Just need two things:

The passengers side door.
And the drivers side fender.

Located in Indianapolis, IN

 

FYI, the doors are interchangeable for 70-72 on all 2 dr hardtops (Cutlass and 442 as well as Supreme) and convertibles. The front fenders are interchangeable on all 70-72 A-body Oldsmobiles, including wagons. You may need to fill the trim holes, however.

 

Cool, i'll keep that in mind. Thank you. I'm very much so a novice when it comes to this car. I'm a VW person.

 

Farfenugen?? Baby, Velcome to Oldsmobile. Ve are not Jerrman ngineers, but ve haff a vay of making tings verk. Yah? I haff herd many guut kerse verds from sum Jerrman mekaniks verking on VWs and Porches alzo.

Anyway, Olds is a fun machine and I'm just having a little fun with ya because you say you're a VW guy. To each their own....

Quote:

FYI, ......front fenders are interchangeable on all 70-72 A-body Oldsmobiles, including wagons. You may need to fill the trim holes, however.

Yes, Joe is 100%, but (note) the 1970 fenders are fairly rare. They're worth more than the 71/72 fenders to a collector because they are a 1 year only production and don't have the insde ridge stiffening "bumps" on the inside surface. A 1970 fender will just have smooth contours. Just FYI.

You can get metal fender patches and door skins if you want and are handy with tools. Some metal parts aren't that hard to fabricate either. That lets you keep most of the original metal on the car.

You can even get fibreglass fenders for these years now. They won't rust, but I have no idea whether they fit properly or are as durable. I'm thinking they would be really labor intensive to install. You would also have to cut out the marker light openings and provide your own bracing and attaching hardware. I'd still go metal and prep the heck out of them.

Good luck with your project. Got any pictures?

 

lol, I dig it. Just been driving around Jetta's and Golf's for a few. You can have all the fun you want.

As for the car, I am trying to stay as original as possible. No fiberglass parts for me. The only thing wrong with the fender on the drivers side is the corrosion bottom (i'm assuming this is common).

I bought this off my brother not to long ago, and have finally had the time to start working on it. I will take some photos and post them up in a bit. It's in pieces right now, but the exterior is slowly coming along. After its done, it's going off to my friends shop, and we're taking the shell off and redoing the engine, suspension, and frame. And before you make a comment, yes, I know this is doing it backwards, but I want the exterior to look good before I worry about the engine and the underside (which are in good shape, so i'm not too worried).

Wow, long ramble. Pics up in a bit.

By the way, I just broke the front winshield....JOY. Any clue where I can get one? Can you buy them new, or do I have to go to a salvage yard?

 

There's one here. I just came from their yard, and saw it with my own eyes.
Decent dash too. 1 Crack in the pad....green interior
Doors are smashed, no front clip, no heads on the motor. seats are in it, but coverings trashed. rear bumper has checked tail lights, and a dent the size of a closed fist. door panels are ok, but weathered. all glass is good.
They will cut it out and ship it I believe, but the prices of such a task are unknown to me.
http://www.schmidtsauto.com/parts_and_salvage

 

Sorry to hear that the windshield broke. The windshield is pretty much the same one for Olds, Chev, Buick, Pontiac A Body cars and has a wide range of years. (1968-1972 if I remember right) If you've got a large local shop that's been around for a long time, they might have some in stock. It was a popular glass. If not.... I've had really good service from PS Auto Glass Inc.

Check their website: The glass you want should be at the bottom of this page: https://www.bserved.com/psautoglass/...idCategory=994

Decent pricing and shipping for a brand new tinted front windshield. BTW they pack REALLY WELL. Hard deal to beat. Double check with them b4 you buy to make sure it has the windshield antenna in the glass. While you're there, check the side glass. Sometimes they have a deal that's a real bargain - all the glass for the car at a discounted price for the package.

You are right about the rot area. It's typical of GM design back in the day. Water, dirt leaves etc would run off the cowl and down inside the fender bracing. SInce there wasn't anywhere else for it to go, it just collected and started to rust. Yes, you can get patch panels for that area of the car.

No, I'm not going to make any comment about the order you want to work on your car. After all, it's yours and you can decide how you want to do the work. Looking forward to the pictures.

 

Those corrugations are not for stiffening, in fact, just the opposite. They are designed to promote crumpling of the fender and thus energy absorption in a head-on collision. The 70 fenders, without the corrugations, are like a piece of angle iron aimed directly at your chest.

 

Now that you point that out, it just makes sense. I did not know that before. So, I guess if someone was restoring a 1970, would it be better or safer to go with the "crumple" fender even though it's not original to the car?

 

Lots of '71's have '70 fenders on them from the factory so check first. I noticed that the '71-2 fenders not only have the ridges but the vertical attachment bracket that goes to the firewall has a large oversized hole for the bolt and the '70 has a hole in the bracket just big enough for the bolt. The clearances probably got too tight, was at a show and checked a bunch of cars and the bolts were all over the place on those brackets, very few in the center like the '70's, you can see the firewall paint through the crecent shaped hole when it is off center. I have both types on mine, nobody even notices, the rippled one is on the driver's side so I'm in like Flynn.

Allan