Protective paint for Underside
#1
Protective paint for Underside
So my dad and I are getting ready to spray the underside of my 72 Supreme as well as the engine compartment. I'm having it painted black and I'm wondering what would be the best black paint to use to somewhat help protect the car from rust as well as look somewhat decent? I've seen several different kinds online but I just wanted a few recommendations from products actually used vs what the companies say about their products. Thanks in advance!!!!!
#4
Here we go.
POR-15 isn't really a painting paint, it's a rust sealer coating meant to paint over active rust (seen rust come right back through it many times though?) it isn't meant for general painting, peels right off without a UV protectant (and with it anyway), doesn't adhere to non rusted surfaces well, funky finish and color, very expensive.
I know how to prep for paint and have never had anything but problems with the stuff, seen guys have to strip it all off their frames and underbodies after it goes south several times, they just wouldn't listen.
The best thing is not to be lazy and get all the rust off and do it right to begin with.
I learned my lesson a long time ago along and won't let the stuff near my cars along with countless other car guys, I actually hate the stuff.
If you have to use rust paint on your farm implements the Eastwood stuff is way better and you don't need special very-very expensive thinners to spray it and clean your equipment.
To each their own, go ahead and use POR-15, weasel leavings, wombat fluid, whatever... a person has the right to screw up their own car all they want.
If you prep the surface correctly all you need a is a good semi-gloss lacquer and it will last nearly forever with proper maintenace and be factory correct, look ten times better too. Why does everone think they need some kind of bulletproof forever underbody coating? Where and what do you plan on doing with the car to have it be that susceptible to rust? I did the underbody and engine compartment of my GTO 15 years ago with Eastwood underhood black which is the correct gloss % and black shade and it looks like I did them yesterday, and I drive the car plenty. The underbodies and frames really don't take that much abuse unless you're driving down gravel roads all the time.
POR-15 isn't really a painting paint, it's a rust sealer coating meant to paint over active rust (seen rust come right back through it many times though?) it isn't meant for general painting, peels right off without a UV protectant (and with it anyway), doesn't adhere to non rusted surfaces well, funky finish and color, very expensive.
I know how to prep for paint and have never had anything but problems with the stuff, seen guys have to strip it all off their frames and underbodies after it goes south several times, they just wouldn't listen.
The best thing is not to be lazy and get all the rust off and do it right to begin with.
I learned my lesson a long time ago along and won't let the stuff near my cars along with countless other car guys, I actually hate the stuff.
If you have to use rust paint on your farm implements the Eastwood stuff is way better and you don't need special very-very expensive thinners to spray it and clean your equipment.
To each their own, go ahead and use POR-15, weasel leavings, wombat fluid, whatever... a person has the right to screw up their own car all they want.
If you prep the surface correctly all you need a is a good semi-gloss lacquer and it will last nearly forever with proper maintenace and be factory correct, look ten times better too. Why does everone think they need some kind of bulletproof forever underbody coating? Where and what do you plan on doing with the car to have it be that susceptible to rust? I did the underbody and engine compartment of my GTO 15 years ago with Eastwood underhood black which is the correct gloss % and black shade and it looks like I did them yesterday, and I drive the car plenty. The underbodies and frames really don't take that much abuse unless you're driving down gravel roads all the time.
Last edited by Bluevista; November 24th, 2010 at 02:45 AM.
#6
Eastwood.
I would not use POR-15 ever again. You are already past the point of using it (paint over rust) anyway if you are ready to put on a finish coat.
P.S. It does not stick to good metal.
I would not use POR-15 ever again. You are already past the point of using it (paint over rust) anyway if you are ready to put on a finish coat.
P.S. It does not stick to good metal.
Last edited by slowolds; December 16th, 2010 at 01:14 PM.
#7
I've pulled POR15 off in sheets & chunks from the frame of a 69 elcamino that had been blasted clean & supposedly prepped.
If you do not have RUSTY metal, then you have to follow their instructions to the letter to get it to stick properly.... Which leads to the question, why not just use a good standard epoxy primer and black chassis paint, especially since you will have to top coat the por15 anyway.
If you do not have RUSTY metal, then you have to follow their instructions to the letter to get it to stick properly.... Which leads to the question, why not just use a good standard epoxy primer and black chassis paint, especially since you will have to top coat the por15 anyway.
Last edited by RAMBOW; December 16th, 2010 at 01:34 PM.
#8
I've pulled POR15 off in sheets & chunks from the frame of a 69 elcamino that had been blasted clean & supposedly prepped.
If you do not have RUSTY metal, then you have to follow their instructions to the letter to get it to stick properly.... Which leads to the question, why not just use a good standard epoxy primer and black chassis paint, especially since you will have to top coat the por15 anyway.
If you do not have RUSTY metal, then you have to follow their instructions to the letter to get it to stick properly.... Which leads to the question, why not just use a good standard epoxy primer and black chassis paint, especially since you will have to top coat the por15 anyway.
#9
Blue, I can't speak for everyone, but I know the reason I am going to be looking for some type of "magic potion" to keep the floors in good shape is that it was soo much work to replace them. It's not a job I am looking forward to, or want to do more than once per vehicle. I think it's a valid question.
#11
Ditto on the Zero Rust. It comes in several colors. I used their rattle cans to paint the underneath of my car black. Car was on a lift; it was easy to use; it covered nicely and it looks original. Not that my car ever sees anything wet, anyway; but it's just good to know the Zero Rust paint is there for protection!
Randy C.
Randy C.
#12
so what is a good epoxy primer that i can get over the counter and what is the Eastwood product you all have mentioned , isnt that called Chasis Saver or something?
Last edited by oldsguybry; January 3rd, 2011 at 10:47 AM. Reason: ancient Chinese secret?
#13
Por 15
I used POR and top coated it with their product. I highly reccommend it. I sandblasted the frame and all the suspension members first and it worked awesome. I put on 3 full coats, (spray gun) and then 2 coats of the topcoat. It is very durable and resists impact very well. I have dropped tools, bumped it with the forklift leaving nary a mark!! It is far more durable than any paint product I have used in the past. However I don't believe I would trust it straight over rust regardless of what they say. Just my 2 cents
#14
I have been restoring my 83 HO and have been happy with Summitt's Epoxy Chassis Black when applied to sandblasted parts. I considered POR-15 but it is expensive when you include the cost of their Metal Prep (which they say is required to make it stick to bare metal) and a top coat (because POR-15 will be broken down my UV). In the end i wasnt convinced that POR-15 was worth the extra cost. I do however believe it is perfect over rusted services.
#16
I agree Zero Rust is a great product, I've been using it for several years and highly recommend it. I get it from MFG sealants by the gallon for under $70 w/free shipping. The black leaves a nice satin finish that looks correct on frames etc. It doesn't have uv protection like epoxy, but frames, core supports etc. don't usually see the sun. It doesn't have isosionates either, so it's great for hobbiest. Here's a link:
http://cart.mfgsealants.com/products...st-Gallon.html
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0127_large.jpg
http://cart.mfgsealants.com/products...st-Gallon.html
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0127_large.jpg
Last edited by ragz442; May 14th, 2011 at 08:57 AM. Reason: added pic
#17
I just finished detailing the undercarriage of my car, and after thorough research, I decided to go with ZeroRust using the aerosol cans, and bought a quart of the liquid for minor touch-ups, which many of the above posts mentioned. It is very easy to work with, and comes in both an aerosol and liquid paint. I'll attach a few of the shots of what it looks like. Feel free to PM me and I can send you larger photos. Also, I can give you some tips on what I learned from going through this process.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RecycleD72
Body work
4
February 19th, 2010 04:04 PM