Hi All
Ivan in Bulgaria has a 1964 Cutlass that he's working on. I sent him the wing window and door regulator and offered to take pictures of the disassembly to help him with the install. So here's a series of pictures with comments from two different doors showing the steps. I don't remember the limit of how many pictures per posting, so I'll take several posts to display the process.

Here's a complete door. The first step is to remove the door panel, One in good shape will have one screw at the top front, and several in the carpet across the bottom. Then there will be small nails that go into plastic clips fastened to the door going up each side.

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Remove the two large Phillips screws that hold the arm rest on
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Remove the smaller Phillips screw holding the door handle on, then wiggle the handle back and forth to remove.
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You need a tool similar to this to remove the clip holding the window crank on. Then wiggle the crank back and forth to remove it from the splined regulator much like the window crank.
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This is the step where you'd remove the screw at the bottom of the door, and gently pry out on the sides to pull the nails out of the plastic clips. Then pull up on the door panel from the two ends.
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Most doors will have the paper or plastic vapor barrier behind the door panel
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Here's one of the plastic clips that the nails go into
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Here's an overall that's cleaner and easier to see
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To be continued.....

 

Here's the bolts that need to be removed to pull the door glass, regulator and wing window. You can use a 7/16" socket to remove them, and then things will be loose inside the door.

This first one is a nut on a stud that holds the inside rail which is also attached to the wing window assembly.
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The two bolts above hold this bracket to the inside of the door
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Now that the bolts are removed, slide the regulator as far forward as possible to get it out of the rail attached to the bottom of the door glass.
Do this by pushing in on the spline shaft that the window crank attaches to, and pushing the whole assembly forward.

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Now push the window glass up by reaching through the holes in the bottom of the door. When you can see this piece through the hole stop and remove it.
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Same 7/16" socket
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Now hold the glass up and gently rock it, getting the front corner to go down and pulling up the back corner.
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You can remove the glass from the door
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To remove the regulator work it toward the back and slide it out the largest opening in the door
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The wing window has some more fasteners that must be removed. One screw in the top corner, then a chrome bolt just over the edge in the front, and a chrome nut on a stud below that. I almost forgot another Phillips screw that's very long and goes in at the rear bottom corner of the wing window
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Now push in the stud low in the door, if need be you can use a screw driver to thread it in
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Gently rock the wing window assembly to free it up
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Pull up and rock back to remove the front part
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As you pull the assembly up and out rotate the window channel 90 degrees to pull the stud out of the door
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Any questions let me know, if anyone else has something they can add for Ivan and others in the future feel free to post it. John

 

If you change the title a bit, it would make it easier on a search to find it. Very informative. Everyone should have a high dollar car frame as a work bench.

 

Oops! I forgot to include taking the glass out of the wing window channel. This took me a while to figure out myself, but here's some pictures of the steps I found that worked.

Remove the nut/washer and spring on the bottom
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Remove these two Phillips screws
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Now you can flex it here where the stainless steel meets the chrome plated pot metal
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You'll need to remove the rubber seal around the glass as you pull the glass out
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Yes, that's a 1964 Cutlass convertible frame that may be going to another member here. I'll take a stab at changing the title... I agree it would be good to make this easier to find. Eric if you have a better idea your welcome to change it more. John

 

Great pictorial! I'd bet this would work on more than just the 64 Cutlass though. What other years used this - I think it was up till 69 on hardtops?

 

Hey Allan, the hardtops through 1968 had wing windows but I'm not sure if the large window glass was attached in the same way. I thought I took more pictures of removing the glass from the wing window frame but haven't found them yet. I started this last month but work got busy on me and I haven't had as much time to play with the car stuff.

John

 

You're back to work and loving it? How are the new knees holding out?

 

Back to work yes, but some days I just tolerate it Mostly the politics in the office or when I have a cranky member of the public that I just can't make happy. Those are the days I'm glad to get home and relax after work.

Knees are doing well. I've had a couple difficult days that caused them to swell and be grumpy. But still really glad I had them done. The inconvenience and slight pain now is nothing like the constant pain from before

John

 

John, glad your knees are doing better, and I'd be willing to bet they will feel a lot better with a little more time. That title ought to work well, and the same principle applies to all hard top years that have a vent window. The steps would probably work for those years that came after the vent window also, although the fasteners may be in different locations. Thanks for taking the time to do it.

 

Because this topic was made for me(respect that John!), i would like to say"BIG THANX FOR MY MAN JOHN!!"
Thank you very much John,i'm sure this topic will be very informative for a lot of car enthusiasts,,,,A lot of old US classic cars from these years share very similar door assembly..(2 door hardtops and convertables from 60's),
so once again"THANX!"

 

John on the wing window to remove from the channel was it screws ? From Bro442 sight it shows a rivit that you twist and pull.

Sad to see the vert being parted.

Edit : sorry the rivit I was thinking of is two that hold the chrome trim around the glass only not the weather seal and channel to hold it in the door just incase some one wants to check out 442bro.com it has a how to do it section for 64/65 a body

 

Thank you oldsata,for the link,,,also very informative...

 

I haven't been to the 64/65 site in a while. I'll have to check out their how to do it section.

Yes, the amount of work it would have taken to fix the vert would have been much more than the costs of buying one in decent condition. The red one I bought a few years ago was $3900 and it was complete with a rust free body and worn but usable interior. John

 

John, I may note the "post cars" are more difficult. I started with bare doors that Run to Rund sourced for me. I discovered that after I fully restored and installed the vent window assembly I had take it all back out to get the window down in the door frame and reassemble. But first set the regulator in the bottom of the door, then I positioned the window about half way up with duct tape ( you can this on a post car) so I could bring the regular up where you can attach the rollers and so on I can get more into if there are other out there that need more info

 

Hey rob did you by chance replace any of your rollers for your regulator ?

 

No sir, they were actually good.