drilling into the car's interior, installing new buttons, routing cables, and so on. In short, it entails a great deal of work with an uncertain outcome; surely, repairing or salvaging the original equipment is the best course of action.
