this look ok for the rear....finned rear drums ok instead of standard? had to switch some parts from what I wanted to combine the shipping from the same place.

1967 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 5.4L 330cid V8Brake/Wheel Hub : Drum Brake Hardware KitRelated PartsWAGNER Part # H7008 {#F78513S} Combi Kit (Only 16 Remaining)
9-1/2 x 2" Brake; RearA$5.05$10.10Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel CylinderRelated PartsRAYBESTOS Part # WC37024 {#2037024} Professional Grade
Rear; Front Drum Brakes; Rear Drum BrakesB$4.39$8.78Brake/Wheel Hub : DrumRelated PartsRAYBESTOS Part # 2091R {#102091, 2091} Outside Diameter 12.02" / 5 Bolts / Finned Professional Grade
Rear; Front Disc Brakes; Rear Drum BrakesB$28.79$57.58Brake/Wheel Hub : Brake ShoeRelated PartsMONROE Part # BX245 Bonded; 9.5 in. x 2 in.
Rear; w/ 9.50 x 2.00 Brakes

 

went ahead, and Allan R...took your advice after seeing for myself what you were saying about shipping from different locations in re: Rock Auto. narrowed stuff down to 2 locations and got a much more realistic shipping cost. got most of the rear brake parts coming...just need the lines.

after that gets done, start collecting parts for the front....control arms, bushing kits, ball joints, then the power disc conversion kit and wheels and tires to fit. can't do one without almost all of it since each thing depends on the next to be able to put it back down on the ground when done.

 

Glad it worked out. First time I went to order from RA I didn't know about the charges from different warhouses so the total was 2x higher than parts just for shipping. Then I got it figured out. Did you apply the RA discount coupon? They are posted as 'stickys' on CO.

For brake lines. One of 2 things. Make your own (cheapest). Or buy them. If you are looking for really decent brake lines, check out In Line Tube. I bought a complete set of lines from them for my 72 and they are spot on.

 

Thanx!!! will check out In Line tube for sure!!!!

 

got a line locally on some tubular a-arms that accept all the stock components. I am considering using those as price wise, I will spend about the same if not more in getting used arms and then replacing all the parts. i can get these with all new bushings and ball joints for $275.

 

Sounds good. From what you've already described for the project, going with tubular and cost effective parts is just plain smart. Look forward to the pics when you buy them and install. LOL, your son is getting his car made into a race car....

 

thanx!!! not race car...econo car!!!! lol!!!!! right now it's all about saving as much money as I can without skimping on safety. the parts will soon start to build up and eventually get to getting his hands dirty again.

 

this is them and even comes with heim joints for the front sway bar. assuming I have one...have to look!!! lol

 

Very nice! I love working with new parts. Wish I'd thought of that when I did my car. Oh well, maybe the next one.

 

agreed. once I get these, will start saving for the front disc brake kit which will also be all new so it will be nice putting it back together.

 

picked up the front a arm set a guy was selling locally. i figured up the prices and I would indeed have spent more on buying used a arms and then outfitting them with new ball joints and the bushing kits.

has the ball joints already installed, all new bushings and bump stop and Heim joints for the sway bar end links. can't beat this. also provides some positive camber for better handling.
oh, and there are grease fittings everywhere you would want them. I love that!!!!!!!!!

here they are:

this is one of the uppers

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this is one of the lowers

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Looks like a winning combo. When my son was in High School, we built him a 67 442, four speed car. I was driving it one day and topped a hill and there was a box van stopped right in front of me. I hit the brakes and the car dove hard to the right . I recovered it and when I got home, I ordered a disk brake kit. Best thing we ever did to the car.

 

thanx for sharing that. I agree. If nothing else, I want the car to be as safe as I am able to make it for him to drive.

saving now for the complete kit, however, I may have to buy it in "sections". time will tell.

 

Those lower control arms look great. One word of advice, never, never buy anything from Helix Suspension. Their stuff is Chinese junk, don't ask how I know.

 

thanx for that information. I do not know who manufactured these for fact, but the guy who I purchased them from said it was the same as sold on Summitt.

went ahead and looked up Summit's...looks exactly lie what I got and they call it Right Stuff control arms. never heard of them. hopefully they are least of decent quality.

 

Right Stuff is a good company and will stand behind their products. They are also professional on the phone according to folks I've talked with. Solid support and advice for problems you may encounter with the build.

BTW - nice new avatar

 

Thanx Allan! Nice to know about the a arm company and thanx for the avatar comment. That is my other project which happens to also be my daily driver. I took the pic and it is my favorite I have taken of the car since I have it closer to being done.

 

hopefully one day next week, picking up the next project (hope I am not getting ahead of myself...too many projects but too many children to satisfy!!!!) picking up a 1971 4dr Buick Sklyark sedan...350, 2brl, auto. A/c, power steering, no power brakes (gotta fix that part) and a good driver at the moment. one issue....guy who owns it, had a stroke while installing the wiper motor and the wipers don't work. looks like some wires hanging so I need to get a photo or something showing how it is supposed to be wired. it is raining like crazy down here and when I pick it up, need for them to work!!!!

this car is for my middle daughter who, after sitting in the Cutlass told me she wanted an old car...she loves the smell (yea..really?) and the bench seat. so on a hunt I went and hopefully this car will be all right. allegedly 133k and the original owner (will be checking that out). definitely a better driver at the moment than the Cutlass.

 

the Skylark in it's natural habitat (the day we picked it up):

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then at home:

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the Happy Girl:

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It looks pretty solid. What's the plan for this one?

 

it's got a few rust issues that I have seen. nothing major so far. Plan is for it to stay pretty much stock...that is what she wants. I need to upgrade the drum brakes to power in the front and then mainly replacement stuff like shocks, a/c fan switch, one hubcap, glove box liner, already replaced a window crank and needs a gas pedal. so will not be modifying the car the way we will the Cutlass. Most of my time and money (what little I have for this) will be for the Cutlass.

The Skylark runs good...350 2brl but it goes!!! A/c works but the fan switch is gone and the owner had put in a toggle switch to turn it on and it only goes on low....not good down here for cooling down an interior.

has a cd radio in it that they hacked up the radio bezel to install..urrgggg!!!

drove it about 2 hours home, so not bad for what it is.

 

back on track with the Olds. the Buick didn't pan out for my daughter after all. wound up getting her a 2002 Lancer she wanted, did some stuff to that and now back to the Cutlass.

got the power brake booster installed today for the power disc brake conversion upcoming. took longer that I had hoped. had to remove the hood in order to get to the two drivers side mounting bolts. hopefully in two saturdays......friend is coming over to help me tackle the front suspension and the disc brake conversion. want to do it all at once. once that is done, get the back brakes freshened up, then hopefully couple of things to get her rollin again.

 

oh, thinking about getting a Holley 2 brl carb to replace the worn out rochester on it now. any thoughts or experience with that from anyone on here. thanx.

 

no thoughts out there on the holley? oh well, in the meantime..we tried tackling the front suspension in the driveway. got everything loose on the passenger side, but I could not get the car up high enough safely to get the coil spring out. forgot how long those things are on these cars...used to my mustang. so down it went with everything semi reattached. had already ordered new front shocks to put it, but didn't without getting the rest of the parts in. got to go to a plan b on that...

ordered a new gas tank, new straps and new strap insulators today. still going to order the sending unit for the tank and a set of control arms and rear sway bar kit for the rear to renew the back end and give it a little better, vis a vis 442, handling with the rear sway bar. visual from the back will be better as well.

also picked up a set of used 15" aluminum rims and tires. the front tires were good, back not. put new on the back. will install those and get rid of those 14"ers.

 

car at the shop for the suspension I was unable to do. meantime, here is the wheel/tire setup in prep for the power front disc brake conversion.

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been awhile, but here is the latest update.

all right, here we go. went over today to give the shop the tie rod ends. I could have done them at home, but decided to go ahead and let them finish off the front end and be done with it.

so, up front: tubular control arms complete with ball joints, polyurethane bushings; hiem joints for the front sway bar end links; power disc brake conversion with GM calipers and rotors.

in the rear: lower control arms are 442 style boxed control arms waiting for an upgraded 1" rear sway bar (not yet ordered).

also coming up: rear air shocks to provide some help to the springs and to adjust the rear ride height for a slight rake; I have used upper control arms coming that I will be installing new bushings in and having them boxed for more rigidity, then they will go in.

Exhaust: 3" flowmaster system with Thrush mufflers. I had to go 3" since it was the only kit for the car I could find. I could find 2.5" rear pipes, but not the entire h-pipe kit. looks funny up front with the 2" pipes feeding the 3" system. eventually some new exhaust manifolds will go on that will allow, I think, 2.5" downpipe to get closer to the rest of the system.

finally, new gas tank with new straps and isolators.


on with the pics:

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all for now folks!!!

 

Looking good, I would suggest to forgo the airshocks for new springs and a good set of HD gas shocks.

 

I was considering that, and still am, as the right rear pipe is close to the shock now. I am not sure the air shock will even fit in there now. the air shock was just a simpler way out and less expensive.

 

The expense is not much more for springs and good set of shocks, probably $30-40.
Springs
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,7512
Shocks
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,7556

 

sorry for the delay...too many projects to do between my car, my daughter's car and this one. 5.3 vortec delivered Friday (I think) and also a 4L60E trans to go with it. working right now on replacing the vent window latch on the driver side. it is gone so nothing to compare to as far as the order and positioning of the wave washer and the "O" ring. went to take off the passenger side so I could see what goes where and to replace it also. the roll pin only has one way in and out from what I can see. what is the procedure to getting that out? anyone know the order of the "O" ring and wave washer and which way the wave washer is supposed to face? thanx for any input.

next up, new ignition switch, door locks and trunk lock. driver door doesn't open from the outside by the lock mechanism. everything else just to freshen up. not sure if any tricks to any of these. I assume the outer ring on the ignition switch unscrews and allows it to be removed.

will post some pics as the transplant takes place.

 

Glad to see you guys are still at it.

 

Thanx!!!! also looking for a quick ratio steering box for it.

 

all right. hopefully things are going to start happening. Have the 5.3 Vortec motor, 4L60E trans, motor mounts, frame mounts, adapters for the motor mounts, CTS-V oil pan (on it's way), JGC steering box. car goes into the shop tomorrow for the transplant. still have to get the fuel pressure regulator, gauge and fuel pump. have the fittings already for the regulator. also need the rag joint and I think I know which one to get. going to try to get some pics as things happen and post them up. exciting to get this close to making this a better DD. already replaced the ignition switch (worn badly) and both door locks (driver side never did work when we got it.)

already done and noted prior, whole front suspension is done (tubular control arms, heim joint front sway bar end links; new shocks, tie rod ends, idler arm along with the power disc brake upgrade done; rear brakes done; rear 442 lower control arms done. have a set of upper control arms I am going to replace the bushings with and have them boxed for strength and going to get the 1" rear sway bar. still need rear shocks. 3" exhaust aleady in; wheels and tires done.

 

So the chubby motor is for the Oldsmobile, that's too bad!

Gene

 

I understand what you are saying. If the car was going to be mine, then I would have probably rebuilt the 330 2brl with upgrades in performance. however, my son is not really that much of a car guy. he really likes the idea of the older car, but needs something that he can just turn the key and drive. modern fi motors are the way to go with that. the LS are as plentiful as any and are well supported. the 4sp tranny will provide better fuel economy while also increasing driveability. should look pretty cool under the hood too!!!

 

car at the shop. CTS-V pan came today and the coupler (rag joint) for the JGC box. getting there.

 

next up, have to get the aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, gauge and a walbro 255 external pump ordered. will probably do that next week.

 

I am really enjoying this project, just sold my '66 F-85 Deluxe sedan....love those 4-door projects!

 

thank you!!! I think it will be a fun car when done.

 

temp install of the motor and tranny to check for fit and other parts needed. overall, not bad fit. linkage for the tranny all set, tranny mount and cross member good. exhaust manifolds hit; found bracket to use for the alternator and power steering..need a different pump though. fuel pressure regulator part of the fuel system on the motor, so don't need that. need radiator. fan from donor engine fine as is the shroud from the original olds radiator. a few pics from today.

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