Door adjustments
#1
Door adjustments
Well I'm going to buy a 1972 Cutlass convertible, picking it up on Sat.
The doors need to be adjusted, they are a little low. They need to be lifted just a little when you close them. I hope I can loosen the door mounting bolts and move it up a little. Or if someone knows the proper way to adjust them I would really appreciate the help. Thanks Barb.
The doors need to be adjusted, they are a little low. They need to be lifted just a little when you close them. I hope I can loosen the door mounting bolts and move it up a little. Or if someone knows the proper way to adjust them I would really appreciate the help. Thanks Barb.
#3
Yes this is the 1st thing to check but since it is a convertible hopefully the frame is solid as they are prone to rot. Sometimes too the catch pin can be adjusted slightly to make up for the worn hinge pins.
#4
Auto parts stores sell a brass bushing kit (and a special tool, if you want to try to use it) to repair the hinges, or, as has been mentioned, they can be replaced.
To be sure it's the hinges, just pick up the end of the door and lift - if you can pick the door up and lift it freely about ¼-½" (especially if you can watch the hinges and see the movement there, or hear the play at the hinge pins as you wiggle it), then it's the hinge.
Door hinges, especially the driver's side, are a reliable wear marker, so if they're shot, the car has likely got a lot of mies on it. If you're buying it as a "low mileage" car, they're lying.
Also, as Joe said, "sagging" doors are a sign of frame (or unibody) rust on convertibles - if the hinges aren't worn, I'd watch out. If the seller lets you put a floor jack right under the back of the door (and, no, I don't recommend actually jacking a convertible up this way) and lift it a few inches, and if there isn't much change in how things fit (there will be some change, even if it's a time-capsule, "brand-new" car), then you're probably good.
If the seller flips out at the idea, then you should just keep walking.
- Eric
To be sure it's the hinges, just pick up the end of the door and lift - if you can pick the door up and lift it freely about ¼-½" (especially if you can watch the hinges and see the movement there, or hear the play at the hinge pins as you wiggle it), then it's the hinge.
Door hinges, especially the driver's side, are a reliable wear marker, so if they're shot, the car has likely got a lot of mies on it. If you're buying it as a "low mileage" car, they're lying.
Also, as Joe said, "sagging" doors are a sign of frame (or unibody) rust on convertibles - if the hinges aren't worn, I'd watch out. If the seller lets you put a floor jack right under the back of the door (and, no, I don't recommend actually jacking a convertible up this way) and lift it a few inches, and if there isn't much change in how things fit (there will be some change, even if it's a time-capsule, "brand-new" car), then you're probably good.
If the seller flips out at the idea, then you should just keep walking.
- Eric
#5
OK Thanks for the reply. The undercarriage frame, All looked good. Never gave the car sag a thought. If that were the case I hope you would see a rusty frame. Now you've got me scared, I'll give it another good look before I buy.
Thanks Barb.
Thanks Barb.
#6
Remember, they all have some flex if you jack them up right at the edge of the door (which you are not supposed to do) - my personal estimate would be about half an inch at the top of the door - but a "sagging door" can be a sign of a bad frame (if it is a bad frame, then you'll be able to close the door with the car empty, but it will seem hard to close with you sitting it it, and it won't close with a carload of passengers).
- Eric
- Eric
#7
I have a hardtop but I'm pretty sure converts have small brass strikers or wedges on the upper rear corner of the door to help with rigidity and avoid door sag. See if they're still there, maybe the doors were swapped?
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