455 Waterpump pulley needed
August 14th, 2016, 06:00 PM
#1
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455 Waterpump pulley needed
Okay folks, I've got some measurements of the 3 groove Waterpump pulley, ALL FROM THE FRONT OF THE PULLEY NOT THE BACK MOUNTING FACE- so overall front to rear 3", not using the first pulley groove, from the front of the pulley to the 2nd groove is 2 1/8" the third groove from the front of the pulley is 2 5/8" overall diameter is 5 5/8" I need a larger pulley if y'all can help me with what stamped code or if you have one that matches them measurements, thanks
August 15th, 2016, 02:55 AM
#6
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my setup isn't quite factory anymore, but as I drive through town I run 180* once I get on the interstate and run 65-70 it creeps up to as high as I let it until I put it in neutral and coast for a few miles, I've already had the 4 row radiator checked and cleaned, flushed the whole system, and upgraded to a flowkooler pump, it has a 5/8" restrictor washer in it, dual electric fans with a proper shroud, so I'm interested in trying a larger diameter pulley to slow the flow a little
August 15th, 2016, 03:34 AM
#7
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If it's creeping up in the highway I would be thinking about buildup in the block and possible restrictions from blocked passages between the block and heads.
I honestly think you're barking up the wrong tree with this, and this is why. You put it in neutral and coast and it cools down. You are not just slowing down the water pump, but you are not putting near as much heat into the water for it to try and remove from the system.
If the water can't flow through the block and out, then the heat can't be removed efficiently.
If It were me I would do a hard flush on the engine, and pull the drain plugs on both sides of the block to make sure to get as much out of it as possible. If you can find someone that has a flushing machine that uses agitated air that would be even better. I'm not a fan of chemical flushes if they can be avoided.
I honestly think you're barking up the wrong tree with this, and this is why. You put it in neutral and coast and it cools down. You are not just slowing down the water pump, but you are not putting near as much heat into the water for it to try and remove from the system.
If the water can't flow through the block and out, then the heat can't be removed efficiently.
If It were me I would do a hard flush on the engine, and pull the drain plugs on both sides of the block to make sure to get as much out of it as possible. If you can find someone that has a flushing machine that uses agitated air that would be even better. I'm not a fan of chemical flushes if they can be avoided.
August 15th, 2016, 06:00 AM
#9
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 48
If it's creeping up in the highway I would be thinking about buildup in the block and possible restrictions from blocked passages between the block and heads.
I honestly think you're barking up the wrong tree with this, and this is why. You put it in neutral and coast and it cools down. You are not just slowing down the water pump, but you are not putting near as much heat into the water for it to try and remove from the system.
If the water can't flow through the block and out, then the heat can't be removed efficiently.
If It were me I would do a hard flush on the engine, and pull the drain plugs on both sides of the block to make sure to get as much out of it as possible. If you can find someone that has a flushing machine that uses agitated air that would be even better. I'm not a fan of chemical flushes if they can be avoided.
I honestly think you're barking up the wrong tree with this, and this is why. You put it in neutral and coast and it cools down. You are not just slowing down the water pump, but you are not putting near as much heat into the water for it to try and remove from the system.
If the water can't flow through the block and out, then the heat can't be removed efficiently.
If It were me I would do a hard flush on the engine, and pull the drain plugs on both sides of the block to make sure to get as much out of it as possible. If you can find someone that has a flushing machine that uses agitated air that would be even better. I'm not a fan of chemical flushes if they can be avoided.
August 16th, 2016, 08:04 AM
#10
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Location: South Central Florida
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My question is "did you put a lower gear in the rear end". The lowest gear that the factory put in a car with a/c (large crank pulley and small water pump pulley) was a 3.23 ratio. The reason being that any more gear would spin the water pump too fast on the highway; thereby, not allowing the water time to transfer the heat to the radiator. When you put your car in neutral on the highway, the engine is idling, slowing down the water flow and you're putting a lot of air through the radiator to cool off the water quicker. Just another thing to consider.
August 16th, 2016, 08:41 AM
#11
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Yes I had 3.73 in it, then I broke the factory limited slip carrier and then went to a 3.42 and still had the problem, that's why I was wondering the same thing is the water/coolant even having a chance to absorb the heat and then transfer it out, when it's idling the water is really moving, I rev it up slightly and it's really really flowing, as soon as I let off the throttle it overflows the radiator and out the waterneck it comes. I've asked around for a different Waterpump pulley but no one seems to help, I've got the measurements but no ID number or digits 5 5/8" diameter, three groove, I only use the 2nd and 3rd grooves, which are 2 1/8" and 2 5/8" from the very front face of the pulley not the rear mounting surface but the front of the mounting surface
Last edited by raxefab72; August 16th, 2016 at 08:45 AM.
August 18th, 2016, 06:19 AM
#13
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455 Waterpump pulley
You have to have a "matched set" of pulleys on any engine. By this I mean that you probably can't just change to a larger w/p pulley, as stated above by SVNT442, as it would more than likely interfere with the larger crank pulley. It sounds like you're not running a/c. If that is the case, then you would need a matched set from a non-a/c application, which would have only two grooves, a smaller crank pulley, and a larger w/p pulley. Chris may be able to help you out with the parts id; or consult an assembly manual for your model.
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