"BE" Master Cylinder
#1
"BE" Master Cylinder
Completely rebuilt with stainless steel sleeve "BE" Master Cylinder.
This Master is correct for all 1971-72 power disc brake cars including W30
$425 plus shipping.
Thanks
This Master is correct for all 1971-72 power disc brake cars including W30
$425 plus shipping.
Thanks
#2
1971-72 Original Master Cylinder
It seems many are not aware that this is the Master Cylinder for your car. If you have a 1971-1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass, 442 Including W30 and
if your car Has power disc brakes the "BE" coded Master is what you need.
I have been to the last 16 Olds Nationals and 95% do not have this Master on their car.
If you have a drum brake car the code is "CT"
If you have a manual disc brake car the code is "ST"
The "WK" sticker is just a quick reference for the guy on the line to install the right Master. It is an internal process that matches the build sheet. It is not what the stamped code is!
Thanks.
if your car Has power disc brakes the "BE" coded Master is what you need.
I have been to the last 16 Olds Nationals and 95% do not have this Master on their car.
If you have a drum brake car the code is "CT"
If you have a manual disc brake car the code is "ST"
The "WK" sticker is just a quick reference for the guy on the line to install the right Master. It is an internal process that matches the build sheet. It is not what the stamped code is!
Thanks.
#6
60193W30, the correct Master for 1970 disc brake cars, either manual or power is "EB", on all "A" bodies. The "ST" code is for all 1971-72 manual disc brake cars. It is extremely hard to find that Master.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#7
Sorry to hijack this thread but who in the continental US rebuild such master cylinders if they need sleeving and such?
I have rebuilt standardly.
I have rebuilt standardly.
Last edited by scrappie; January 10th, 2018 at 12:52 PM.
#9
I recommend Apple Hydraulics. They have done a few for me, and every one has been perfect. They sleeve the cylinders with brass, which I prefer. They will assemble the kit into the cylinder, however, they charge a premium for that work. I always install the kits myself when the cylinders come back. It isn't difficult, and all the kits come with diagrams and instructions that are easy to follow.
www.applehydraulics.com/
Apple Hydraulics
Hydraulic Repair Service
Address: 1610 Middle Rd,
Calverton, NY 11933
Phone (631) 369-9515
#11
An important point to keep in mind as far as Goldline Brakes rebuilding service is concerned, all their Masters are rebuilt using stainless steel sleeves. It is a lot more expensive but will not need rebuilding again.
#12
I have never had a brass lined cylinder rust, or have any other problems, unlike the stainless steel liner that twisted inside the bore. No question about it, everyone has their own preferences. Mine happens to be brass vs. stainless steel. I was only making a suggestion and giving another choice. If someone wants to go with stainless steel, there is also 2 more, and they also do excellent work.
R K Sleeving
60 North Central Avenue
Upland CA 91786 US
(909)-985-6611
www.rksleeving.com
and
White Post Restoration
1 Old Car Drive
Post Office Box D
White Post, VA 22663
(540) 837-1140
info@whitepost.com
R K Sleeving
60 North Central Avenue
Upland CA 91786 US
(909)-985-6611
www.rksleeving.com
and
White Post Restoration
1 Old Car Drive
Post Office Box D
White Post, VA 22663
(540) 837-1140
info@whitepost.com
#13
Brass wont rust it just corrodes much easier. Its a very soft metal. If you are going to the trouble to swap out a master in my opinion a completely rebuilt master with a stainless sleeve is the only way to go. Let alone how hard it is to find an original BE Master. Like I said earlier I already bought one and these are first class and rare as hell. Al
#14
If you want to have your master cylinder last a long time, do what I do: Flush the brake fluid every year.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture. Since the system is not fully closed off to the atmosphere, moisture gets in and corrodes the piston surfaces.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture. Since the system is not fully closed off to the atmosphere, moisture gets in and corrodes the piston surfaces.
#15
Not my thread but I think the intent of this thread is there is an item for sale and the benefits of the stainless sleeving and the fact that you will never have to replace your master again. Not to mention the rarity of this particular master. I know the seller and the effort he put in to find them and the costs to have them rebuilt in this manner. That’s why I also bought one off him.
#16
If you want to have your master cylinder last a long time, do what I do: Flush the brake fluid every year.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture. Since the system is not fully closed off to the atmosphere, moisture gets in and corrodes the piston surfaces.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture. Since the system is not fully closed off to the atmosphere, moisture gets in and corrodes the piston surfaces.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post