I made sure the lines are clear. Wipers work fine. All the gaskets seem soft and pliable. It's just not moving any fluid.
DO the internals look correct?

[IMG][/IMG]

 

I have the same trouble - all looks OK, even rebuilt the pump part. No good. All lines are clear and I have current at the pump connectors when pushing the dash button.

Same question - "What gives?"

 

I dunno Game, I took the pump part off, turned it by hand about ten times, cleaned it up a bit and now the pump [actuates?]. But it still doesn't suck. and this is one of the few things we really want to suck
I'm going to pick up a new [valve body?] tomorrow, (that square thing that the hoses hook to). If I play with the little rubber stoppers I can get air through it but a second later it stops.
I'll let you know if it works. Advance has the valve body and entirely new pumps if that helps.

 

So you're saying that the solenoid pulls the arm onto the plastic ratcheting gear, and that the pump goes through several cycles of operation, then releases, but that even though the piston is moving, no water comes out, right, Mac?

If so, then, yes, a rebuild kit ought to fix it right up.

This is a common failure mode for these. The rubber valves and piston seal dry up and stop sealing.
The good news is that a kit containing all the parts is easily available, easy to install, and costs about five bucks, if I recall (it was a few years ago, anyway).

- Eric

 

Just did my 64 dynamic 88. Kit worked fine. But check to see if the nozzles are clear, mine were caked with gunk. And make sure the lines are actually clear. I blew air into mine and both had an obstruction.

 

The kit I bought for my 67 442 only came with the new plastic 3way cap and gasket. My actual bellow had a small tear in it. I do not remember the name of the company that carried the bellow. It was a Corvette company.

 

Yup, Advance has it for about $6.50. At first the rathceting gear wouldn't turn but there was a small rectangular shaped sheet metal thing in the way, or not placed correctly. I fooled around with it until it worked.

Lines are clear. I blew compressed air through them and replaced a coule of the hoses.

I think my bellow is good to go. If not, Advance has the entire pump mechanism for about $20

 

The reviews for the ACI pump (advance) all say that it doesn't work with the cover on and recommend using the old one. Won't be a problem for me but I thought I'd mention it.

 

After driving to town I figured I MAW get the entire pump for $20 rather than the valve body for $7-ish. It would take me $6-$7 in gas to get there and back if I had to go back. The pump works great and is A LOT quieter than my old one. And the cover seems to work fine. The only thing that surprised me was that the washer stream didn't even hit the windshield.....but the rear window and truck got nice and clean
A little bending and I'm good to go.

 

You are lucky to have a newer car you can get parts for. I had to send mine off and have it rebuilt to the tune of $200, but it works like new now.

 

True enough but look at your ride. That's sweet!

 

Does anyone know where to get the double armed ratchet pawl(?) that's held on with the clutch head screw? The arms on mine are bent so they don't contact the cog teeth and the drum doesn't turn as it should.

 

After putting a pump kit in mine it still did not work. I had to prime the pump several times and it finally started working. Hope this helps.

 

The only thing that surprised me was that the washer stream didn't even hit the windshield.....but the rear window and truck got nice and clean
A little bending and I'm good to go.[/QUOTE]

That could be a nice option to have at the drive-in. Geeez my wife could be laying on the trunk getting ready for the movie to start, Jus a little squirt and she's already wet before the movie starts. Put-'r' ther !!!

 

This?

[IMG][/IMG]

Oh wait, do you mean the bent arm held on with C-clips? You can have whatever you need off my old one. Or I can just send the whole pump. Just pay for the ride?

 

No, it's the white plastic piece on the left side that has two arms on it, a long outer arm and a short inner arm.

Sorry, I thought the clutch head screw would identify it.

 

Never seen one of those for sale separately.
I don't think GM listed it separately, either.

I'd say it's a junkyard item.

- Eric

 

You're assuming I know what a clutch head screw is
I need a specialized tool to get it off?
PM me your address in case I can get it off. Or like I said, I'll send you the whole pump if you'll pay for shipping.

 

I completely understand. I learned what they were when trying to remove the secondary metering plate from a Holley 600 back in the late '80s. I didn't know there were so many different screws.

Not really. These days I have a couple sizes of clutch head screwdriver bits in my screw driver / nut driver / allen driver set, but back then I just used a flat blade screwdriver that fit diagonally across the widest part of that bow-tie inset.

OK.

 

Well, now I've got some things to check once I get the engine compartment back together later this year! 1) verify physical operation of plunger mechanism and 2) prime the pump and line before trying again.

Thanks for everyone's input!
Rich

 

Well if your engine bay is anything like mine was, you won't have to look too far, lol. This was mine before...

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