Hi all,

We have our engine out for a rebuild and it's ready for paint. I purchased one quart of the Eastwood Oldsmobile Gold and activator. My machine shop doesn't have an area to spray (the normally use aerosols), and don't want to try brushing the paint.

I'm looking for input/feedback on applying this paint by brush. Does it cover ok and provide a nice finish, any difference in color when brushed vs spray, other things to think about or know???

I going to try to see if I can find someone local to put the paint in aerosol cans, but not sure if that can be done since Eastwood uses an activator.

Thanks in Advance!

 

I've been spraying Bill Hirsch Olds gold on a bunch of parts this weekend and it looks great - just like I remember it (for all that's worth...).

I guess that probably didn't help you much.

- Eric

 

Spray over brush

/end thread

 

Thanks guys. I stopped by an auto paint store an bought a Preval spray system (www.prevalspraygun.com). It should allow us to mix the paint and activator and spray on just like an aerosol. Guess we'll start with the oil pan just in case. I'll let you know how it works. And thanks again for the feedback and advise!

 

Although I know it wasn't a factory engine color, I used Por-15 black engine paint on my block and brushed it, it dried like porcelin.

 

Do post the results of the preval gun - I have been eyeing that thing for a while now for jobs like this.

 

You can't get the motor clean enough when prepping for engine paint....especially the "tin parts"(oil pan, valve covers, etc).

Get some good wax and grease remover and do your best to use a roll of paper towels (or some type of lint free wipes) to get the thing clean.

Lacquer thinner is one of the worst things you can use as a "wax and grease" remover. It's OK as a "first wipe" to help remove oils, etc but not a good final step at all.

The cleaner you can get it the better that nice paint will look (and stick).

 

Why do you say that?

I've been using lacquer thinner for years for small parts, and it's always worked great. You've got to give it at least a "secondary wipe" to pick up any junk you've loosened, the same as you would with PrepSol, or whatever, but it gets darn near everything off (I've occasionally had to resort to acetone for particularly stubborn paint chips), and it evaporates quickly, so you don't have to wait for that other stuff to flash off.

Now, for painted surfaces, obviously, lacquer thinner can mess up the underlying paint, and it's not a good choice there, and for very large, dirty areas, like greasy engine blocks, I like kerosene followed by a strong detergent, because the kerosene is cheap, and takes a while to evaporate, giving you time to scrub.

I'm sticking with my lacquer thinner.

- Eric

 

Have at it.

 

So, no reason why "lacquer thinner is one of the worst things you can use as a 'wax and grease' remover?"

Okay.

 

Please let us know of the results. I plan on doing the same thing only with Eastwood's 455 blue including the hardener. It'll be interesting to know if the preval unit will lay out the paint smooth. Thanks

 

What about Aerosol cans for Engine paint?
I only want to paint the valve covers for now. Is there one brand that’s better than others? I do not have a spraying system so not too eager to buy a $35 quart. For a 71 Supreme

 

I used the Preval system years ago(20) on some interior parts with good results. Its good to see it still around. Sprayed really smooth.
Harbor freight also has a 'you fill it' aerosol can that worked decent although it did not clean up very well. Might be worth a look.

 

I've had good luck with Bill Hirsch engine paint.
Good color match and finish.

- Eric

 

I brush painted my block and sprayed the valve covers. The brushed paint was very glossy and bright. The sprayed paint was duller with less depth. This is nit picking though... I could not have sprayed the block with it in the car.