I just completed this power seat setup. I rebuilt the cables, transmission, switch and everything that will come apart other than the motor. I put much more money into this unit that I should have. It turned out real nice and works very strong. Does have some pitting but not real bad. This is a complete power seat unit unlike the over priced ones listed on eBay. It has the plastic side rails but the console side is missing the part that runs around the back side. The door side is complete. Only thing needed is the power wire that runs to the fuse box. That is just a 10 ga wire and could easily be made. I will send it to ebay if nobody here wants it. $850 + shipping. I can email more pictures.

Now listed on ebay with no reserve.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221375735581...84.m1555.l2649

 

I recognize those side covers. You are missing the small plastic covers that go on the back of the seat track They are always missing. Nice track and not bad for the price.

 

I guess I don't know what part that is? Do you have a picture of them?

 

I will try to get a picture of mine and sent it to you. what is your email again. They slide on the back of the track in picture 3 there is a horseshoe shaped peice with a hole in it it slides on there and another pin, just like the one that holds the side covers on, retains it. Ed

 

The price of poker has gone up, big time!

 

My first one was nowhere near this nice. I listed it on ebay expecting it to bring $350 range and it went over $700. Since then I have been paying attention to them. I like rebuilding them. Each one i do gets better and better.

I will consider an unrebuilt one on trade.

 

$775 without the black plastic side rails. Headed to ebay Sunday evening.

 

Not to hijack your thread, because I wish you luck in your sale. But would there happen to be a thread on rebuilding these units? I have one in my Cutlass that seems to be in need of a gear or something. I did a quick search but couldn't find the right thread.

 

I don't think there is a thread on it. I was considering making one on my next rebuild. Almost all of them need taken apart and at the very least the transmission rebuilt. The factory grease is dry and thick after all these years. This will break a gear but more times than not it gums up the internals and it will not shift making you think it is a bad gear. If you take your time it is not hard to rebuild a transmission. Or if you want to take the transmission out and send it to me I can rebuild it for around $60 plus parts but it will not likely need parts. As long as the solenoid is good I can rebuild it. I do not have any extra solenoids but also have not had a bad one yet.

 

Thanks brother, I'll keep you in mind as the schematic looks a little intimidating LOL Your probably right about the gummed up internals. $60 sounds like it would be a well spent investment. I'll keep my eyes open for a thread in the meantime, while I collect parts and dough to get mine roadworthy again

 

X2 Eric!
I have a complete 4-way for my 72 but I'd like to restore it before it goes in. Got all the wiring you identified, plus the junction block for the other power options. Your work is outstanding, and I really hope you will post a thread on the rebuild of the next power seat assembly. (mine is for bench but I suspect it's going to be similar with longer cables going to the pax side?)

It would cost me a fortune to send it to you, and I'm trying to learn skills every year. When I do mine I might bend your ear a bit if that's ok?

 

I would prefer not to rebuild complete power seat setups for people but i will do the transmissions. For the complete units I prefer to buy them and then do them. There are alot of hard to find parts to them and if one is bad I have to sit on it for a long time till i find the parts. The cables are very hard to find and many of them are cracked on the ends. I had to sell my last one with cracks in it but it was still reliable.

 

Agreed, you need to focus more right now on finishing that W30!! Is there a way to test the transmission on the bench? I thought it needed to go through a relay.

 

You can test it. First thing is to spin the front pully real easy and feel if it is stiff or notchy. If it is either stop and rebuild it before you goof up the gears. It should spin very easy. If it has never been rebuilt it will be at least stiff. To test the solenoid just ground the case and then hit one of the two wires with the hot wire. You will hear a thump. with it energized spin the front pulley and see if one of the cable sockets start to spin. Then do the same thing for the other wire. If one or the other or both do not spin you need to rebuild it. I don't even test them because all of them should be rebuilt in my opinion.

And yes, I need to focus on the W-30 but I have to sell more parts before I can spend much more on it. I had enough to pay for the bodywork but then i bought more parts and have to start selling again. Now i am looking at two 66 toronados. I need them like a hole in the head.

 

Now listed on ebay with no reserve. Maybe someone will get a deal on it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221375735581...84.m1555.l2649

 

Eric, I have a question for you.
re: taking the 4 way switch apart and cleaning contacts. How did you get the cover off? I have several 4 way PS switches that I'd like to take apart for cleaning/restoring. One has a broken center toggle that needs replacing. Any help you can give (pics would be great) would be appreciated. I think the same toggle for a 6 way will work as a replacement, but I think they're plastic instead of metal?

 

On all 4 corners you need to push in the clip and pry them out. Some of them are rusty so they can brake easy. This one was not to bad and none of them broke. After you get them out you need to pry the little tab back out so it will lock into place when you put it back together.

This is not the switch on this power seat.

 

When you clean the contacts make sure you clean all 3 places. Each direction you move the switch it is making two contacts. One contact is for the motor and the other is for the transmission. You will want to clean both inner contacts and the little copper plate that is off center and for all 4 directions. Make sure when you put it together that the **** has the two longer tabs going top to bottom and not side to side.

If the **** is loose and floppy, I will very slightly bend each of the top contacts so that it puts more spring pressure on the ****. Just be sure all 4 contacts are even or the **** will not point to the center.

 

Excellent! I'm glad you posted those - I was thinking I had to pry the triangular piece up vertically to release it. That would have ruined the clip entirely. So the 'rounded' one on the side comes out the same way?

Do you know if the toggle on the 6 way is the same? They're really common out here on PS cars it doesn't matter if I wreck a couple taking them out. Just I don't like to wreck anything.

 

Rob,
Is this what you needed? This harness does not have the correct wire ends on it but it showes where each wire will go. Just don't confuse the dark green with the lighter green.

 

It has turned out that I still have this setup. I will make someone a great deal on it without the side black plastic parts. Make me an offer. If it don't sell I am thinking I will install it in a future build i have coming up.

 

Yes exactly, my box is a little different though. Gonna play with it tommorow
Thanks!