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Old November 7th, 2014, 10:47 AM
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Respirators

Ok a couple of paint questions I am putting my quarters on, and want to be able to shoot some primer on after the welding, I want to spray inside my garage ( just the primer) and just enough so I can move on to the next body repairs, I was told the ppg epoxy primer was best but doesn't that require an air fed system for respiration? is there a good primer I can use that I do not need an air fed system for, or do I just bite the bullit and buy the hobby air or similar? all ears..

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Old November 7th, 2014, 11:07 AM
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I am no expert here but the primer needs to be compatable with paint intended to use. I use Duplicolor primer sold at Advance Auto mixed with their reducer as primer for lacquer and just use a regular higher quality mask over my nose and mouth.
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Old November 7th, 2014, 11:32 AM
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Thanks..

Joe , Thank you , appreciated, I hear you but I wanted to upgrade the paint system, I am familiar and comfortable painting lacquer, but I wanted to avoid the future pitfalls ( I think we discussed types before in a previous thread) Lacquer is a nice system but it doesn't offer the same roadability as the newer systems do, and I plan on driving `this beast. I was thinking going with an epoxy primer, but I do not have a booth or a fresh air system I think I figured a way for the booth using a harbor freight portable garage
I'll add some ventilation etc but I am brain damaged enough, and wanted to primer what I have done ie right quarter, left quarter etc as I go, then when I am ready shoot and seal the whole thing... then work on paint.

I do hear you and lacquer was my first choice, but I have come this far ....

eddie
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Old November 7th, 2014, 11:45 AM
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I have used PPG DP primer a fair number if times, now again im no expert. Of course the better respirator you use is the better choice, but i just always have used the 3M cannister respirators and had no problems. I did shoot DP without a respirator back in the mid 80's, one time, MISTAKE. I was pretty sick for a couple of days. Probably killed off some brain cells, but think i came out ok. Lowes or Home Depot does or did sell the same 3M respirators that i bought at the paint store, they work good. Ask the counter guy where you buy the paint, they probably sell the 3M resp.
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Old November 7th, 2014, 11:59 AM
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Understood and that is why I can only use lacquer. I have no place to do anything else. I dont think those portable shelters would offer enough room to spray properly and with some sort of ventilation you will open up insect and dirt contamination possibilities. Its a tough call.
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Old November 7th, 2014, 12:50 PM
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I will try and find a spray booth to rent from a body shop... or build a bigger shelter, but it is a convertible and i could paint all but the stripes in pieces except for the rear half LOL... and the clear... days are long gone since you could walk into a paint store order the primer, paints and clear and get it done for a couple a hundred bucks.... my main concern right now is primering the areas I have finished while I move to the other areas.. I think the big issue would be the ISO;s I do miss the days of spraying 3-4 coats, wet sanding a few off, more coats more sanding and then clearing the whole thing... but it was a LOT of work...
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Old November 7th, 2014, 05:09 PM
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I have the hobby air and it works great! The only downfall is the large hose that you have to be really careful with as it likes to tangle or get in the way. However, it was way worth the $ and no fumes whatsoever. Just fresh air.
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Old November 7th, 2014, 06:08 PM
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Spray booth is the way to go along with a supplied air system.Two part paint contains isocyanide this is absorbed through the skin and water in your eyes.
It will build up in your system and you will become sensitized it has also been linked to death by WCB.
You have to think of your neighbors when you vent this out of your garage {Bad Idea}.
If you rent a booth you can not just trust that they have a clean air supply that you can hook your full face supplied air respirator to.
Some shops have clean air supplies with dryers air {coalescing spelling?} filters and quality compressors that don't push oil.
Bottom line the shop has to have air that is safe for a full face supplied air respirator. You can use a stand alone system but placement is important compressing/generating dirty air to breath was a concern in the past do to poor placement.

Educate your self before you start spraying two part or any automotive or industrial paint.
You only get your health once.
I was told by a few that Lacquer paint dose hart valve damage, I never looked into it but the guys were painters for what it is worth.

I have been out for a long time so I might not be fully up to date.

Last edited by Bernhard; November 7th, 2014 at 06:34 PM.
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Old November 7th, 2014, 06:38 PM
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According to my paint guy, they took ISO's out of DP primers back in the late 80's or the early 90's as I recall. I was in the middle of a paint job when this happened. The new DP seems to be as good as the old. I was distressed about it at the time, but it is what it is. Get a cheap paint suit with a hood and some goggles. A good disposable paint mask can be used quite a number of times, the canister filters are replaceable on them.
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Old November 8th, 2014, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by steverw
According to my paint guy, they took ISO's out of DP primers back in the late 80's or the early 90's as I recall.
This is correct. Obviously read the label on the can, but today it's usually just the clear coat that has the isocyanates in it.
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Old November 8th, 2014, 07:02 AM
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I'm not a doctor, but I did watch House a lot. That being said, don't take my advice for what it's worth. DP is still some nasty stuff. There are also two different types of hardener, so read the MSDS sheet and uses. It stays wet in the air for a long time, so it will leave a nice coating on your lawnmower and weedeater. Even after the overspray is gone it still has an odor of solvents evaporating from it that will gag me, while I'm removing the masking. But then , I can't change the cat box without gagging my guts out. It dries like a rock, and literally will not come off of anything accidently covered, with any type of ease. Do small areas, and let the overspray clear out. Be weary of any shop that lets a stranger use there paint booth . I can't imagine the amount of liabilities that could be associated with that. There is a reason restoration shops can be somewhat pricey, and it's not because oodles of cash are stacked in the bank. You may be ahead, by the time you buy or build anything, to just pay the labor to have it done.
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Old November 8th, 2014, 11:07 AM
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Some very good points.
Just because it does not use a ISO hardener does not mean it is safe or any better.
Like I said before I have been away form trade for some time.
Just because it is water base does not mean that it is safe.

All solvents are not good for you there is a long list of negative effects.
Three of my favorite on the list are.

1.Birth defects.
2.Causes nervous system damage.
3. Carcinogen.

I don't have clinical proof of the above but some veteran painters were odd I being nice.
Guys that I have known have had cancer and growths in the throat and nose is it because of the trade /paint I don't know.

Last edited by Bernhard; November 8th, 2014 at 11:10 AM.
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Old November 8th, 2014, 10:13 PM
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Thank you all, going to see the minimal I can get away with spraying, and find someway to get an air system
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Old November 9th, 2014, 08:40 AM
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Remember, your canister type respirator has a limited time that it will work and it thinks it is working even if you have it on or not. When you are not using it place it in a air tight bag or coffee can or you can find yourself sucking bad air through a respirator that looks good but has expired setting on your bench where you left it last week......Just my thoughts ...Tedd
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Old November 10th, 2014, 05:38 AM
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thank you sir...

Thanks ted excellent advice , and you are100%! Correct I did know this but the. reminder is great. Better check the shelf life as well this has been a long project
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Old February 11th, 2015, 12:40 PM
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I plan to do most of my sealer primer with DP, using foam rollers and paint brushes.

No booth needed and if it lays out well it should provide a nice base for the Hi build primer.. I might roll that too

Hell, maybe I'll even do the topcoat with a roller and brush!
(but I do paint boats for a living this way all the time)
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