lowering
#3
The only experience with lowering cars I have had was with tuner cars. There are always "kits" out there for that. I did cut the springs on a friends cutlass before and the ride was terrible. Airbags are my ideal set up but your right, cost is no joke. I guess I was just seeing if there were any kits out there like from eibach or someone that will lower the stance. If not then I guess I could cut untill I have the $$$ for air bags. There is no other way huh?
#4
I tell you what, I just remembered a place you might go to get some info on this. It is a website I go to sometimes that talks about this kind of stuff, you might try asking over there.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/
Hope this helps
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/
Hope this helps
![Wink](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#5
Back-In-The-Day Lowering
The most common way of lowering a car like yours,back in the 60's,would have been
to use lowering blocks (basically metal spacers) installed between the rear axle housing
pads and the spring in the rear.This mounts the rear springs,and the body, lower by
whatever thickness blocks are used.Extended length U-bolts are needed to replace the stock ones.
There are many ways to lower the front.They range from "insanely expensive",like
specially made front spindles,to the cheapest way that we used to do in high school.
We would find someone with an acetylene torch,put a couple of bricks under the
front bumper or frame(whichever one you wanted to set the ground clearance by),
get about 5 guys to stand on the front bumper and then heat the front coil springs
to cherry red and the car would settle onto the brick spacers.When they cool,remove
the bricks and drive away!
Others simply cut one coil from each front spring.I always hated th idea of cutting
a good stock spring.
Of course there are drawbacks to heatng the coils.One is that it reduces the space
between the coils,and therefore there is less vertical travel of the suspension now
before the springs become completely compressed.When this happens the suspension
bottoms out and can deliver a severe jolt when you hit an unexpected dip.
You might check out a J.C. Whitney catalog.They used to sell lowering block kits by
mail,and they also used to offer some coil spring clamps that were made to be used
to clamp the front coils down to where you like it by just tightening a couple of bolts.
I will check the exhaust manifolds you wanted this weekend to make sure they are
usable.I work in Plano on Jupiter Rd. just north of the Bush Freeway.We should have
no problem hooking up to get them to you.
If you will send youe email address,I will try to send you a couple of pic's of my
'40 Ford coupe project.
Regards...MickeyD
to use lowering blocks (basically metal spacers) installed between the rear axle housing
pads and the spring in the rear.This mounts the rear springs,and the body, lower by
whatever thickness blocks are used.Extended length U-bolts are needed to replace the stock ones.
There are many ways to lower the front.They range from "insanely expensive",like
specially made front spindles,to the cheapest way that we used to do in high school.
We would find someone with an acetylene torch,put a couple of bricks under the
front bumper or frame(whichever one you wanted to set the ground clearance by),
get about 5 guys to stand on the front bumper and then heat the front coil springs
to cherry red and the car would settle onto the brick spacers.When they cool,remove
the bricks and drive away!
Others simply cut one coil from each front spring.I always hated th idea of cutting
a good stock spring.
Of course there are drawbacks to heatng the coils.One is that it reduces the space
between the coils,and therefore there is less vertical travel of the suspension now
before the springs become completely compressed.When this happens the suspension
bottoms out and can deliver a severe jolt when you hit an unexpected dip.
You might check out a J.C. Whitney catalog.They used to sell lowering block kits by
mail,and they also used to offer some coil spring clamps that were made to be used
to clamp the front coils down to where you like it by just tightening a couple of bolts.
I will check the exhaust manifolds you wanted this weekend to make sure they are
usable.I work in Plano on Jupiter Rd. just north of the Bush Freeway.We should have
no problem hooking up to get them to you.
If you will send youe email address,I will try to send you a couple of pic's of my
'40 Ford coupe project.
Regards...MickeyD
#6
I'm bringing this one back up because I called www.airbagit.com and they have a kit for around 1600$. That includes the air tanks and all fittings and hoses. Thats not a bad set up for that price. I'm gonna be setting my car on the frame when I do the lake pipes, that just looks cool when its parked and pancaked. If anyone is interested check out the website. If there isn't anything for your make and model you can give em a call. They might not have it up on the site and they are also in to making custom set ups.
#7
Olds Stuff
Hey Pauly,
I saw that you are located in Wylie.
I'm wondering if you are aware of the Sachse Rodshop on Plesant Valley Rd.
in Sachse?
They are right down the road from you.
See Wayne Killabrew if you go in and tell him you are my friend.
MickeyD
I saw that you are located in Wylie.
I'm wondering if you are aware of the Sachse Rodshop on Plesant Valley Rd.
in Sachse?
They are right down the road from you.
See Wayne Killabrew if you go in and tell him you are my friend.
MickeyD
#8
I will check that place out. I have seen some paint shops around my area but I just moved here from California so I haven't found all the good stuff yet. Thanks for the tip Mickey. I'll check it out this weekend hopefully.
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