So I have only used a rattlecan to paint small parts. I am going to try to beat the weather and paint my engine this week.
Ive got the eastwood gold engine enamel paint and activator/hardener, and I have some 2k engine primer from eastwood in rattlecans. Eastwood mentions that you can thin (reduce) the gold paint for spraying, and they mention the hardener is optional but reccommended.

Will the hardener act to thin the paint any, or would I need an additional thinner?
I see that "generally" mineral spirits can be used to thin enamel paints for spraying.. would that work with this paint if i find i need it?

My engine came painted black on the block and silver paint on heads. It has not been run any and this paint came off pretty easily, but not completety at all.
My oil pan, intake, waterpump and valve covers are all new and unpainted and probably all cast aluminum...

Should I prime everything, or just prime the previously panited parts, or should i just prime the bare metal parts?

I know I need to clean everything, and I have a respirator, an air dryer and a basic HVLP gun from northern tool

 

The hardener does not thin the paint. Look at what the base parts of the paint are. I would advise against mineral spirits. Look for Xylene or butal acitate. Those are reducing agents for enamel paints. Acetone may be another possibility. Llok on yhe paint can and you will see one of those as a base to the enamel. Thin paint only enough to be able to spray it. Paint too thinned out will not cover properly.

 

Thanks I do have xylene leftover from something......

BUT.... I am forgetfull......Im going to verify when I get home, I just remembered I also bought on a seperate order some satin black for my truck interior. My invoice shows I did buy the 50104ZP eastwood brand urathane reducer which is the same as they reccomend for the engine paint.... So my laziness has paid off....I mean I still have to find it

 

Not unlike learning to weld, practice will help you learn about your paint gun and the viscosity of paint. When I taught myself to spray paint (not that I ever got that good) I hung a bunch of sheets of newspaper on my garage door and practiced a lot.

 

Ive been putting it off just because i have never done it.... but I think Im ready to give it a shot this weekend....

 

If you don’t have reducer, lacquer thinner will work just fine in enamel paint. Another choice would be acetone. My wife has fingernail polish remover that’s 100% acetone. I have been known to swipe that on occasion. However, you can get a gallon of reducer at pretty much any auto parts store. Automotive enamel is not oil based, so stay away from mineral spirits or traditional paint thinners.

What parts I would and wouldn’t prime depends on what type of primer you have. Epoxy primer and self etching primer are the only products that will adhere to bare metal. Unless your paint is a special DTM formulation(direct to metal) it will not adhere to bare aluminum. Neither will a standard primer surfacer. Also, primer surfacer must be sanded prior to applying topcoats. Regardless of what you use, just read the tech sheets to make sure it’s the right tool for the job. If you need help interpreting them or have any questions just post them up.

 

I’ve been training painters for over 20 years. The only thing I can compare it to is playing an instrument. Chances are, if you can play an instrument you’ll have no trouble learning to paint. It requires rhythm, good hand eye coordination and a hefty dose of talent. Some people it just comes natural, others have to work at it. But either way, practice practice practice is the only thing that will make you really good at it.

Luckily it’s just an engine, which is a good thing to practice on since having the gun pattern dialed in perfectly or laying the paint out slick is not necessary for a good result. Walking that very fine line between getting it slick and running the paint is what gets most people in trouble.

 

That's a good analogy! I learned to paint 40-odd years ago in a two-year Auto Body Restoration and Refinishing program at the local Vo-Tech School while I was in high school. Since then I've painted two cars completely and many small projects. I hang the paper and practice for about 15-20 minutes, getting the pressure and spray pattern just right, before I point the gun at the project.

To the OP, watch your air pressure at the gun, and make sure your air is dry with no water or oil in the line. This is critical!

Good Luck!

 

Ive been spending my evenings stripping everything back the best I can. I would have been in better shape if the engine builder had left the paint off. I called eastwood and they tell me the 2k engine primer i have will stick to, and is reccommended for bare metal, and the gold paint works an bare metal too...

Im going to get my tent setup in the shop tonight and get everyting organized and ready.

 

It's an engine, mix the paint as per the instructions, make sure your surfaces are oil free, don't use primer, and paint it evenly with no runs. Inspect after it's cured and touch up as necessary.