I have a C-head low-compression 2-bbl 425 in a Delta 88 with two burnt, cracked exhaust valves that I need to replace, and since the stores do not carry the correct length valves for my engine I'm hoping somebody here might have the valves I need for sale. Good used valves are fine by me, as I'm on a budget and am not looking to do more valves than necessary as the others seem to be sealing just fine.

Here are the specs for the valves I'm looking for:

Head diameter: 1.625
Length: 4.557
45-degree seat angle
Forged letter "E2" "T2"
Paint code: Green

I will keep this thread updated as things develop, I may or may not turn out to need more than just the two although I sincerely doubt that, and I'm still waiting to hear back from somebody who may have some of these valves lying around (not counting on it though).

Also, the dipstick tube seems to have broken off during the wrestle with the driver's exhaust manifold, so I'm definitely looking for a replacement. I will try to get a picture or measurements once I'm able to fish the remainder out. Will update when I know more.

If anyone has a '67 B-Body single-exhaust driver's side exhaust manifold (the T-shaped one with the exhaust riser flap) and/or a crossover pipe that isn't partially crushed, I might be interested in that as well. Might have a go at repairing the ones I have, but it might be best to start off fresh while it's off the engine.

Thank you!

 

I have a few of the "A" 384785 exhaust manifolds. I'll have to check on the condition of the heat riser valves. Email me to discuss: drolds1@bellsouth.net. Thanks, Bob.

 

I can be second in line on that as well. Might even have the cross over pipe.

You might check with Greg at supercarsunlimited.com on the valves

Email direct at lemoldsnut@aol.com

Larry

 

The dip stick tube will be hard to find because it is the same for 400E 442 in 66 -67 and not reproduced that i know of.

I can be third on the "A" Manifold "T-shaped one with the exhaust riser flap" that works,

 

I usually can get by with repairing broken dip stick tubes, brazing works well and the top part can be reproduced with steel brake line tubing or the like.

 

You can also use a dip stick and tube for a 455 and it will work perfectly. Just looks different.

 

What happened to Walt's Reproduced Indicator Guide Tubes?

 

Thank you for all the responses, much appreciated! It's been a busy week, but I'll be sending some emails once I know for sure whether or not this manifold is repairable, still haven't had a chance to meet with the guy who offered to have a look at it. He figured it might be a good idea to have a look at what we're working with before committing to buy and ship one over, since it'd probably be a fair bit of money to ship such a heavy chunk of iron. I've been surprised by shipping rates before, though.

Likewise with any available crossover pipes, if a repair on the crushed bit on the underside of this one doesn't go over well. Not sure how flaky that metal really is, and how it'll hold up to repair attempts, but I'm not liking how restricted it looks (looks like about 50% flow restriction).

Great idea on brazing the dipstick tube if I can get the bottom portion of it out without crushing or damaging it, and double for the brake line idea. Still have a good amount of brake tubing leftover from running fresh metal lines on this car, so I might look into that.

Good to know that the 455 dipstick tube fits exactly the same, worst case I imagine I could get one of those pretty easily.

 

a 100% correct solution?

 

I'm sure I have the valves.
PM me


Gene

 

Hi all, sorry I haven't been around. Bit of an update on my parts situation:

Talked to the welding expert my friend knows and I guess we're aiming for next weekend to weld the ear back onto the broken manifold, drill out and replace the broken off stud that the end of the spring hooks around, and all of that. Thank you for the offers, I will still send out PMs or emails if we somehow manage to screw the manifold up beyond repair but it looks like we just might be able to salvage this one.

Also found a repro 350/455/403 dipstick tube that looks just about the same as mine, waiting on it to arrive. The real tricky part might be fishing out the broken portion of the old one.

As for valves, I found a reasonable deal on a full set of GM #385264 and #385265 equivalent valves, though they are NORS and I am waiting for them to arrive so I can measure them and be sure that they will work before I officially halt my quest for valves.

 

What method will be used to repair the exhaust manifold? It is hard to weld cast iron and a replacement manifold might work out better than the trouble of repair. I had a 66 S manifold done by a shop that does fusion welding. It is a process where powdered iron if blown into the torch flame and it builds up the cast iron like original. The result was excellent but expensive and shops that do this are scarce.

 

If you are trying to get the dip stick tube out of an assembled engine and not take the pan off, then use a body work slide hammer the kind that you put a screw in and it pulls on the screw. you can start a screw in the broken off tube in the block and be gentle and tap on the slide hammer a few times and it will come out.
Yea no idea how I know that right.

Broke one off doing headers once.

 

The guy who offered to try welding it up, my friend's stepfather, is a ~20 year Navy welder who's worked with all sorts of metals both in and out of the service, so I'm trusting that he knows what he's doing with cast iron, but yeah I've heard that cast iron's notoriously difficult to weld. The labor's practically free and he's anything but an amateur so I won't object... Different story if I was paying a shop money for an uncertain repair vs. giving him some beer in exchange for his time. I told him my situation and he said it'd be worth a shot before shelling out money for another manifold. It would definitely save a load of money shipping a big chunk of iron if it works out. If it doesn't, oh well, new manifold it is.

The broken piece is a small portion of where the center bolt and washer apply their clamping force, so with any luck it'll work out fine. Fusion welding sounds interesting, definitely the route I'd go if I had a bigger budget and knew the right people. I'll explore all my repair options before the manifold goes under the torch of course, as I do have a week to decide.


Hahaha that's a good idea. I'll have to see if I can't find or borrow one of those slide hammers. That'd probably be the easiest, most foolproof way to do it. Thanks!