carbs
carbs
I got a serious carb leak going on in my 56 s88. I want a Holley carb to replace it but again finding the right one has become a problem. I read the a lot of Chevy 350 parts can be used on my engine. Can I use a carb that is for a chevy or do I need to get a special application for this? I would be even more interested in a rebuild kit for my stock carb. If I can keep this engine as original as possible that is a huge plus in my book. thanks.
I assumed that the 56 super 88 came with a Rochester 4 barrel. Am I right? I called JET performance in Huntington Beach CA and they weren't sure if this was the carb. But, if it is, they will rebuild it completely for 275$ plus shipping. This seems pretty good to me for a few reasons.
1. I cannot find any rebuild kits to do it myself.
2. I have never built a carb so starting with this one might be a little over my head.
3. I never paid for something like this before and I thought it would cost a lot more.
What do you all think about it?
1. I cannot find any rebuild kits to do it myself.
2. I have never built a carb so starting with this one might be a little over my head.
3. I never paid for something like this before and I thought it would cost a lot more.
What do you all think about it?
Pauly, that carb is probably some kind of Rochester I agree with you on that. I wouldn't use a carb for a chevy, float levels and choke settings could be way different even if the chevy used a similar carb, linkage might be different too depending on transmission appications.
'56 Carb
Hi Pauley,
If you can post a photo of the carb I think I would recognize the origional.
If you can't post it here you can email the pic to me.Too bad about the bogus
pic process here.I think more people would be interested in this web site if
they could post photos easily.
I would encourage you to try rebuilding your stock carb.It's not really
"Rocket Science",and the satisfaction you get will make you proud!You will
also retain the correct throttle pressure linkage(to the trans.).The trans.
may never shift properly again with modified linkage.
A carb. rebuild kit should not cost more than about $50 once you find one.
Try calling Murray at Plano Auto Supply on 14th St.He's an older guy who
don't mind trying to find old stuff for you.I'm sure you can find a carb kit.
I would buy a rebuildable carb like your stock one ($25-$45 on ebay) and
enjoy rebuilding it in your spare time.
$275 for a rebuild on the Left Coast? YIKES!!! (I think that's outrageous!)
Not bad for a one hour job that you could do yourself.
MickeyD
If you can post a photo of the carb I think I would recognize the origional.
If you can't post it here you can email the pic to me.Too bad about the bogus
pic process here.I think more people would be interested in this web site if
they could post photos easily.
I would encourage you to try rebuilding your stock carb.It's not really
"Rocket Science",and the satisfaction you get will make you proud!You will
also retain the correct throttle pressure linkage(to the trans.).The trans.
may never shift properly again with modified linkage.
A carb. rebuild kit should not cost more than about $50 once you find one.
Try calling Murray at Plano Auto Supply on 14th St.He's an older guy who
don't mind trying to find old stuff for you.I'm sure you can find a carb kit.
I would buy a rebuildable carb like your stock one ($25-$45 on ebay) and
enjoy rebuilding it in your spare time.
$275 for a rebuild on the Left Coast? YIKES!!! (I think that's outrageous!)
Not bad for a one hour job that you could do yourself.
MickeyD
Carb problem
Hey I forgot to say,please don't drive your car until you fix the gas leak!
That's a disaster just waiting to happen.
Is it leaking at the fittings where the fuel line attaches to the carb?
That's the usual place.If so,it's frequently the result of the fuel line being
removed and replaced many times over the years.The flare fitting gets
crushed and hardened over the years and can't make a seal.Cutting the
flare off and re-flaring the new end usually fixes it.Use a tubing cutter only
(no hacksaw)and make sure no metal particles are in the line when re-attaching to the carb.
Your carb may not need to be rebuilt at all if it runs and idles well.
That's plenty of carb for your engine in stock form.
I'm not positive but I was thinking that your engine came with a Carter
model WCFB carb on it.Do you see a name and model # on it,or maybe on
a small metal tag?
MickeyD
That's a disaster just waiting to happen.
Is it leaking at the fittings where the fuel line attaches to the carb?
That's the usual place.If so,it's frequently the result of the fuel line being
removed and replaced many times over the years.The flare fitting gets
crushed and hardened over the years and can't make a seal.Cutting the
flare off and re-flaring the new end usually fixes it.Use a tubing cutter only
(no hacksaw)and make sure no metal particles are in the line when re-attaching to the carb.
Your carb may not need to be rebuilt at all if it runs and idles well.
That's plenty of carb for your engine in stock form.
I'm not positive but I was thinking that your engine came with a Carter
model WCFB carb on it.Do you see a name and model # on it,or maybe on
a small metal tag?
MickeyD
well, actually the carb is leaking from the base. Not sure if it is the gasket or a internal problem. I am going to check the name tonight and I will post it. Possibly I will just remove it tonight and post some pics on my car domain site. I'll try giving Murray a call also, thanks.
I got it off and snapped a few shots. It is definetly a Rochester. Says so right where you can rich/lean it out. I put some pics on my car domain site on page 2. Check it out if you wish.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2338246/1
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2338246/1
Carb Problem
Hi Pauly,
I checked out the pic's of your carb on the other site.
Yep,definately a Rochester.
I was looking in an old Chiltons manual last night and it showed that
the Carter WCFB was used on '54 and '55. Strangely,there was no listing
for what carb was used in '56.They must have been unsure at press time.
That Rochester is likely the origional.
Looks like it may be leaking from the gasket at the parting line of the
float bowl(the center body of the carb) and the air horn(top section).
Use caution if you get adventurous and decide to disassemble it.
Most of us that have rebuilt carburetors in the past have had the learning
experience of taking the top off a carb,and the first time you turn it
on it's side,or upside down,a small steel check ball,and sometimes a very
small spring goes bouncing across the floor.OH NO....WHERE DID IT COME FROM! (and worse case,where is it now?).
Take your time and observe any small orifices that may have a check
ball hiding inside.Usually there is only one in the cylinder that the acceleration pump plunger occupys.Some carbs do have more than one
check ball inside under a removeable cover.
I think it's best to wait until you get a carb kit before you begin disassembly.You think you will remember where all the odd pieces go,
and you usually can...within 4 days.One month later and you can forget
remembering weird details(more like 2 days now for me!).Use your dig.
camera to record where all attachments fit before you take it apart.
A record pic of it sitting in place with linkage and hoses hooked up may
also help if it gets confusing later.
I'm back in the office today and have your manifolds if you want them.
MickeyD
I checked out the pic's of your carb on the other site.
Yep,definately a Rochester.
I was looking in an old Chiltons manual last night and it showed that
the Carter WCFB was used on '54 and '55. Strangely,there was no listing
for what carb was used in '56.They must have been unsure at press time.
That Rochester is likely the origional.
Looks like it may be leaking from the gasket at the parting line of the
float bowl(the center body of the carb) and the air horn(top section).
Use caution if you get adventurous and decide to disassemble it.
Most of us that have rebuilt carburetors in the past have had the learning
experience of taking the top off a carb,and the first time you turn it
on it's side,or upside down,a small steel check ball,and sometimes a very
small spring goes bouncing across the floor.OH NO....WHERE DID IT COME FROM! (and worse case,where is it now?).
Take your time and observe any small orifices that may have a check
ball hiding inside.Usually there is only one in the cylinder that the acceleration pump plunger occupys.Some carbs do have more than one
check ball inside under a removeable cover.
I think it's best to wait until you get a carb kit before you begin disassembly.You think you will remember where all the odd pieces go,
and you usually can...within 4 days.One month later and you can forget
remembering weird details(more like 2 days now for me!).Use your dig.
camera to record where all attachments fit before you take it apart.
A record pic of it sitting in place with linkage and hoses hooked up may
also help if it gets confusing later.
I'm back in the office today and have your manifolds if you want them.
MickeyD
I will give you a call today when I go on lunch break. I didn't mess with the carb too much for exactly that reason. I'm not gonna touch it till I get some sort of instructions. I did however draw a diagram of what it looks like all hooked up on the engine. So I know how to put it back on. I will talk to you later Mickey.
Pauly that looks like the Rochester 4GC carb, they are a square bore carb and very similar to the one on my son's '64 394 engine that we rebuilt. Listen to what MickeyD says, he's right. I recommend that you find a nice big pan, like a used square cookie pan, preferably an inch deep or more to disassemble the carb on. I scored about ten parts bins from a manufacturing place that are 24" by 18" and 2" deep made of some practically impervious material that looks like bakelite of some sort. Very good for that kind of job. If you can get by with it, do the job in the kitchen. usually they are cleaner and have better light and less junk on the floor. But watch out for the woman of the house!!!! Hey good luck on that, I think if you rebuild it you should be able to fix your leak, I agree with MickeyD that is most likely the gasket he described.
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