Tony's Bamboo DIY Paintjob
#1
Tony's Bamboo DIY Paintjob
Gentlemen,
I'll be using this thread to document the bodywork i've done.
1) New fenders (Tamraz's), absolutely fantastic OEM Fit
2) Good used OEM door/decklid, needed a strip and repaint
3) Repro driver side 1/4 panel (needed alot of work to fit right) and wheelhouses
So, 5 years ago i bought a Cutlass, found it in a field outside ottawa rotting away into the sticks. Here's a photo.
This is today, 5 years later, tried to do everything either NOS/good used OEM parts from the great guys on this forum. I bought really good quality base/clear paint and FINALLY got the clear coat painted on yesterday. Needs a cut and a buff but i think i have a solid base to work with.
I'll be using this thread to document the bodywork i've done.
1) New fenders (Tamraz's), absolutely fantastic OEM Fit
2) Good used OEM door/decklid, needed a strip and repaint
3) Repro driver side 1/4 panel (needed alot of work to fit right) and wheelhouses
So, 5 years ago i bought a Cutlass, found it in a field outside ottawa rotting away into the sticks. Here's a photo.
This is today, 5 years later, tried to do everything either NOS/good used OEM parts from the great guys on this forum. I bought really good quality base/clear paint and FINALLY got the clear coat painted on yesterday. Needs a cut and a buff but i think i have a solid base to work with.
#3
Thanks! the can says I used PPG 3.5VOC basecoat/clearcoat system.
It's an absolutely fantastic paint. This is my first job and with a cut and butt i think it'll really shine.
It's an absolutely fantastic paint. This is my first job and with a cut and butt i think it'll really shine.
#6
Are you in the 5-1-4? Have i seen your car at car shows around here? I know of two cutlasses in the nearby area, one is white supreme, the other is a red vert.
#10
Thanks Gentleman for the feedback.
It's definitely not a perfect Job. As i said it was my first time painting a whole car. But i can honestly say i'm happy i spent the money on good paint, it's VERY forgiving and i would use it anytime.
If you look close you can probably see some dust spots. I've still got alot of research to do on how to cut and buff paint. I dont want to do it wrong and remove all the clearcoat. There's between 3 and 4 coats of clear on various parts of the car.
It's definitely not a perfect Job. As i said it was my first time painting a whole car. But i can honestly say i'm happy i spent the money on good paint, it's VERY forgiving and i would use it anytime.
If you look close you can probably see some dust spots. I've still got alot of research to do on how to cut and buff paint. I dont want to do it wrong and remove all the clearcoat. There's between 3 and 4 coats of clear on various parts of the car.
#11
So i started out by wire-wheeling my driver side quarter panel and having a heart attack. LOOK AT THE ROT. I thought i would get away with some patch 18 gauge metal. but it went deeper... and deeper... until i needed a new outer quarter wheelhouse.
After which, i ended up removing the quarter panel (pretty close to the repop i bought) and fitting on the wheelhousing.
Low and behold, i had to tack/retak a thousand times before the fit was good..
After which, i ended up removing the quarter panel (pretty close to the repop i bought) and fitting on the wheelhousing.
Low and behold, i had to tack/retak a thousand times before the fit was good..
#13
Tony, did you grab the license plate that was sitting on the trunk in the before pic? The Ontario (?) one with the letters TNT?
Good to hear the clear coat is on now.
So is it ready for another run to Ottawa?
Good to hear the clear coat is on now.
So is it ready for another run to Ottawa?
#14
I need to go visit Dick just oustide ottawa, he has a set of glass for me because mine is completely rotten ugly.
So much literature, so little time...
#15
I'm not sure yet! is that proper for a cutlass with a 350? I was reading in the assembly manual that the only time cars came with dual exhaust in 72 was with the 455 option?
So much literature, so little time...[/QUOTE]
i would guess many more cars now have cut-out bumpers than
gm produced.lol
it is your car you will have to decide what you like better
So much literature, so little time...[/QUOTE]
i would guess many more cars now have cut-out bumpers than
gm produced.lol
it is your car you will have to decide what you like better
#16
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Tony, go with the cutout bumper. I just finished the dry fit on mine Tuesday. Did you by chance just take off the bumper or did you also take off the bumper brace on the rear frame? If you took the bumper brace off you'll have fun reinstalling it and fitting the bumper to specs. It took me 2 1/2 hours to get my bumper fit just right - exactly perfect to factory specs. (here's a link to the pics) Test fitting the new Rear Bumper
As you can see I'm putting the cutout on my 350 car. I'm not misrepresenting it, I just love the look. Soon as my car is drivable I'll put the trumpets on. If you're in the market for a good used set LMK, I have a very good used spare set.
As you can see I'm putting the cutout on my 350 car. I'm not misrepresenting it, I just love the look. Soon as my car is drivable I'll put the trumpets on. If you're in the market for a good used set LMK, I have a very good used spare set.
#17
quarts,pints ,litres
Tony, what quantity of paint does it take to complete a 2 door cutlass paintjob?
And how much did it cost you in materials ? If you don't mind . Mine will be ready for paint soon, (I've been sayin that for 6 months now!!)
And how much did it cost you in materials ? If you don't mind . Mine will be ready for paint soon, (I've been sayin that for 6 months now!!)
#18
But i did the door jambs. and the inside of the trunk and everything. So maybe if you were just re-painting the outside you could get away with a bit less?
All in all with sandpaper and de-greaser, i spent around 450 dollars.
Regarding the trumpets, i'm trying to find a picture of a bamboo cutlass with white pinstripes and trumpets.... I think it could look really cool. But i also really like the look of the elusive turndowns.
Al, your bumper looks incredible. And i didnt take off the frame braces, i just removed the bumper bolts and lenses.
#19
Also, finally got my W-29 hood emblem in the mail today, 40 dollars shipped from fusick :O wow these things are expensive.
It looks crooked from the angle but it's actually completely straight, i used the factory punched holes.
It looks crooked from the angle but it's actually completely straight, i used the factory punched holes.
#21
#22
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
So if a guy didn't have an already pierced W29 hood...he could get away with using a grill emblem and just drill the holes needed? When you say "almost exactly the same" what is the difference? Is it just the emblem pins?
#23
Hood Emblem: The S and R and both filled in because the pins are behind there
Grill Emblem: the S is NOT filled in, the R is similarly filled in, and the O is a bit thinner on the south east side.
You can see it really clearly in the fusick catalog here.
honestly, i WISH the two were the same, woulda saved me 40 bucks shipped to my door...
#24
Well, apart from the pin locations being different, the only difference i can see is as follows.
Hood Emblem: The S and R and both filled in because the pins are behind there
Grill Emblem: the S is NOT filled in, the R is similarly filled in, and the O is a bit thinner on the south east side.
You can see it really clearly in the fusick catalog here.
honestly, i WISH the two were the same, woulda saved me 40 bucks shipped to my door...
Hood Emblem: The S and R and both filled in because the pins are behind there
Grill Emblem: the S is NOT filled in, the R is similarly filled in, and the O is a bit thinner on the south east side.
You can see it really clearly in the fusick catalog here.
honestly, i WISH the two were the same, woulda saved me 40 bucks shipped to my door...
#25
Tony, the car looks great, looks like you did a fantastic job. As for the bumper decision, it is up to you. I went with the cutout bumper like Allan just because to me it says "Oldsmobile" ! Here's what mine looks like:
2013-08-27_17-02-33_805_zpsd041954b.jpg
2013-08-27_17-02-33_805_zpsd041954b.jpg
#26
Now I am confused. The grille emblem I ordered from Fusick has the S filled in. I wonder if they sent me the wrong one. Not that it matters since I was using it in a custom application. But I was having trouble lining it up with the black plastic piece that goes behind it on the grille and ended up making my own.
If you like the next time in ottawa you can have my OEM emblem since i dont need it. I just need to find it...
#27
I love the look of the cutouts, but i think i'm gonna go with turndowns. I'm trying to put my car back to exactly the way my dad had it in 72'.
Here's a picture of my dad's cutlass the day he bought it. (Circa Nov 1971).
My parents still own this home, so it'll be nice to take a photo come november of this year.
#28
#29
Tony, thanks for the offer, but I have made holes in the grille for the one I got, so no going back now!
Now, the question is, are you going to try and find a set of those hubcaps?
I'll email you about an Olds meet in Ottawa.
I was looking through some project pics of my Cutlass and found this. I guess that even from the factory, there might have been differences.
HeadlightPainted.jpg
Now, the question is, are you going to try and find a set of those hubcaps?
I'll email you about an Olds meet in Ottawa.
I was looking through some project pics of my Cutlass and found this. I guess that even from the factory, there might have been differences.
HeadlightPainted.jpg
#30
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Tony, I know you have lots to still do, but the bumper needs adjusting. On the right side, it's too high and needs also to be moved back a bit and tipped in at the bottom. Those 4 bolts that hold the bumper braces give almost infinite flexibility to do that. You just need to get them undone for that adjustment. If they're badly rusted, get a new set from ILT - they're spot on for proper fit.
Check the body to bumper alignment on the 'before' and after pics and you'll see what I mean. I know the old bumper was trashed (and I'm taking into account it was also smashed at the top center) but the lineup on the top to quarter and deck lid are what you're trying to recreate. Should only take about an hour of playing.
Check the body to bumper alignment on the 'before' and after pics and you'll see what I mean. I know the old bumper was trashed (and I'm taking into account it was also smashed at the top center) but the lineup on the top to quarter and deck lid are what you're trying to recreate. Should only take about an hour of playing.
#31
Tony, I also have a 72 in Bamboo and am getting ready to paint. You said you used PPG 3.5VOC basecoat/clearcoat system. How many options did you find with PPG and what were the price differences? Not sure if any of this is even legal here in Calif. Mostly water based I hear...
#33
Of course when i painted the car i forgot to throw the eyebrows in the pile with the stone shield and headlamp buckets.
Hopefully i can go back to the paint store and just order a spray can of the WA4024 paint..
#34
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
You guys have more decent weather down there right now than we do out here. It snowed yesterday and the overnight here was -10. Supposed to warm up to around 8 for the rest of the week. Yeah, I guess waiting to get those on won't kill anything. It's just a little awkward now with the fenders on. Not impossible to do though. Hope all is well with ya bud!