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I was checking the tuning of my rebuilt 2GC. I found a vacuum leak at the Choke Shaft seal. After removing the cover and spring, I found the following;
No baffle plate (figure 6M-63)
No plastic tube on choke actuating tang (figure 6M-65)
No felt seal on the choke shaft (figure 6M-64)
An additional used carb plus several rebuild kits came with the vehicle when purchased.
I used baffle from the used carb.
I installed the felt seal from a carb kit.
As for the plastic tube for the choke actuating tang - is that something that come with a carb rebuild kit? My used carb did not have one either.
Also, the smaller choke pipe from the intake manifold to the choke housing - does the end going to the manifold just slip in the whole? No flaring, etc?
I was checking the tuning of my rebuilt 2GC. I found a vacuum leak at the Choke Shaft seal. After removing the cover and spring, I found the following;
No baffle plate (figure 6M-63)
No plastic tube on choke actuating tang (figure 6M-65)
No felt seal on the choke shaft (figure 6M-64)
An additional used carb plus several rebuild kits came with the vehicle when purchased.
I used baffle from the used carb.
I installed the felt seal from a carb kit.
As for the plastic tube for the choke actuating tang - is that something that come with a carb rebuild kit? My used carb did not have one either.
Also, the smaller choke pipe from the intake manifold to the choke housing - does the end going to the manifold just slip in the whole? No flaring, etc?
A rebuilt component is only as good as the rebuilder. All are not equal. Rebuilders are in business to make money. If they can "cut corners" and still produce a carburetor that will "sort of" work, they will likely do it. For them "simpler" means "faster". You will notice that model number tags are almost always discarded.
All rebuilding kits are not equal. Some kits will state each item contained in the kit. Most will not.
The small tube from the choke to the manifold is a slip fit into the manifold. "Sealing" is not important for it to achieve its task. It's just a source of heated air to operate the choke coil.
You have the Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual. This is an important first step in understanding. The best you can do is to have a carburetor of the correct model for your engine, learn thoroughly how it operates, and do the rebuild yourself using the most comprehensive kit you can find and the guidelines provided by the manual.
Are you saying that after paying to have someone rebuild your carb you then had to do all the things you have listed? If so, I would be demanding a refund!
This is the document I am referring to. Under the Carburetor Assembly section it states "Be sure plastic tube is pressed on the choke actuating tang (fig 6M-65)"
Last edited by Turnpike; Oct 24, 2017 at 09:51 PM.
This is the document I am referring to. Under the Carburetor Assembly section it states "Be sure plastic tube is pressed on the choke actuating tang (fig 6M-65)"
Here's a bit of a quandary. I looked for that plastic tube part in the Rochester carburetor parts manual. I don't see it for any of the 2GC carburetors used between 1967 & 1969. The image makes it look like a smooth tube. That image showing the tube does not appear in the 1967 CSM. It would contact the end of the choke coil, and probably is not crucial for acceptable performance. If it's not in your rebuilding kit, and you would still like to have it, you could probably substitute a small length of appropriately sized tubing.
What image? There isn't any image showing the tube. The picture on the page that the OP attached is the CHOKE SHAFT (read the caption), not the vacuum tube in question.
Every GM integral choke housing for hot air chokes uses this same tube. It has been included in every single carb rebuild kit I've ever bought.
This is the document I am referring to. Under the Carburetor Assembly section it states "Be sure plastic tube is pressed on the choke actuating tang (fig 6M-65)"
