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Well after sitting for 20 years (at the previous owner) I finally got my 63 back on the road. The previous owner had rebuilt the engine and trans, and then sadly became terminally ill.I purchased the car from the son in law who represented the estate. So far I've had to replaced the starter, wires, plugs, cap, rotor, upgraded the points to a pertronics ignitor 3 with the coil as well. Car is starting to run well but the trans is fairly vauge--its the roto hydramatic (which I know was never popular in its best days). I'm impressed with how smooth and quiet the car is, not to mention it scoots down the road just fine! I just replaced the oil pump gasket and have most of the oil leaks down to a manageable level but am now losing coolant--Sometimes from the heater core but more often out the overflow....Did these cars not come with an overflow container? Is it normal for coolant to spew out after climbing a hill?
I had no idea as to how rare these cars were until I started to look for parts....wow to say the least!
I appreciate all your insight and help, I'm having a blast getting this old gem back on the road.
Yes, the transmission is not the greatest thing GM made but if adjusted good and not hot rodded to hard they will usually last well for no more than they get driven these days.
They did not have overflow bottles for the antifreeze. Do you know the health of your radiator? I am finding that nearly every one of these cars I play with need major attention to the radiator. Do you have a temp gauge on it or just a light? If it is over full it will have some come out from expansion. If it is coming out from pressure you either have a bad cap or the temp is to high on the engine.
For sure hard to find parts for these cars. Not enough people working on them to get the reproduction houses to make parts. Body parts are tough to find. I have some 62 and 63 parts but not many good body parts.
These cars are famous for cooling problems going back to when they were new. They didn't have the experience then that they have today with aluminum motors. Have the radiator inspected ( check for hot spots by feeling the core after car is warmed up) Also I would drain and flush the system and refill with a good antifreeze such as Prestone. and run a 160 thermostat.
Congrats. A few points. First, coolant overflow tanks didn't exist when this car was new. Second, most people who have not previously owned a car this old don't know that you are not supposed to fill the radiator all the way to the top. There is supposed to be an air space inside the radiator for expansion. On my 62 F-85 I typically fill to the top of the core only. And finally, the reason these cars had cooling problems is not because GM engineers didn't understand aluminum motors, it was because owners treated the motors like cast iron. They used plain tap water, which turned the inside of the cooling passages to something looking like wheat paste. I run a proper antifreeze mix in mine and have had zero cooling issues in the eight years that I've owned it. The radiator is the untouched original that came with the car.
Congrats. The radiator is the untouched original that came with the car.
My 4 speed Jetfire is the only 215 car I have had that the original radiator was ok in. The others were either already re-cored or I had to re-core them. Speaking of radiators, send me information on your extra crossflow. Wondering if it has the original top and bottom rail on it. The originals have 1/4 inch holes along the edges. Maybe 3/16 holes?
About oil seeping or small leaks. My 55 would seep oil from the pan, valve covers and fuel pump if I used a synthetic oil, not nearly so much if regular dino oil was used. I don't know if this is your issue or not but the old style cork gaskets don't much care for synthetic oil.... Tedd
Thank you all for your help and insight. In the course of the last 24 hours I've learned a couple of things....
1. My Rad does not spill out the overflow unless it is filled to the top with coolant---which I now know makes sense. ---Big thanks to Joe.
2. My other leak which I feared was the block heater is not..It is actually the water heater control valve. If I have that valve closed it pisses coolant and if it is open only a light trickle---but that is definitely where the coolant is coming from. I'm waiting for the car to cool down so I can take it apart..Is this a fixable item or replacement part? I'm assuming there is a gasket in there?
That being said I have ordered a 160 thermostat and gasket--as per Ancient Iron's advice which will be in tomorrow as well.....Getting closer!
Last edited by dbaum; May 3rd, 2018 at 02:19 PM.
Reason: spelling
Congrats. A few points. First, coolant overflow tanks didn't exist when this car was new. Second, most people who have not previously owned a car this old don't know that you are not supposed to fill the radiator all the way to the top. There is supposed to be an air space inside the radiator for expansion. On my 62 F-85 I typically fill to the top of the core only. And finally, the reason these cars had cooling problems is not because GM engineers didn't understand aluminum motors, it was because owners treated the motors like cast iron. They used plain tap water, which turned the inside of the cooling passages to something looking like wheat paste. I run a proper antifreeze mix in mine and have had zero cooling issues in the eight years that I've owned it. The radiator is the untouched original that came with the car.
The antifreeze back then isn't what it is today. They had problems with these motors. Also I do agree that most people don't or didn't properly maintain them.
I've been involved with these cars since 1978. In 40 years time I think I've learned a bit about them.
2. My other leak which I feared was the block heater is not..It is actually the water heater control valve. If I have that valve closed it pisses coolant and if it is open only a light trickle---but that is definitely where the coolant is coming from. I'm waiting for the car to cool down so I can take it apart..Is this a fixable item or replacement part? I'm assuming there is a gasket in there?
The heater control valve on these cars is not readily available and expensive when you find one. I adapted a newer mechanical valve to bypass my leaking original.
I got a cable operated heater control valve like this from NAPA. I'm afraid I don't remember whether it needs to be push-to-open or push-to-close. Just look at which way your cable moves under the hood when you move the lever to HEAT.
May 3rd, 2018, 07:24 AM
