Muncie M21

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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 10:31 AM
  #1  
Zemanek889's Avatar
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Muncie M21

Hey guys looking for a Muncie M21 if anyone has got one please let me know. Thanks, Marty
Old Jul 11, 2012 | 12:53 PM
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From: Brazil Indiana
where are you located? it may help to find one closest to you. i have one that is completely disassembled that i may sell but i am not sure yet.
Old Jul 11, 2012 | 01:26 PM
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Are you looking for just any M21,or one that would be correct to your car? They changed casting numbers,and a few other things throughout the years,but the fit & function are pretty much the same.
Old Jul 11, 2012 | 02:37 PM
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Loc

I'm located in central Illinois.. And yes I'm looking for one that with bolt up to my car. 1972 cutlass rocket 350
Old Jul 11, 2012 | 03:12 PM
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Your car is a stick shift car, right? If you're converting from an auto you'll need to drill your crank for a pilot bearing.
Old Jul 11, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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i know it is not an M-21 but i have an M-20 that was removed from a 72 cutlass with linkage and factory hurst shifter. it has a lever for a non console car. i am missing one rod for the reverse lock out. i have not opened the side cover up to look inside yet. i even have 4 speed cranks, flywheels, bellhousings, pedals... i am in Brazil IN so maybe not to far to drive?
Old Jul 11, 2012 | 05:48 PM
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yes i will be converting from and auto and i am aware of drilling the crank for a pilot bearing..
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 04:35 AM
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All of the 72's came with the M20,which also have the 26-spline input,and the larger 32-spline output.Sounds like Eric has the perfect match.
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 10:51 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by tecar442
Your car is a stick shift car, right? If you're converting from an auto you'll need to drill your crank for a pilot bearing.
Years ago I got stuck helping a friend that had an olds auto engine in a Chevelle stick. The guy that did the swap didn't used a pilot bushing. What I did was turn down a pilot bushing on a lathe to fit the auto crank.

Just a thought.
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 11:37 AM
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It's not that simple.The input shaft of the manual transmission needs a hole deeper than the depth of the existing automatic hole,so you need to make a relief hole for the end of the input shaft to pass into.The adapter bushing also needs to be inset from the edge of crank.If it is flush with the end of the crank,it will not work,or be in a bind.The splined part of the input shaft actually starts to enter the crank.I think this is also why you see some manual transmission with the ears broke off.People think they can just keep tighetening the bolts to get the transmission to seat into the bellhousing.Nope.There is a reason why it is not going in,so don't force it.A home-made adpater bushing can be made,for those of you that have an engine that is assembled.It's only going to be about 3/8" long/deep,and you will need to drill a relief hole for a void,for the tip of the input shaft,but it will work.
Machining the crank would be the best option though.
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