I have a 97 deville that I drive probably once a month with 76,000 miles. About two months ago I drove it and try letting down all four windows and none of them worked. I went to the wrecking yard my guy put in a different window switch, and relay fuse the one under the hood still didn't work. Any help is appreciate.

 

Sounds like a short or the wire isn't connected.

The the other windows work on the other door switches? Any rust on the connections for the switches? Ground still good on the switch?

 

You might have to pull the door panels and check for power and ground at the window motors when activating the switches.
If power and ground are present ,then the window motors are faulty and need replacing.
Also , those under hood fuse blocks are prone to corrosion!!

 

Assuming the circuit breaker under the hood is good (which was replaced).........

Does this have a sunroof? If so does it work? Are you measuring any voltage on the pink wire to the window switch?
If NO to any, check the delayed accessory relay (DAR) that is under the driver door sill plate, taped up in the harness. This allows the windows to work during RAP (retained accessory power) mode after the key is turned off and no door is opened. The radio, cluster, and other stuff is RAP controlled but by different relays.

Power comes from the circuit breaker, through the DAR, and to the window switch and where it distributes to all windows.
The pink also feeds to the sunroof so if you have one and it works, then the DAR is not the issue.

To test the DAR, you can pull it and short across the big red and pink wires and see if the windows work. If so either the DAR is bad or worse yet, the BCM (body control module) as it controls it. If the latter, I would make a permanent short across the DAR contacts.


Easy, huh?

 

the car doesn't have a sunroof. The windows will not go down regardless of which window I try from. I don't know if there is any rust or if the ground is still good on switches.

 

I would check the wiring harness running into the drivers door. Look inside the rubber conduit that runs between the drivers door & the car body. Many a time I've looked in there to find a broken wire or 2 on different cars.

 

You need a volt meter and start chasing electrons. I neeed to see where you are losing 12V...

 

X2 I also have found many with a broken wire here. Caused by the wires flexing from opening and closing the door. I have found so many that it is now the 1st place I look.

 

I agree the wire harness between the hindge post and door inside the boot is a very common place for a broken wire. Sometimes you can get a test light into to the area just next to the ebrake and test it there and then on the side by the switch on the door.

 

Look like you was right rcrac3r. I took my car to a shop yesterday for testing. He said I have a bad wire, and it will take about 1 1/2 to 2 hours to fix it because the driver door has to be removed. He even got the driver window to roll down I started smiling. Is this something I can fix easily or should I just let him do it?

 

Ask if he will let you be his tool jockey. That way you can learn how to do it yourself next time.