1970 2-door power lock setup

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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 04:59 PM
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BSiegPaint's Avatar
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From: North Royalton, OH
1970 2-door power lock setup

***EDIT*** Found almost everything I want for this set up. I have new wiring coming, but I wouldn't mind buying a factory harness (or piece of one) to see where the attaching points are and where the connectors were placed. I have all the switches and such - really looking for the wiring that goes between the doors under the dash. What do you have?

I'm looking for a full power lock setup - solenoids and wiring harness - for a '70 Cutlass. If you have just the wiring, let me know. Just the solenoids, let me know. I'd like the solenoids to be is great shape and fully functional, but the wiring can be in need of some repair or rewrap - just needs to have all the odd connectors attached (single male or female connectors I can replace). It would also be nice if you had the '70 lock switches with the rounded corners and attaching clips as well.
Let me know what you have, please - send me a PM or you can email info and any pics to rasiegrist@gmail.com.
Thanks!

Bob

Last edited by BSiegPaint; Feb 18, 2020 at 05:19 PM.
Old Feb 9, 2020 | 08:02 PM
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 11:40 AM
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If your handy with a welder, I modified G body door lock actuators for my 69. If I remember correctly I had to make the mounting tabs a little longer. I had already installed door locks from a 70 vista cruiser so I drilled the holes for those lock actuators. If you don’t have any mounting holes drilled the the G body parts would be an easy install. I also used a door lock relay from a late 80s- early 90 Buick century, the later part is much more forgiving than the original relay. I made my own harness. I had to do a little fabricating to the lock rods to get everything to work. I like modern conveniences, but I’m also cheap!!
Old Feb 10, 2020 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by matt69olds
If your handy with a welder, I modified G body door lock actuators for my 69. If I remember correctly I had to make the mounting tabs a little longer. I had already installed door locks from a 70 vista cruiser so I drilled the holes for those lock actuators. If you don’t have any mounting holes drilled the the G body parts would be an easy install. I also used a door lock relay from a late 80s- early 90 Buick century, the later part is much more forgiving than the original relay. I made my own harness. I had to do a little fabricating to the lock rods to get everything to work. I like modern conveniences, but I’m also cheap!!
Well done. Now thats ingenuity alright.
Old Feb 10, 2020 | 01:39 PM
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BSiegPaint's Avatar
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Originally Posted by matt69olds
If your handy with a welder, I modified G body door lock actuators for my 69. If I remember correctly I had to make the mounting tabs a little longer. I had already installed door locks from a 70 vista cruiser so I drilled the holes for those lock actuators. If you don’t have any mounting holes drilled the the G body parts would be an easy install. I also used a door lock relay from a late 80s- early 90 Buick century, the later part is much more forgiving than the original relay. I made my own harness. I had to do a little fabricating to the lock rods to get everything to work. I like modern conveniences, but I’m also cheap!!
Hey, I'm with you! I've seen some folks charging quite a bit for a correct set up - but there are plenty of the solenoids out there to choose from if you're not being specific about the actual car model. The actuator rods, yeah, they would need to be fabbed up if the mount locations wouldn't match up right. Really the most important part of this is the wiring harness and the connectors. The '70 doesn't require a relay under the seat, while the '71-up does. As long as the wiring matches up, it really doesn't matter which I might find. I'm not the best at welding (find the thread where I mounted my power seats), but I get by... Thanks for the suggestions and the success story
Old Feb 10, 2020 | 06:09 PM
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If I remember right, the original solenoids ground thru the solenoid body, one wire makes the solenoid plunger extend, the other wire retracts it. The G body actuators work by reversing polarity to extend/retract the plunger. The relay from the Century switches polarity.

I did this conversion probably 20 years ago, so my memory on the details is a little fuzzy. All I can say is it works and works well.
Old Feb 14, 2020 | 06:19 AM
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Found everything I needed except the correct rounded edge switches. I'd rather have original if possible, but I can go with repros if I have to.
Old Feb 14, 2020 | 07:21 AM
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