phosphoric acid rust removal

Old November 1st, 2013, 06:36 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by brddg View Post
Exactly. I use muratic acid on large body panels that blasting can work-harden and warp with blasting. The rust will actually come up through the checks and cracks in the original lacquer paint. After you remove the paint ( I use an electric buffer and a 3M 9" soft pad with 80 grit at about 1200 rpm) pour the acid on and spread it around with an old push broom or similar. This process will actually get into the pits the rust creates. It will turn yellow as it works, rinse it off with a hose (not high pressure as you don't want to splash this on anything) dry and repeat. Then I use dish soap and a scuff pad to clean thoroughly and dry and blow off, ready for primer now. Wear two pair of gloves and a respirator and a long sleeve sweatshirt and treat this stuff like it will kill you. For smaller parts a blasting cabinet is just far easier and faster but they do need a large compressor to run. For the frame/radiator support etc you need a pressure pot blaster and the room associated with doing this. Wear a respirator when using the cabinet and sand blaster also.

Do you use pure muratic acid?
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Old November 1st, 2013, 06:38 AM
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Also a easy paint remover is easy off heavy duty oven cleaner. Spray on, let sit and wipe off
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Old November 1st, 2013, 07:39 AM
  #43  
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Yes. Muratic acid straight from the bottle.
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Old November 1st, 2013, 09:08 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by brddg View Post
Exactly. I use muratic acid on large body panels that blasting can work-harden and warp with blasting. The rust will actually come up through the checks and cracks in the original lacquer paint. After you remove the paint ( I use an electric buffer and a 3M 9" soft pad with 80 grit at about 1200 rpm) pour the acid on and spread it around with an old push broom or similar. This process will actually get into the pits the rust creates. It will turn yellow as it works, rinse it off with a hose (not high pressure as you don't want to splash this on anything) dry and repeat. Then I use dish soap and a scuff pad to clean thoroughly and dry and blow off, ready for primer now. Wear two pair of gloves and a respirator and a long sleeve sweatshirt and treat this stuff like it will kill you. For smaller parts a blasting cabinet is just far easier and faster but they do need a large compressor to run. For the frame/radiator support etc you need a pressure pot blaster and the room associated with doing this. Wear a respirator when using the cabinet and sand blaster also.
I was using a 25gal compressor , and that was not big enough for blasting , but it worked . I think the lower pressure may help with not warping panels , but takes forever . I cleaned up my fenders on the inside this way where the fender brace sits , and they're just fine .... a few years prior to that I was blasting some small underbody parts with a homemade cabinet with a built in exhaust fan , but I was still smelling the silica dust . This was before they outlawed silica sand . Not so smart on my part , but I didn't do that to many times ... even with a paper mask outside , you still get dust . If at all you can afford it , get a respirator like you said , as long as the filters are new you should be ok .
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Old November 1st, 2013, 10:11 AM
  #45  
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Well my pressure pot blaster will take the skin off your fingers very quickly if you slip up. The amount of pressure it puts to the surface is too much for wide unsupported sheet metal like roofs, trunks etc. I got an ss chevelle hood from a blaster many years ago it was absolute junk, wasn't even slightly flexible anymore. I do whatever will fit in the cabinet out of convenience as well, the sandblaster makes a hell of a mess and it's painful to use. I usually end up with sand behind my eyeballs when I use it so it only gets pulled out for the big stuff which I do all at one time.
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Old November 1st, 2013, 10:30 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by brddg View Post
Well my pressure pot blaster will take the skin off your fingers very quickly if you slip up. The amount of pressure it puts to the surface is too much for wide unsupported sheet metal like roofs, trunks etc. I got an ss chevelle hood from a blaster many years ago it was absolute junk, wasn't even slightly flexible anymore. I do whatever will fit in the cabinet out of convenience as well, the sandblaster makes a hell of a mess and it's painful to use. I usually end up with sand behind my eyeballs when I use it so it only gets pulled out for the big stuff which I do all at one time.
I may not have done a ton of blasting in my life , but I learned real quick about how much it sucks . I would have myself all tucked in , and I would still be picking sand out of my briefs when I was done . It works great in hard to reach areas though .
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Old November 1st, 2013, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by oldsguybry View Post
I was using a 25gal compressor , and that was not big enough for blasting , but it worked . I think the lower pressure may help with not warping panels , but takes forever . I cleaned up my fenders on the inside this way where the fender brace sits , and they're just fine .... a few years prior to that I was blasting some small underbody parts with a homemade cabinet with a built in exhaust fan , but I was still smelling the silica dust . This was before they outlawed silica sand . Not so smart on my part , but I didn't do that to many times ... even with a paper mask outside , you still get dust . If at all you can afford it , get a respirator like you said , as long as the filters are new you should be ok .
Silica sand is outlawed? I bought bags last year to blast my 29 ford tractor rims.Maybe just in the US it is
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Old November 1st, 2013, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by oldsguybry View Post
I may not have done a ton of blasting in my life , but I learned real quick about how much it sucks . I would have myself all tucked in , and I would still be picking sand out of my briefs when I was done . It works great in hard to reach areas though .
Dude! What hard to reach areas are you talking about???!!!
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Old November 1st, 2013, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by brddg View Post
Dude! What hard to reach areas are you talking about???!!!
I meant the blaster gets into hard to reach areas ( on the car )
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Old November 1st, 2013, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle's 77 Cutlass View Post
Silica sand is outlawed? I bought bags last year to blast my 29 ford tractor rims.Maybe just in the US it is
That's what the person at Farm & Fleet told me . Now they offer this black colored sand in place of the silica sand , which seems about the same .
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Old November 1st, 2013, 10:54 AM
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If silica sand were outlawed, they'd have to outlaw beaches.

When I was a kid, we used to sandblast with "pool sand," and I can assure you that you can still get pool sand, and several other grades of sand as well, at any lumber yard.

The black stuff is better, though - sharper and holds less water.

- Eric
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Old November 1st, 2013, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic View Post
If silica sand were outlawed, they'd have to outlaw beaches.

When I was a kid, we used to sandblast with "pool sand," and I can assure you that you can still get pool sand, and several other grades of sand as well, at any lumber yard.

The black stuff is better, though - sharper and holds less water.

- Eric
Actually your right . There's silica in all sand / dust , so maybe the outlawed part is just what ELSE they were putting in it .
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Old November 2nd, 2013, 03:05 PM
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Silica dust from sandblasting with sand is very, very bad for your lungs. The only safe way to use it is with a fresh air system.
The other media - coal granules (the black stuff), glass, walnut, etc - are much safer for you.
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Old November 2nd, 2013, 08:17 PM
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didn't think sandblasting was bad for you. Now I know
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Old November 3rd, 2013, 06:31 AM
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For those interested:
"Preventing Silicosis and Deaths From Sandblasting" by the CDC
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/92-102/
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Old November 3rd, 2013, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by oddball View Post
For those interested:
"Preventing Silicosis and Deaths From Sandblasting" by the CDC
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/92-102/
That's scary .
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Old March 29th, 2015, 09:55 AM
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Has anyone done a direct comparison of "Blue Lightning" vs. "RPM Lightning Strip"?
They seem to be very similar except the Blue Lightning is a lot more expensive.
Don't mind spending the extra money if it's worth it.
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Old June 28th, 2015, 01:05 PM
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Looks like it would work okay
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