I am replacing the rubbers on my vent windows on my 1968 cutlass S.
It seems the best way to take the vent window out is to take out the phillips screw at the top of the vent window to open the frame and slide the glass out. First the hinge has to be disconnected on the front of the vent frame. I want to drill out the two rivets holding the bracket for the vent window pivot so I do not disturb the actual chrome rivet that the window pivots on. My question is:

Can I use regular rivets to attach the bracket back to the front of the frame or will it mushroom to much and interfere with the new rubber seal?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks ...Todd

 

Todd,

I don't remember exactly what I did but I replaced everything and didn't have to drill out any of the rivets. I remember I wanted to replace the glass in one and I had to slide the glass out of the frame. I was surprised that the only thing that held it in was the caulking

 

It needs to come out as the bottom piece that the regulator attaches to has to go through the new rubber.

 

The vent window will pop out without removing any rivets. I know it doesn't seem like it will but I remember having to rotate the window open all the way, pushing the vent window down hard, and then slightly forcing the frame open a little and the window popped out. Getting the window back in was a little harder because the new seal really had to be compressed on the bottom to push the window back in at the top. I know all I had to remove was the screws. I'll take a look at a spare frame I have later this morning

 

Todd,

I just took this vent window out exactly the way I described above. The only difference is I removed the top screw that connected the outside window frame at the top of the "V". It allows the frame to slight spring to give you a little more room:

 

OK so you had to take out the rivet where the window pivots. I want to leave that rivet and take out the two that hold the bracket for that rivet on the frame. What did you use to connect the pivot point again?

 

Todd,

I sent you a PM with my phone number. Give me a call. It's easier to explain over the phone

 

Todd,

I found this over at Performance Years. It looks like he removed the rivets the same as you are planning to:

http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...al+replacement

http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...al+replacement

And for anyone else that's reading this Todd has a post car which is a totally different wing window than a hardtop or convertible

 

Mike thanks for this I really appreciate it. It confirms that my logic of how to proceed with this is correct. I always like to get at least one other opinion on the matter before trying something I have never done. I actually do not think it is going to be that big of a deal as some have suggested. I will keep you posted and post my results....Todd

 

Replacing the Rubbers on a 1968 Cutlass S Post Car Front Vent Window.

OK I removed the screw at the top of the vent window (triangle) and opened the window half way. I moved the now loose frame over a little (off center) to gain better access to the 2 rivets holding the pivot bracket to the front of the triangle frame. I drilled these out using a drill bit slightly smaller than the rivet, in doing so I could then pry the top of the rivet out with a flat screw driver after drilling the back of the rivet, without disturbing the original size of the hole. (NOTE I do NOT drill out the stainless pivot rivet ONLY the 2 rivets holding the bracket to the frame). Now you can remove the vent window. I first put the flat rubber seal in along the back of the triangle and used a flat screw driver to bend the tabs over in place, later tapping them with a punch and small hammer. I then used vasoline and lubed up the rubber to be installed in the triangular frame. Using a small boxed end wrench I ran it along the inside channel to push the rubber into place at the bottom of the triangle. (This is a bitch) Make sure you get the rubber seal as far forward into the lower front of the triangle as this is vital for proper fit. Along the front of the triangle I used a small flat screw driver to carefully push the sides of the rubber into the track. (pretty easy) I then replaced the small phillips screw at the top of the frame to make it more secure. You need to look at the bottom of the triangle frame where the glass stem that attaches to the regulator goes in and see that there is a slot that needs to be align with the window for it to seat all the way to the bottom. Window should go in from the outside of the triangle. Once the window is in place secure the bracket with the phillips screw that attaches the frame to the post of the door, this will keep the bracket in place while you install the 2 screws to hold the bracket in place. I used regular rivets at first, this will not work as it pushes the rubber away from the frame to much. I then used very short stove bolts and small flat nuts on the inside of the frame. It is tricky to do but not impossible. Peel back the rubber at the bracket section of the frame and using a small screw driver to get it into place put the nut over the hole for the bracket. I used a rivet stem to align the nut from the other side. Then I put my finger on the nut to hold it in place while removing the rivet stem. Now place the screw into the hole and tighten down. Repeat for other bracket hole, then push rubber back into place. The rubber will not fit perfectly because of the nuts but it is very close. If you want it perfect follow the same procedure using flat rivets. I am not sure where to buy them but I'm sure someone must make them. I hope this helps, if you have any questions feel free to contact me.

Todd toddvcarroll@hotmail.com